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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

The rear shocks on my 1995 24v 164 are shot and got a replacement pair to put in but how? Undid nuts on the lower shock bolts but the bolts themselves didn't budge. Can apply more force but if the bolts snap I'm stuck with a broken car I can't even drive to a garage.

Anyone had any experience with this?
 

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Welcome to the frozen rear strut lower bolt club. If they are rusted in place you may have to cut them off and get new bolts.

I would suggest trying to sand exposed shank of lower bolt with ribbon of plumbers emory cloth and spraying bolh bolts with PB Blaster rust penetrating oil or even ATF fluid. I use a pneumatic air hammer with flat mushroom head to try and drive them out of lower axle carriage.

I have had to saw bolts off with electric sawzall metal blade and bend strut flanges open to get them off axle carriage .

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/342082-rear-strut-lower-bolt-very-stuck.html.

Didn't you post this question couple years ago was that a different 164?
 

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I believe this is the same as the 12v cars. I took me about 6 hours to get those 4 bolts out.

You will see exposed sections of the bolts as they pass through the cast hub carrier/spindle (whatever it's called). Sand down any exposed rust or crud on those exposed sections. You can snake some emory cloth or light grit sandpaper in there and work it around as best you can.

Spray down everything with your favorite rust dissolver.

I had to pound them out and I ended up replacing them anyway. At least no drilling was required.
 

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Hey Richard,

Have all your wounds from your 24v manifold gaskets job healed? This new project ain't a fun one either.
 

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Been there and done that several times.
It takes hours simply because of awkward access.

It really helps to remove the whole axle assembly and then try and undo the bolts when all is out in the open.
This is not guaranteed as when you apply force those bolts might sheer anyway.

Axle removal is not too difficult but getting it back on takes patience, beer and you will utter cuss words you never knew existed.

If all else fails and you have to saw them off I probably have replacement bolts.

Save all the washers.....

Ta,

Neville.
 

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When you finally get the old bolts out and ready to install new ones, be sure to lather them up with lots of antiseize compound. Messy but totally essential.

Been lucky with the ones in my 91S, what with 178k miles on the bolts, they came out cleanly when I rebuilt the struts. Sure helps to not have salt on the roads out here.
 

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draw,foto, and be darned sure of the washer placement before you take all that stuff apart as it affects the alignment. At least on mine as the washers were of varying thicknesses and "oriented" as it were. I did'nt have any issues with mine as it was a short, rust free job but did want to contribute something somewhat useful. Ciao chris - somewhere near Bransom currently
 

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I believe the correct technical acronym for the hammer is BFH, not BIH.

Whenever suspension work is contemplated on an older car one should plan on replacing the fasteners as well.

I can see how heat can help in removing a nut but would heat really help in extracting the bolt? The bolt seizes into the mounting hole due to the expansion of the bolt and of the ID of the hole due to rust occupying more space than the original steel. Penetrating oil designed to dissolve rust should eventually soften this obstruction permitting the hammering out of the bolts.

I agree that removal of the hub and strut assembly would make this easier. It is the hub you are trying to save.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Welcome to the frozen rear strut lower bolt club. If they are rusted in place you may have to cut them off and get new bolts.

I would suggest trying to sand exposed shank of lower bolt with ribbon of plumbers emory cloth and spraying bolh bolts with PB Blaster rust penetrating oil or even ATF fluid. I use a pneumatic air hammer with flat mushroom head to try and drive them out of lower axle carriage.

I have had to saw bolts off with electric sawzall metal blade and bend strut flanges open to get them off axle carriage .

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/342082-rear-strut-lower-bolt-very-stuck.html.

Didn't you post this question couple years ago was that a different 164?
Thanks Steve and well remembered. I did post about this two years ago. Different car, blue now, and got new bolts ready this time.

Emery sounds a good idea. Is there much risk of the bolts snapping if I use a breaker bar to try and get them to at least rotate?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I believe this is the same as the 12v cars. I took me about 6 hours to get those 4 bolts out.

You will see exposed sections of the bolts as they pass through the cast hub carrier/spindle (whatever it's called). Sand down any exposed rust or crud on those exposed sections. You can snake some emory cloth or light grit sandpaper in there and work it around as best you can.

Spray down everything with your favorite rust dissolver.

I had to pound them out and I ended up replacing them anyway. At least no drilling was required.
Thanks Spitfire,

Any suggestions on a rust dissolver?
 

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Do your sanding of lower bolt shank dry then if you don't have any PB Blaster lookalike you can try ATF A/T fluid. I doubt you can shear off bolt with cheater bar and socket. When i couldn't move bolts with pneumatic hammer I have had to cut them apart with electric saw as hacksaw just takes to long. There I go again repeating myself.
 

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PB Blaster or your equal across the Atlantic as Steve says.

Mine were rusted enough that I thought I could shear off the bolt heads. I stopped twisting and started hammering at that point. If I ran into that again, I might cut the exposed sections of bolts and hammer out the rest with a punch. I forget right now how much is accessible to cut.

All the rubber bushing sleeves were also seized to the bolts as well. Both at the subframe and the strut bolts.
 

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Maybe when reassembling all that rear suspension stuff, have lots of anti-rust protective layer LPS3 sprayed on everything, reapplied now and then, as well as the anti-seize paste used on the bolts. If I lived in the road salt areas, I sure would.
 

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The replacement bolts can be bought at McMaster-Carr, be sure you have the needed lengths. Top and bottom are different.

I second the note to make CERTAIN you know where the washers go. DAMHIKT.

As a suggestion, do one side at a time, then you'll have a reference on the other side. DAMHIKT-2
 

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My hands looked like the tin man after reassembly. :grin2: I'm sure other care with rust preventative products would help down the road.

I don't know how long the parts were on my car. Maybe original? Once all the new parts are installed and torqued, I don't know how much differently the bushings behave if new and greased vs. old and seized to the bolts. I don't know that each piece needs to rotate independently. All I know is that some needed to be replaced when I did the work, and the seized condition made it necessary (or at least easier) to cut the long bolts at the subframe. I think I was able to punch everything out at the strut bolts.

If the new stuff lasts 24 years that wouldn't be too bad!
 

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Is there much risk of the bolts snapping if I use a breaker bar to try and get them to at least rotate?
Yes they do snap.....mine did.

But its worth a try to tap them and then carefully use the breaker bar to turn the bolt.
Just don't apply too much torque like I did.

Any excessive use of a hammer or breaker bar will render the bolts useless as their integrity will be compromised.
 
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