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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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If you mean the rear suspension control arms, I just gave up and bought the complete bushing ends for the Lancia. Worked just fine in my 91S.

If you mean the lower inboard front suspension bushings, I just gave up and bought new arms complete with factory bushings.

And, for the dog bone bushings, poly did not work there, as at least for the 24v engine, they transmitted far too much vibration and noise into the interior. Drove me nuts, finally drilling multiply holes in the big poly bushing to soften it up.

Personally, I just don't think poly bushings are really worth the effort, having tried them in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #382 ·
If you mean the rear suspension control arms, I just gave up and bought the complete bushing ends for the Lancia. Worked just fine in my 91S.

If you mean the lower inboard front suspension bushings, I just gave up and bought new arms complete with factory bushings.

And, for the dog bone bushings, poly did not work there, as at least for the 24v engine, they transmitted far too much vibration and noise into the interior. Drove me nuts, finally drilling multiply holes in the big poly bushing to soften it up.

Personally, I just don't think poly bushings are really worth the effort, having tried them in the past.
I plan on doing front and rear in Polly, but the motor mounts id like to do in rubber I don’t want the engine vibrations transferred too much. I like the ride of the poly as I do like a stiffer ride in general but jeez are they a pain to install even with a hydraulic press.
 

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You will find, as some others have found, including myself, that all poly can make for a harsher ride. I thought the same as you, but later I decided that the harshness got a little old, preferring a stiff ride but without the harshness. Better shocks are the best way to go. I put Koni's on my LS, adjusted to the same stiffness as the 91S sport setting (after much road comparison testing), with S springs front and rear, with 16 inch wheels, and it made the car. Wouldn't go back.

Carlo thought that car superb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #384 ·
You will find, as some others have found, including myself, that all poly can make for a harsher ride. I thought the same as you, but later I decided that the harshness got a little old, preferring a stiff ride but without the harshness. Better shocks are the best way to go. I put Koni's on my LS, adjusted to the same stiffness as the 91S sport setting (after much road comparison testing), with S springs front and rear, with 16 inch wheels, and it made the car. Wouldn't go back.

Carlo thought that car superb.
I need to replace a lot my suspension. The rear struts are blown to a point where it’s a bit dangerous feeling to drive, I was thinking about going the koni route. Problem being I don’t have the L shocks to use to make the koni’s mount into the Q. From what I understand I would need several parts of the L struts to make the koni’s mount. And at that point koni’s L struts, and springs would end up being around a grand. So I’ve been thinking about getting the yellow speed coil overs. I’m not super into lowering cars too much. A bit I wouldn’t mind. But I’ve never installed coil overs on any car I’ve always rebuilt my suspensions with all OEM parts or bilsteins. But for this car the 900$ price tag and custom damping and spring rate is hard to beat. The electronic Boge struts work great when they work but I don’t think they’re worth replacing. I’ve considered a rebuild kit but at the same time I think the car could benefit from a conventional coil over strut system. It may end up being too harsh and I remove it but I think at the price I’ll give them a shot. Worst case I already have the boge struts removed so I can rebuild them and then swap back and sell the coil overs.
 

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Or, you could find a set of used S shocks and rebuild them, rather easy it turns out, done it myself, and use them. I know that would work, as I adjusted the Konis on the LS to the same basic characteristics as the S strut sport setting (about 3/4 firm), and the results were so similar.

I bought a used S set a few years ago. They are out there. Just run them in the default sport setting. You are correct, though, that the appropriate Konis would be hard to find now.

Haven't heard anything lately from the fellow in New York (IIRC) who was installing coil overs on his 164. Wonder how that turned out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #386 ·
Or, you could find a set of used S shocks and rebuild them, rather easy it turns out, done it myself, and use them. I know that would work, as I adjusted the Konis on the LS to the same basic characteristics as the S strut sport setting (about 3/4 firm), and the results were so similar.

I bought a used S set a few years ago. They are out there. Just run them in the default sport setting. You are correct, though, that the appropriate Konis would be hard to find now.

