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Discussion Starter · #401 ·
Today I checked the liner protrusion. I put an old liner in and clamped it down using my home made liner clamp tools. (Basically aluminum tube and fender washers) then I took my deck block for checking piston protrusion typically and zerod my dial indicator on a flat surface and measured the protrusion of the liner above the block with no o ring gasket.
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measured .002 on both new and old liner which is good. May try again with an o ring to see the difference but I’m not sure if it’s worth using one just to see.
 

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Yes they are different shafts.
 

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Today I checked the liner protrusion. I put an old liner in and clamped it down using my home made liner clamp tools. (Basically aluminum tube and fender washers) then I took my deck block for checking piston protrusion typically and zerod my dial indicator on a flat surface and measured the protrusion of the liner above the block with no o ring gasket. View attachment 1702185 View attachment 1702186
measured .002 on both new and old liner which is good. May try again with an o ring to see the difference but I’m not sure if it’s worth using one just to see.
I noticed that the fitting/connector coming out of the block for the oil port has a groove for an oring. That fitting is not shown in eper parts breakdown of engine block or the lubrication system so the oil ring isn't shown either. The big 234035067 oring ITEM 3 I found in Italy is the only one shown but it goes in the groove in the 60562302 (5-spd) 60808390 (A/T) engine support.

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Gesture Font Line Art Auto part


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ENGINE BLOCK

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I noticed that the fitting/connector coming out of the block for the oil port has a groove for an oring. That fitting is not shown in eper parts breakdown of engine block or the lubrication system so the oil ring isn't shown either. The big 234035067 oring ITEM 3 I found in Italy is the only one shown but it goes in the groove in the ITEM 4 - 60562302 (5-spd) 60808390 (A/T) engine support.

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View attachment 1702247

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Discussion Starter · #405 ·
So I took that O ring off and kinda screwed myself. I don’t think it’s an o ring. At first I thought it was an oring that hardened from heat etc. but when I tried to take it off it cracked. It seems like it’s a plastic ring. Which is bad for two reasons. One plastic doesn’t stretch so no way I could install a new plastic one. And two the part number doesn’t exist. So now the question is why wouldn’t an o ring work? I would presume it should after looking at both ends of where it’s sealing it looks like it separates oil going into the filter from oil coming out of the filter. So no reason it needs to be plastic right? Let me know what you guys think. The other option is take that fitting off one of my spare motors. But I tried a wrench on it and this fitting is F’ing tight. I even found an old thread on gtv6.com for a 24v swap where they had quite the time removing that fitting.
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That sealing ring looks like it must be something like teflon and I have used a heat gun to remove and install teflon seals. I wonder if looking up 24v engines for the GTV or 166 would should that fitting and the sealing ring.

I can open my old eper CD anymore on windows 10.
 

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Discussion Starter · #407 ·
That sealing ring looks like it must be something like teflon and I have used a heat gun to remove and install teflon seals. I wonder if looking up 24v engines for the GTV or 166 would should that fitting and the sealing ring.

I can open my old eper CD anymore on windows 10.
I only have the cardisk manual for 164 but I can look on totally Alfa’s site that has free 916 manuals I’m not sure if they have a parts IPC but they have maintenance manuals I’ll check.
 

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OK looked up 155 V6 engine on the online Eper and it shows index A item 10 as 60515427 connection and item 18 to be 14457280 oring seal that go into engine block at point A
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Here is 155 V6 engine mount with item 16 the same oring 234035067 as 164 24v
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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
Found one Fiat 14457280 oring in IT O-Ring Earpiece tube petrol injector Fiat Uno Turbo i.e. 1.3, 1.4 [5514.20] | eBay and similar one in KY USA 87035S94 - A New O-Ring For A Farmtrac 35, 50, 55, 60, 80, 435, 535 Tractors | eBay
I have a feeling though the oring is for the threaded end of the 60515427 connection and the sealing ring is part of that part number.
Ordered that one about 2 minutes ago haha. We’ll see how it looks when it comes in. This one was definitely a hard plastic but I think it makes sense they were updated to an o ring. I also ordered the driveshaft bearing on eBay p/n 60801307.
 

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That 14457280 oring is used on inner threaded end of fitting oil filter screws onto outer threaded end so I am pretty sure it won't be correct size for groove on 60515427 fitting you took hard ring off of prove me wrong. It is item 2 in picture and goes on item 7.

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Discussion Starter · #412 ·
That 14457280 oring is used on inner threaded end of fitting oil filter screws onto outer threaded end so I am pretty sure it won't be correct size for groove on 60515427 fitting you took hard ring off of prove me wrong. It is item 2 in picture and goes on item 7.

View attachment 1702400
oooooh, didn't think that one through hahaha. but if that's the case ill take the fitting off my spare block and use it with that new O ring. I found the p/n and got excited not realizing it was the seal under the fitting. oh well, well see how it goes.
 

