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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, new to the forum. I am looking at a car in Canada which was advertised as a 1968 1750 GTV with chassis number AR 1530953. It is now red with a black interior. Inspection reveals is was once green and I e-mailed Marco who informed me that this vehicle was manufacturered Feb 1970 and brought in through Newark. It appears to be a series one car but has dual brake servos, weber carbs, the smaller rear brake lenses and no outriders. I am confused on whether the chassis number is truly series 1. Marco stated the information on what chassis number represented the transition between series 1 and 2 is not available. I just want to get an impression on how pure the vehicle is to its original state. Is this a true series 1 car? Which engine number should be found under the bonnet of this vehicle? Many thanks in advance, Steve.
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP
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Welcome, Steve.

1530953 would be a 1969 model year Series 1 USA version 1750 GTV. Although Alfa assigned chassis numbers 1530001-1532000 to the Series 1 cars, only 1232 were produced.
The dual servos, small rear lenses and no outriders are correct but the Weber carbs are not. The original engine, type 00551, was fitted with Spica fuel injection at the factory.
Can you post some pictures?
 

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Jim,

How late into 1970 did Alfa continue to build the "69" GTV?

And yes, welcome to the BB, Steve! If there's anything you want to know about a 69 GTV, Jim's the one to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the quick reply gentlemen. I'm on the road working at the moment but will post pictures over the next 2 days when I return home.

Steve
 

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Steve, is this car in Toronto? If so I can provide good feedback.
 

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Jim,
How late into 1970 did Alfa continue to build the "69" GTV?
Good question! And one that only a look at the relevant page in Alfas production records could answer. One might logically conclude that the last chassis number, 1531232, was the last chassis built and simply email the Archives in Italy for the build date. Thing is, Alfa did not always build vehicles in numerical sequence. For all we know, 1530708, also built in 1970, was the last chassis built.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pictures 1750 GTV

Hello,

GTA Alfa: interestingly this car was brought from Ontario about 6-7 years ago but was originally a California car (so I'm told). It was sold to the present owner in Edmonton.

Here are some pictures of the car:
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP
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Yep. Series 1 alright (1969 model year).
And a pretty good looker at that!
 

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Yep, and those those beauty seats are definately the best seats Alfa ever made for the GTV.
Although a lot harder to reupholster I can imagine:D.
 

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Its a good looking US spec 1750 GTV , 1969
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Suggested Price

Gentlemen, thank-you for all your replies! This vehicle shows 33,000 miles on the odometer which I assume is 133,000. The engine was rebuilt 5 years ago by pros but the owner never drove it after more than 500 miles and therefore did not have the head bolts re-torqued/valve lash etc re-done. There are little things such as tape around the review mirror instead of the casement, back-up light doesn't work, interior fan doesn't run etc. What do you think is a reasonable price to pay for this machine.

P.S. when I was 17 I bought my first car, a 1970 GT Junior. More bondo than metal. Unfortunately it went away on a flat bed mostly due to my ignorance/lack of $ on maintenance. Needless to say this car purchase is nostalgic.

Steve
 

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What do you think is a reasonable price to pay for this machine.
There are many variables that determine the value of a particular vehicle. Without seeing the car in person, or at least extensive photos of all aspects of the car, it's impossible for anyone here to put a value on it.

From my experience, the most valuable cars have the least rust and the least modifications. For instance, my GTV has very little rust. However, it was rebuilt at some point in its life and was reassembled incorrectly. There are many missing parts and several modifications that will require a lot of time and money to correct.

To check for rust, get one of the cheap, flexible magnets that are given away at fast food restaurants or pharmacies. These are the magnets that are weak and will hold only a page or two on the refrigerator. They're great for checking for rust as they won't stick if there's more than the slightest amount of Bondo.

You might try to find a local Alfista that will help you examine the car more closely to see if there are any hidden issues.

Good luck!
 

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Archives tells me #1531068 was built in April '70; whatever light that might shed on your question.........at least it makes some chronological sense if 1530953 was Feb.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The Plan

Thanks for the replies. I'm having the car towed (by flatbed) into a local Alfa expert (used to be Alfa dealers in the day) to have them look at all aspects. Rust and the condition of the engine given the potential rebuild/break-in issue are most important. I'll update the forum with the details and ask the question on the range of reasonable prices to pay after that.

Steve
 

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Rust and originality are all that matter ... engines are simple and cheap to fix.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update on Inspection

Well, I had the car inspected by some Alfa pros. It had minimal rust, an assortment of bushings to be replaced, no show stoppers until it got to the engine. It's actually a 2 litre engine, not the 1750!! Frankly I couldn't make-out the engine numbers when I looked under the hood unless I put flour or something into them for better contrast. So, I spent $500-600 on towing/inspection just to find out it has the wrong engine. Obviously I could buy the car and make the engine change but I already have enough project cars in my shop to start a swap meet so that's not a real option. If anyone knows of a series 1 1750 GTV in near original condition, please give them my contact. Steve.
 

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Looks like a nice clean 1750.

Interesting to see the differences between US Spec series 1 1750 GTVs and those the rest of the world got. That being, the front indicators below the bumper bar and side round indicators. On ours we have the indicator on top of the bumper bar and no side indicators. Also the flying buttress seats have head rests mounted on top of the seat whereas ours come out of the rear back rest of the seat, and lastly the deep dished plastic rim steering wheel. Ours are normally woodrim hellebores (flat spoke not dished) or if black plastic rim, again not deep dished.

The deep dish steering wheel was a feature of the 2L Berlinas, Spiders and GTVs which didn't get a woodrim wheel.
 

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Interesting to see the differences between US Spec series 1 1750 GTVs and those the rest of the world got. That being, the front indicators below the bumper bar and side round indicators. On ours we have the indicator on top of the bumper bar and no side indicators. Also the flying buttress seats have head rests mounted on top of the seat whereas ours come out of the rear back rest of the seat, and lastly the deep dished plastic rim steering wheel. Ours are normally woodrim hellebores (flat spoke not dished) or if black plastic rim, again not deep dished.
There are quite a few differences between the US Spec series 1 1750 and the rest of the world. They make finding parts sooooo much more difficult.
 

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Well there are worse things than having a 2 liter motor. I don't think it really affects the value of the car unless it is a near show quality. Like Pete said it is all about rust and interior condition.

If it's a good car and a good price I say buy it and enjoy the ride. If you simply must have a 1750 then get one in a couple of years and do the swap - it takes a weekend at most.

If you are seriously needing a correct 1750 GTV now pm me. I will have one available soon.
 
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