Haven't heard anything lately from the fellow in New York (IIRC) who was installing coil overs on his 164. Wonder how that turned out.
I bet I could find some and if some turned up for the right price that would be the move. But for now I think this is a good path. Yeah that thread went dead unfortunately but I do know a local guy who has the yellow speed coil overs on his car and really likes them he also has put a decent amount of miles on them so I feel confident enough to take the risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #387 ·
Just dropped the engine off at the engine balance place. It’s a place in Danbury ct. about an hour and 10 minute drive from my work. Brought all the stuff out there and he said he’d get to it early next week. So that’s great news! If that’s the case very soon this engine will be going back together however there’s a few parts I still need. I have a feeling @Alfisto Steve might want to kill me as I have a feeling he has these parts and he just shipped me a shipment of things only a few days ago but we’ll see.
more O rings. All the o rings that go between the oil filter housing and the engine block. Another discovery I realized was not in the gasket set. There’s a small one on the block side and a bigger one on the housing side. Also what’s up with the oil pump drive seal? Is that the same seal as the cam seals? Here’s pictures of the o ring.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Crankset Bicycle part Vehicle brake
 

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Discussion Starter · #389 ·
You need oring seal 234035067 for between block and rear engine mount/oil filter.
Three seals available on ebay in IT but his shipping rate is obscene
234035067 oil pump gasket alpha 75-OIL UMP seal | eBay

Aux shaft seal 60610985 same as for cam shafts
Thanks Steve! And that’s good to hear my kit only came wirh 4 cam seals but I had ordered some before for the motor in the car so I’ll be all set on that. I’ll look around for that part number should be able to find somthing.
 

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A few things, I’m going to make a wanted post in the BB but figure I’ll ask here as well incase any of you following have it. I would really like to either buy or rent a set of 24V cam dies. Factory ones I have two sets of the eBay silver ones and they don’t fit too well. I have a Ferrari tensioner tool that doesn’t have the moment arm like the Alfa tool is supposed to but I don’t know if that moment arm is totally necessary as I successfully set the timing on the motor that’s in the car without it.
Second thing not really motor related but anyone instal the super pro Polly bushings on their control arms. I did on my black car and remember them being a pain to install even with a press. I loved the way the car handled with them but if there’s a set that is easier to install then I’ll give that a try.
Third thing, has anyone used this kit? https://www.amber-performance.co.uk/product.php?xProd=15749&xSec=301
I was going to replace all the radiator hoses and fuel lines when I take the motor since the fuel lines are dry rotted and the coolant hoses aren’t far behind. I found good fuel hose but that kit seems to be around the same price as buying all new oem rubber hoses so if it’s of good quality I think it’s a no brainer.
Fourth thing. I put the first part on the motor today! Still can’t assemble as I’m waiting for the crank to be balanced but I put on the timing bracket with some mastinox and I put the brand new knock sensors on. All of it took about 2 minutes but hey it’s great to see something going back together. View attachment 1701686 View attachment 1701687
I put those Samco coolant hoses on my car. Brilliant fit and quality. Just a shame the kit didn't also include the coolant to heater matrix/expansion tank hoses.
Waterpump gasket wise, the better the gasket the better. I put a paper gasket on my new pump and added sealant to engine block side as an 'old surface' but didn't add it to the new surface pump side, which weeped after reassembly - only discovered after refilling after new cambelt put on. Means need to take it all off again...
Those M6 waterpump bolts wise, I bought and cut to exact length (where necessary - some really odd lengths, i.e. 28mm) 12.9 zinc-coated cap heads too. Coated them in anti-sieze before installing and the wavy washers are good at holding them in place. 12.9 is massively stronger than the aluminium block they go into and my thinking is, in worst case, I'd rather extract the bolt steel intact and rep[air the thread than have to drill out a snapped steel bolt section from sof aluminium.
 