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OK looked up 155 V6 engine on the online Eper and it shows index A item 10 as 60515427 connection and item 18 to be 14457280 oring seal that go into engine block at point A
View attachment 1702394

Here is 155 V6 engine mount with item 16 the same oring 234035067 as 164 24v
View attachment 1702395
Item 10 in engine block picture 60515427 - CONNECTION fitting that goes into engine block at point A. this info from old 2004 eper​
Availability:​
- Product orderable
Family:​
AX02 - DIFFERENT PRINCIPLE MOVER ITEMS
Macro family:​
A
Discount code:​
B
Minimum quantity per package:​
5
Unit of measurement:​
Num
Weight (grams):​
30
Listed price:​
3.02 GBP
Price including taxes:​
3.55 GBP


Product previously in use for: 60515427 CONNECTION
Substituted​
Substitutes​
60807803​
CONNECTION - Replacement date:06/2003​
Prod. code​
Desc.​
Min. qty​
Repl. Ratio​
60515427
CONNECTION
1
1/1
 

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Discussion Starter · #414 ·
Are the 12v and 24v crankshafts the same? My machine shop called me and wants to know the counterweight’s weight. I have this chart but don’t know if it applies to my 24v engine.
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Discussion Starter · #415 ·
Just got an email from the machine shop today, well I got it a few days ago but didn’t see it. Apparently their balancing machine broke. And they have a brand new top of the line CWT balance machine being set up currently so I’m about a week or two out before I can start assembly. I think I’m all set on everything else nothing much I can do while I wait besides possibly install the water pump. But I don’t see much of a need to start slapping parts on at least until the crank is at least installed. But figured I’d give you all an update of where I am with the engine.
 

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Is the chart on the bob weights from Jim K's book on the V6 engine?

I was wondering if that Oring is made of shrink plastic? It goes on and then a heat gun is used to swedge it in place.

One more question...what is part 13 & 14 in those charts? Is that a pressure relief piston in case of an overpressure?

How is that oil pump coming along? I would like to see some photos if you can provide some. Be sure to check the factory length of that spring (free length and compressed) and the relief cup.

This thread reads better than some of the books I have downloaded....lots of information!
 

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Discussion Starter · #418 ·
Is the chart on the bob weights from Jim K's book on the V6 engine?

I was wondering if that Oring is made of shrink plastic? It goes on and then a heat gun is used to swedge it in place.

One more question...what is part 13 & 14 in those charts? Is that a pressure relief piston in case of an overpressure?

How is that oil pump coming along? I would like to see some photos if you can provide some. Be sure to check the factory length of that spring (free length and compressed) and the relief cup.

This thread reads better than some of the books I have downloaded....lots of information!
13 and 14 seem to be another pressure relief possibly for a plugged oil cooler? Maybe to let oil bypass the cooler incase if a clog the pressure will build up and override that route. That’s just a guess it’s some kind of relief or bypass I’ll look at it in detail Tomorrow and try and figure it out. Oil pump I have some pictures of but I can get more pictures tomorrow. I primed the pump with a drill and in a cup and tried to get the bypass to open by blocking the outlet and spinning the pump but the drill stalled before the relief opened.
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As far as the o ring goes it’s definitely plastic. I got the o ring that goes behind that fitting and plan on getting the whole fitting off the spare block and swapping it. If I can get it out that is… if not I’ll have to find a rubber ring that will fit. I don’t want to do that but I don’t see it causing harm as it would definitely be better than a snapped one. But most likely I can get that fitting out with some heat and an impact gun. I know it’s a pain to get out I tried by hand and I found a gtv6 24v swap thread where they had to remove the fitting to put a different one on to accept a filter and they had a hard time getting it out.
yes the bob weight chart is from the book. Not sure why it doesn’t have the counter weight weights. Which I believe are around 115 grams don’t quote me on that though. It was info from a guy from Europe who had his motor balanced and his motor is still running great and given I couldn’t get any other info on it I believe that’s about what they weigh. Not sure why the balancer needed that number. My guess is to try and guesstimate how much material to remove for balancing. Since it will be dynamically balanced everything will be balanced at once but I guess knowing the counterweight’s weight will make it easier to start removing material. But again that’s all a guess.
I don’t remember seeing a spec for spring length in the manual. I could have missed it. If that info is available though I won’t hesistate to pull the spring back out and check.
thank you! I’d hope this thread will help other owners of the early 24v motors like ours in the 164. I plan on doing a in depth YouTube video of timing the motor on a stand. Figure it’s my second time timing one of these and I don’t think it’s too bad of a job. If you can do a belt on a 12v car you can do a 24v car. Sure it’s harder but the principle is the same. If I have time or someone to film I may also try to film the whole engine reassembly or at least try to do it bit by bit.
 

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13 and 14 seem to be another pressure relief possibly for a plugged oil cooler? Maybe to let oil bypass the cooler incase if a clog the pressure will build up and override that route. That’s just a guess it’s some kind of relief or bypass I’ll look at it in detail Tomorrow and try and figure it out. Oil pump I have some pictures of but I can get more pictures tomorrow. I primed the pump with a drill and in a cup and tried to get the bypass to open by blocking the outlet and spinning the pump but the drill stalled before the relief opened. View attachment 1704036

I found the oil pump specs on page 01-76 and 01-77 in the service manual. It would be interesting to see how your pump compares to the book. :)
 

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Could the #13 & #14 indicate the thermostat valve to the oil cooler?
I am thinking this part you took off the block does more than just hold the oil filter.
 
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