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Discussion Starter #1
While we waiting to decide what to do with the Red 164S that was rear ended ( trying to get a realistic estimate from a body shop), I decided I'd better do some needed maint to the silver 164B as we'll probably have to use it for a while longer. Finished replacing the starter this morning. While I was under there, installed a used but previously working oxygen sensor that came off the red car, or was it the black one?

The Heater A/C blower hasn't worked all winter. 40A fuse is ok. Since the false fire wall is out anyway to access the rear manifold bolts, the blower is accessible. I put 12V on the blower directly. It spins freely, no noise. I let it run for 15 minutes. I pulled the relay, put 12v across the coil side. It clicks and I got continuity on the power side and open circuit when the coil was deactivated.

The 10A fuse under the dash isn't blown.
Where should I look next?
 

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1991 164L
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In blower motor relay Q15 socket:

First try one of the two 50A cooling fan relays in place of 50A blower relay if still no go then:

Check pin socket 85 for ground to chassis at all times.
Check pin socket 86 for 12v when key turned on.
Check pin socket 30 for 12v from 40A fuse bar (hot at all times).

With a good relay back in socket and key on check for 12v at pink wire to fan motor 2-wire connector.

Check for ground at green wire to the a/c panel in blower motor 2-wire connector (same side as pink wire in connector not green wire in motor side connector) when either ECON or AUTO buttons in a/c dash panel pushed with key on after off button pushed on.

Clean 4-wire connector pins and grease with dieelectric grease.

Report you findings.

Also check for 12v at pin wire to Q31 fan speed controller square 4-wire connector to located in front of evaporator box iunder reciever dryer area.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, Thanks. Will have to wait until false fire wall is back in.
 

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1991 164L
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OK, Thanks. Will have to wait until false fire wall is back in.
Or until G56 terminal board wires hooked up and small black ground wires grounded.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok, Starter is done and everything back together. It starts really well and idles smooth. On the big rubber hose to the throttle body had a tear where the idle actuator hose connects. Made a repair.

Back to the blower...I ran through the checks in Steve's post, except the last one...the 4 wire connector at the dryer. The relay socket rang out fine. I got 12v and the fan plug with the key on, but...couldn't get ground on the green wire at the fan plug.
The ground connection from the black wire at the speed controller checked out good.
Also, when I ground the green wire at Q31 and turn the key on, the fan runs.

Suggestions?
 

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1991 164L
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Ok, Starter is done and everything back together. It starts really well and idles smooth. On the big rubber hose to the throttle body had a tear where the idle actuator hose connects. Made a repair.

Back to the blower...I ran through the checks in Steve's post, except the last one...the 4 wire connector at the dryer. The relay socket rang out fine. I got 12v and the fan plug with the key on, but...couldn't get ground on the green wire at the fan plug.
The ground connection from the black wire at the speed controller checked out good.
Also, when I ground the green wire at Q31 and turn the key on, the fan runs.

Suggestions?
Bad on/off switch in a/c panel is my first guess. when you push it does ECON or AUTO buttons green lights come on?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As far as the lights on the on/off button and 4 fan speeds go, they operate normally.
Maybe tomorrow, I'll plug a spare speed controller in and see what happens.
It also has a leaking water pump:(
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This morning, I plugged in the spare speed controller and the fan runs. At this point, I'm unwilling to remove the dryer for a permanent installation so will operate the fan speed with the buttons on the dash.

Has anyone had a speed controller apart to see what's in there and what fails?
 

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1991 164L
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If you still have false firewall out just remove bad speed controller and heat sink assembly from front of evaporator box and install your good spare. If it is off heat sink you should use some heat sink insulating grease when mounting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
False firewall is back in...not going there again this trip:) This is the future parts car...that is refusing to die:)
 

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1991 164L
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As it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yea, I'm starting to think I should put on the rebuilt heads I have, do the timing belt, tensioner and water pump, Have the right rear corner pulled out so I can open the back door, and drive it longer. After all, it does have a trailer hitch:)
 

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1991 164L
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Yea, I'm starting to think I should put on the rebuilt heads I have, do the timing belt, tensioner and water pump, Have the right rear corner pulled out so I can open the back door, and drive it longer. After all, it does have a trailer hitch:)
And it is not an ugly blue truck! That hitch is a real plus, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
2 winters ago we had a big storm coming and I needed salt for Parkway Chateau. I hauled back 1/2 ton of bagged salt through slippery snowy roads with the B hauling the trailer. I wondered how long the clutch would last after that, but it seemed to make out just fine.
 
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