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Poly bushings wise, I have them where the rear trailing arms mount to the body and the big top 24v engine mount - recommend both. Plan to put poly in front suspension sway/roll bar lollipops and front of A-arm; though front of A-arm bush changes are horrible even with standard bushes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #392 ·
I put those Samco coolant hoses on my car. Brilliant fit and quality. Just a shame the kit didn't also include the coolant to heater matrix/expansion tank hoses.
Waterpump gasket wise, the better the gasket the better. I put a paper gasket on my new pump and added sealant to engine block side as an 'old surface' but didn't add it to the new surface pump side, which weeped after reassembly - only discovered after refilling after new cambelt put on. Means need to take it all off again...
Those M6 waterpump bolts wise, I bought and cut to exact length (where necessary - some really odd lengths, i.e. 28mm) 12.9 zinc-coated cap heads too. Coated them in anti-sieze before installing and the wavy washers are good at holding them in place. 12.9 is massively stronger than the aluminium block they go into and my thinking is, in worst case, I'd rather extract the bolt steel intact and rep[air the thread than have to drill out a snapped steel bolt section from sof aluminium.
Sounds good! I’ll be getting the samco kit! Makes sense with the strong bolt coming out in one piece. I plan on covering the threads with mastinox so I doubt they’ll corrode enough to be seized ever again.
 

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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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I sure disagree about the dogbone big bushing being poly, unless they have changed them. I got very tired of the noise and vibration it transmitted into the body and car interior of my LS, regardless of how that dogbone was adjusted. As I mentioned before, had to drill a bunch of holes in the big bushing in order to soften it up.

I emailed the company back then, don't remember which one now, but the big one, and they said, yeah, maybe we will soften them up, as they are pretty stiff.
 

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Was 10 years ago when I put the poly big dogbone bushing in so no pics to hand. Beyond knowing it is yellow and simply works very well, have no more information to give. Maybe mine is softer than the one you had? The original was totally shot.
 

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Probabbly. I installed mine about 20 years ago. Was also yellow.
 

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Most, if not all of the newer alfa engines dont have sump gaskets. Recommend Hondabond. Put a layer on the block and a layer on the pan. Use what would normally be considered an unhealthy amount. Let cure before adding fluids. You wont have any problems.
Have changed many many sumps on the 4 cylinder engines.
 

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Thanks Steve! And that’s good to hear my kit only came wirh 4 cam seals but I had ordered some before for the motor in the car so I’ll be all set on that. I’ll look around for that part number should be able to find somthing.
George if you can use this let me know I’ll slip into an envelope and send it out
 

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Discussion Starter · #398 ·
Recently I thought of a logistics problem during the engine swap. I want to make it go as smoothly as possible here’s the issue. The oil filter housing I have doesn’t have the bearing or anything in it for the axle shaft. I have a spare one with the half shaft but it isn’t in the best shape. And then of course there’s the one in the car which is in good shape. So should I just keep that housing and seal it to the motor at the time of the swap? Or is there a bearing in there I should replace on the new housing now and then put the axle shaft through during the swap? Or am I just overthinking this detail. My worry is if I use the whole assembly in the car I may not get it to seal correctly since it’ll have a whole shaft on it snd be not on a clean nice table but rather a mess of whatever garage I’m doing the swap in. The other concern is the axle shaft will not come cleanly out of the one in the car and I’ll get hung up there.
 

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I am pretty sure I have a couple new intermediate axle shaft bearings somewhere in my stash. I would install a new bearing on your spare shaft. Do you have the metal ring bearing retainer already on the spare shaft between bearing and axle hub end and the three long M6 bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #400 ·
I am pretty sure I have a couple new intermediate axle shaft bearings somewhere in my stash. I would install a new bearing on your spare shaft. Do you have the metal ring bearing retainer already on the spare shaft between bearing and axle hub end and the three long M6 bolts?
I do but I’m realizing now the spare shaft if for an automatic trans. I’ll have to check the IPC but I believe they are different. I’ll do some research on the parts.
 
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