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Hi I recently bought a 1960 Alfa Giulietta Sprint.

Does anyone know which oils are recommended for all mechanical parts? Engine, Gearbox & Diff (if there are anything else you recommend changing please let me know). Also what coolant type?

Thanks

1635822
 

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Hi David

Welcome to the BB, nice Sprint, I see she's had a facelift to resemble a Series I

OK, engine oil --> You want an oil with a ZDDP Zinc content... there are so many recommendations for so many oils out there, but what you don't want is a new oil for a modern car without Zinc additives. It depends on where you are in the world as to what brands you can get. I use a Castrol GTX for older engines out here or a Castrol Classic.

Gearbox - > That very much depends on what synchro's you have in the box, the early brass synchro's absolutely have to have a NON-EP oil like GL1 (Back in the day the brand was Shell Dentax). The later black synchro's can use an EP Additive Molybdenum (Moly) oil. Don't use EP oil with the early synchro's

Rear axle --> I use 80W/90 EP oil in mine, never had a problem

Radiator --> I run Evans Waterless Coolant in mine, there's lot of opinions on this, but its working just fine for me. I did drill several additional 1/4" holes in the thermostat

For normal driving the above has worked well for me on my road cars

Ciao
Greig
 

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Hi Phil

I live in a warm tropical climate & 28 years ago I had a thermostat fail in the closed position which cost me a head gasket on my 1300 GTJ, so ever since then I've always drilled 4 or 6 holes in any thermostat I've ever fitted. No science to it, thermostats usually have enough space to drill two or three 1/4 holes per side. Obviously when the thermostat opens as it gets warm, then normal circulation occurs. Yes it takes a bit longer to warm up, not an issue in my climate. For me the plus is that even if the thermostat fails circulation will still occur.

Evans is thick stuff, like molasses when cold, so a little slower to pass through the tiny holes when cold, but when warm the viscosity changes and it's thin like water. Like I said there are 2 camps with Evans, those for and those against, I've been very happy with it in my cars. Prior to Evans I ran Aqua-Clear.

I also run silicone brake fluid in all our classics with hydraulic brakes, never had a problem.

Ciao
Greig
 

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Greig, we should point out that you can't just put silicone (DOT5) brake fluid in place of the regular DOT 3 or 4 fluid. Both stuffs can't be mixed, you have to start with a clean circuit and new seals. But I agree that the regular fluid, being hygroscopic (catches moisture and becomes corrosive) is far from ideal for our classics.
 

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Absolutely correct Yves & I've written the procedure up several times on different threads here - A quick search for Bel Ray DOT 5 which is the brand I use brings up these threads where I have commented and explained the procedure of how I rebuild my braking systems to accept Silicone DOT 5 --> Search results for query: Bel Ray DOT 5

A word of caution to all: DOT 5 and DOT 5.1 are NOT the same thing, DOT 5.1 is just ordinary DOT 4 mineral fluid which has been formulated to have a higher boiling point for modern applications

What is the difference between DOT 5 and DOT 5.1 brake fluid?
Since DOT 4 and 5.1 are both glycol-based brake fluids they are compatible with each other, which means they can be readily mixed without harming your brake system. It is important never to mistake DOT 5.1 (glycol-based) with DOT 5 which is silicone-based and should never be mixed with any other DOT fluid.


Finally cleanliness is next to Godliness when dealing with brake systems, decades ago the local Mercedes Benz assembly line discarded 400 ABS units after a line contamination. Their lab determined that 0.04% of mineral oil in your brake fluid is enough to destroy all the rubbers in the system. (Rubbers swell & get spongy), so don't rebuild brakes with dirty hands

Ciao
Greig
 

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Hi Phil

I live in a warm tropical climate & 28 years ago I had a thermostat fail in the closed position which cost me a head gasket on my 1300 GTJ, so ever since then I've always drilled 4 or 6 holes in any thermostat I've ever fitted. No science to it, thermostats usually have enough space to drill two or three 1/4 holes per side. Obviously when the thermostat opens as it gets warm, then normal circulation occurs. Yes it takes a bit longer to warm up, not an issue in my climate. For me the plus is that even if the thermostat fails circulation will still occur.

Evans is thick stuff, like molasses when cold, so a little slower to pass through the tiny holes when cold, but when warm the viscosity changes and it's thin like water. Like I said there are 2 camps with Evans, those for and those against, I've been very happy with it in my cars. Prior to Evans I ran Aqua-Clear.

I also run silicone brake fluid in all our classics with hydraulic brakes, never had a problem.

Ciao
Greig
Hi Greig,Thanks for explaining why the 1/4" holes in the thermostat,makes sense for a SA vehicle and probably for one in Georgia USA too,pretty warm here.I've heard of Evans,but haven't looked into it,I will now.Regards,Phil
 

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Hi Greig
David was seeking advice for a Giulietta.
Would you change any of your recommendations if the car was a 101 Giulia?
Regards, Mick
 

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Wouldn't change a thing Mick

The Giulia 101's gained a 5th gear over the Giulietta's but they still used the early synchro's, so no change in tranny oil, they still need GL1.

Ciao
Greig
 
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