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Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to get title for my 1965 GT coupe, I bought it some time ago without title nor a bill of sale. I am in the process of scheduling an appointment with my local Highway Patrol office to verify the identity of the car. My question is, where besides the firewall is the vin number? It appears my car has only 1 location with the vin number. Something to consider, the car was sitting outdoors in the east coast, so nameplates or things attached to the car are not there.
I will be posting more questions as I begin to re-construct the GT.
Thanks.
 

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Should be stamped into the firewall on the passenger's side, a few inches off center and a couple inches below the hood surface.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1965 GT vin number

Thank you. So, there is no where else on the car which displays the vin number? Just the firewall? Only in one location? Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you. So, there is no where else on the car which displays the vin number? Just the firewall? Only in one location? Thanks again.
 

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Normally yes.
A 1969 or later US car will have it on a plastic plate in the door jamb and on a tab in the windshield, but they didn't introduce those requirements in the US til 1968.
ANdrew
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Would you recommend to upgrade the braking system or should I try to build it using original equipment. I've heard upgrading the brakes on the early cars is a definite must do.
 

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I say to each his own. There are a couple issues. Dunlop brakes currently? I don't like them, and have never been good at getting them working right, but some folks do OK with them. I drove a 66 Duetto last year with Dunlops that were fine, but my own Dunlop experiences have been bad.

A lot of folks swap in dual systems and larger calipers for more safety and braking.

ATEs to me are way better, on a normal use car I would swap Dunlops for ATEs. Whether to go with a dual circuit is another question, kind of up to you on how much safety you want to build in, how much braking you want, how much you have to spend.

Andrew
 

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You should try to keep your car as original as possible.In my opinion you should stay with Dunlop brakes..The GTA uses Dunlop with no issues and the parts are available from Alfastop in the UK.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you. What about suspension, for instance, control arms, or a-arms. I have heard that some suspension components need to be upgraded also
 

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There's also the chassis number (Remember, these things pre date the 17 digit VIN system) stamped in the boot lid channel (trunk) just below the rear window, about 6" to the left of centre.
Brakes depends on what you want to do with the car - if you want to use it alot, and drive it quickly, I'd put the dunlop setup off to one side and fit 2l ATE brakes (and LSD rear axle).
 

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You would be lucky to find the chassis number in the boot/trunk lid
channel on an early car! Have you sent your number to Marco Fazio ?
[email protected]
Re: suspension an adjustable top arm is a good upgrade, helps with getting the front camber right.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes I have contacted Marco. The build is going to be a mildly modified 1600 (original) engine. But, I was concerned about the brakes and suspension. Moreover the brakes, because I have heard that parts availability and pricing can be a challenge.
 

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Yes I have contacted Marco. The build is going to be a mildly modified 1600 (original) engine. But, I was concerned about the brakes and suspension. Moreover the brakes, because I have heard that parts availability and pricing can be a challenge.
I converted to ATE at a time when there was only one source for Dunlop front discs, and they were in the order of 4 times the cost of ATE discs. I honestly don't know if it's much better now.

Suspension - apart from the adjustable upper arms and the changes in the front uprights in the later cars, there's no real difference between early and late cars - some will bang on about the 4 bolt cross members of the later cars, but it makes no difference on a road car really.
 

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A 65 Sprint Gt was my second Alfa. Cost me $500 and I drove it as a daily driver for many years. Dunlop brakes were fine. These old Stepnose cars are moving up in value, so I would leave it stock.

I gotta say, though, I threw away a parts car that looked just like yours because it was as rusty as yours appears. Before you spend a dime on it, I'd assess the body from top to bottom. No point in building a motor and sorting out the running gear if it's just going to yank out of a rusty structure.
 
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