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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for advice on bleeding the clutch on my 164S. I had to replace a bad clutch slave cylinder and can't bleed the system using my pressure bleeder through the master cylinder. Maybe it requires reverse bleeding???

Also have a couple of other issues:

brake lights are on constantly, does not go out with the brake light switch disconnected, only when I disconnect the main connection.

wiper fluid warning light is on even with wiper tank full of fluid

Air bag warning light is on

Oil pressure gauge is showing no pressure, I suspect the connection at the motor is off, where is it on the S motor?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

;)
 

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Looking for advice on bleeding the clutch on my 164S. I had to replace a bad clutch slave cylinder and can't bleed the system using my pressure bleeder through the master cylinder. Maybe it requires reverse bleeding???

Also have a couple of other issues:

brake lights are on constantly, does not go out with the brake light switch disconnected, only when I disconnect the main connection.

wiper fluid warning light is on even with wiper tank full of fluid

Air bag warning light is on

Oil pressure gauge is showing no pressure, I suspect the connection at the motor is off, where is it on the S motor?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

;)
1. I pressure bleed through brake reservoir by forcing fluid through reservoir with my pressure bleeder by attaching bleeder adapter cap and feed hose in place of reservoir cap. Open bleeder on slave cylinder and get clear fluid. Be sure bleeder port on top of slave. Some Alfisti disconnect slave from tranny and hold it elevated on hose with bleeder facing straight up (restrain piston).

It may help to just touch pedal slightly to take out free play and just start to move M/C piston and release and touch several times. Once clear no bubbles close bleeder and reinstall slave and test clutch.

2. Check for stuck brake relay behind false firewall close to where heater hoses come through firewall.

3. Check float switch/wiring connector with front inner fender liner out.

4. http://www.digest.net/alfa/FAQ/164/b009009.htm

For more TSB info http://www.digest.net/alfa/FAQ/164/tsb.htm

5. Same place on GTV6. Milano and 12v 164 between heads rear of engine.

5a. Red light sender in rear head on 164 12v is under dizzy cap.
 

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3. Check float switch/wiring connector with front inner fender liner out. [/QUOTE said:
I had this problem and found an easy fix. Remove the passenger head light and short the wires to the float together. This shut off the light on the dash, but now I have no warning when the washer fluid is low. I can live this fix.
 

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The brake lights constantly on problem is one I had with the old silver '91 (167xxx body number, very early build date for US cars) we had. The problem was .... a bent/broken switch mount for the pickup on the brake pedal in the driver's footwell. It no longer met the brake pedal plate which was supposed to push it in (to open the normally-closed switch). Voila --- brake lights always on, even when key was out of car. Did a nice job of draining the battery overnight if you didn't notice the lights on when parking it in mid-day. But an easy fix.

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for all the advice on my issues. I did try using the power brake bleeder as described but have not had any real luck, even tried to slightly move the brake pedal. I'll try again.
 

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thanks for all the advice on my issues. I did try using the power brake bleeder as described but have not had any real luck, even tried to slightly move the brake pedal. I'll try again.
Did you replace hose(s)? Did you remove useless damper and just go with one new hose (my suggestion)?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yep. I replaced the slave cylinder and the hose, also did away with the dampner. The PO said the mechanic had rebuilt the master clutch cylinder so maybe he did it wrong and that's why it keep dropping to the floor.

After I bleed it, it seems to work for about10-15 clutch movements, then it drops to the floor and stays there.
 

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It sounds like the master clutch cylinder is no good - bad piston seal or dirt/corrosion on cylinder wall! If you've already put in new slave and rubber hose, then you might as well put in a new master cylinder too - though it is not a pleasant job! Replace the supply line too - old hose can have black particle like stuff comes off that cause leak or damage piston seal!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Left the car overnight with the master cylinder cap off and the clutch works well again, maybe some air bled up out of the master cylinder? In any case, it's working now.

Fixed the brake lights, the PO had bent out the plate holding both brake switches enough that they were not making contact with the brake pedal.

Disconnected the oil pressure gauge and grounded the lead, oil gauge pegged so that is working. Maybe a bad sender or bad grounds on the engine?

The mirror switch is not working not is the rear inside dome lights by the rear seats.

Only had the car for 4 days so good progress so far :D
 
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