[griffedi]

ok, way out of my comfort zone here so looking for advice..

I am interested in finding people or reference material to assist in valuing a 69 spider roundtail.

I have not yet looked at the car but by description it is a 20 yr old professional restore in vgc.

Assuming no major issues, what's it worth?

What key areas should I look at closely to determine whether to offer on it? I have much more experience with British Sports cars to date.

I saw an estimated value via Hagerty are those usually pretty close?

thanks from an Alfa owner wannabe.

 

[Norseman50]

Hi griffedi,
I would say that rust in the lower extremities (floor pans, spare tire well, etc.), especially in the rocker panels is the biggest concern. After that, issues with the actuation components (engine, gearbox) will be the most difficult or costly to fix. Everything else (interior/exterior cosmetics/aesthetics, electrical gremlins) are easy and somewhat enjoyable to repair.
Hope the one you're looking at works out for you,

 

[Wille R.]

Here is a link with a buyer's guide. Buy a Duetto #1 Then if you buy the Alfa welcome to join the Duetto Register

 

[Alfajay]

I saw an estimated value via Hagerty are those usually pretty close?

Why don't you post the Hagerty numbers and ask our opinions on that?

"Sports Car Market's" 2015 price guide gives a range of $22 - $37K for a '69 roundtail. I'd say that range sounds pretty accurate.

 

[red69]

A US '69 came with Spica mechanical fuel injection. Many have been converted to webers, which are a fine alternative, but not original. The Spica system works great when set up correctly, but very expensive ($1000+) to rebuild/replace when worn. Check for gas smell in oil and do some research on this site.

 

[ossodiseppia]

The information you have provided is not sufficient. One man's idea of a restoration is different from another's. Was it a nut and bolt restoration? Was it restored to stock appearance? Does it have the original displacement engine? There are lots of factors that affect the value of the car. Even though the car was restored 20 years ago, if it wasn't done right, it could be a rusty car.

Some pictures might help folks tell you if the car was restored to original condition. Some may be able to assess the quality of the body work. Your best bet is to have an Alfa wrench inspect the car.

 

[griffedi]

The information you have provided is not sufficient. One man's idea of a restoration is different from another's. Was it a nut and bolt restoration? Was it restored to stock appearance? Does it have the original displacement engine? There are lots of factors that affect the value of the car. Even though the car was restored 20 years ago, if it wasn't done right, it could be a rusty car.

Some pictures might help folks tell you if the car was restored to original condition. Some may be able to assess the quality of the body work. Your best bet is to have an Alfa wrench inspect the car.

Absolutely the word restoration means many things. but, as said, I have not yet looked at the car and thus far I am asking just for tips on how to evaluate what is or isn't there.

If it passes what evaluation I might perform, I will then have it looked at by an Alfa mechanic/expert.
Thanks for all of hte info thus far.

 

[ossodiseppia]

The best way to proceed is by posting some pictures for the community to look at. Trust me, it will get picked at.

 

[Dr.G]

Brian, nobody would pick at yours

 

[wenpri]

Agree with previous posts on rust issues and mechanical issues. I saw a running 69 1 year ago for $5000. Totally unrestored but solid and COMPLETE! Missing parts are a real headache: Even if you find out what they are, how they are installed can be a big problem. For instance, I have the helper springs for raising the top but don't know how they are supposed to be installed. Asked for pictures a few weeks ago but so far no replies.

 

[Norseman50]

I have the helper springs for raising the top but don't know how they are supposed to be installed. Asked for pictures a few weeks ago but so far no replies.

Hi wenpri,

Have you looked through the convertible top installation manual?

Here's a link to a copy:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/33541-convertible-top-install-instructions.html

 

[ossodiseppia]

Agree with previous posts on rust issues and mechanical issues. I saw a running 69 1 year ago for $5000. Totally unrestored but solid and COMPLETE! Missing parts are a real headache: Even if you find out what they are, how they are installed can be a big problem. For instance, I have the helper springs for raising the top but don't know how they are supposed to be installed. Asked for pictures a few weeks ago but so far no replies.

See attachments. The articulating portion (red arrow) should have a post on it (not pictured). The spring needs to be sleeved so that is does not catch on the convertible top fabric.

Hi wenpri,

Have you looked through the convertible top installation manual?

Here's a link to a copy:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/33541-convertible-top-install-instructions.html

This is not applicable to the round tail spider.

 

[wenpri]

Osso and Norseman: Thanks for the reply. The installation guide is for a Kamback and dosen't show springs. The point on the top frame indicated by Osso are what I had concluded must be the attachment points. However, I used these to attach the window opening tension cables. Is there another location for these? Can I presume that one would use a bolt and 2 nuts to fix a projection for the spring to hook onto?

 

[ossodiseppia]

Osso and Norseman: Thanks for the reply. The installation guide is for a Kamback and dosen't show springs. The point on the top frame indicated by Osso are what I had concluded must be the attachment points. However, I used these to attach the window opening tension cables. Is there another location for these? Can I presume that one would use a bolt and 2 nuts to fix a projection for the spring to hook onto?

The cables mount to the frame, not the chassis. You should see a pinch "bolt". It has a rectangular head that goes in the hole I've pointed to in the picture. The screw has a hole in it for the cable. A nut and washer go on the screw to "pinch" the cable.

 

[tirefriar]

In addition to items mentioned earlier, the nose crest or nose hump is pretty important. The original one was extremely hard to reproduce when smashed so when you see a Series 1 with a flattened fron panel you can bet the car was smacked in the front. Make sure to inspect it in the air. Check for condition of the brake lines - replace if rusty but that's not a big deal.

 

[Dr.G]

Number of sales 1 Highest sale $62,457
Average sales value $62,457 Lowest sale $62,457
Auction Results For 2015 Results Auction
1967 Alfa Romeo 1600 Spider Duetto
Chassis Num: 665440 AR $62,457 (€54,832) 2015 Artcurial


Here is a most recent auction from Paris.

 

[Dr.G]

http://www.artcurial.com/en/asp/fullCatalogue.asp?salelot=2651+++++105+&refno=10517385

 

[tirefriar]

The nose is very hard to get correct, but there is a replacement panel that can be welded in. It has been a source of great pain since it's introduction in regards to parking anywhere on the street.
I've owned a 69 since 1975. What is really the best part of owning them now, is all the reproduction parts available, and the help from nice people on the Alfabb.
We didn't have all the parts in the 70's and 80's, and had to make do. You should really post pictures because there are snipers, but you learn from them too.

Of course, this is repairable - see the current Series1resto thread. However it's not a simple repair that will require very good welding and body repair skills. It will also require refinishing all panels in front of the doors. The fear of my Spider's perfect nose being deformed by some dope backing up into it kept me from daily driving it. :frown2: