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If you get 3 to 4 years out of a battery I think you have to be happy, how good is a battery really going to be after that?
It's one of the most important items in the car, I do not think you should go without replacing it every 3 to 4 years, if I knew all was well in the car, no power drain issues and I knew I would not be starting driving it for at least a week, I would disconnect the battery, let alone all winter, it's just the screw of a nut and remove, quick job, if it's not going to be used all winter I would be removing it and putting it on a battery charger at least fortnightly, batteries need to be looked after and kept at optimim charge

I do not think they even make the batteries that need topping up anymore?

Can not recall the last time I seen one, are they not all sealed units these days?
 

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The trunk is vented in the 164, as there are rectangular openings in the lower rear fenders behind the wheel wells, under the cladding as I recall, for the hvac system air to exit the car when the fan is on or when the car is moving.

The air in the trunk is refreshed satisfactorily I suspect.
I should check this before I speak...but.
I seem to remember that there is a hose that connects to the battery vent and exits the trunk floor.
 

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This one? Not sure it's there for venting, I assumed it was for the older type batteries that can overflow/leak/spill, that it was a drain tube, yes it goes to the underside of the 164 when installed, initially the 164s had a vent flap in the boot on either side, but I noticed in the later models they removed the vent flap on one side and just put a blank in its spot, unsure of reason.....
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
This one? Not sure it's there for venting, I assumed it was for the older type batteries that can overflow/leak/spill, that it was a drain tube, yes it goes to the underside of the 164 when installed, initially the 164s had a vent flap in the boot on either side, but I noticed in the later models they removed the vent flap on one side and just put a blank in its spot, unsure of reason.....
In my earlier post regarding the Interstate battery, the small 5/8" vent tube shown on the upper left (the negative side) of the battery, in the third/fourth photos, exits the trunk floor through the same "split" grommet as the larger drain tube shown in your photo. There are two tubes associated with the battery going through the trunk floor of the LS.
 

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The 4+ - year old battery in the Q died after the warranty ran out. I am done with Interstate batteries and Costco as the one in the Acura died as well. I was considering any number of batteries and the costs are about $225 and up for a replacement.
I took Timo's posting about the battery from Advanced auto parts. It has 1000cca but only a 1 year free replacement.

For what it cost I could buy two of these for the price of another one.
My concern is,..does it fit the existing bracket?

Does anyone have any feedback on this battery?
Car Quest Part No: 31HDP30
1000 CCA @ 0°F
 

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I've never had a problem with Costco/Kirkland (Interstate) batteries, averaging about 10+ years between changes, even in the 164S and LS. I just use the group 27 size, and they seem to work just fine. Maybe it's the moderate weather here in this area.

I do happen to have a size 31 Interstate in the LS right now, from about 6-7 years ago, but that was kind of an accident, as I had thought on a trip to El Paso that the battery in the car was acting up, so got talked into changing it to the big Interstate. Turns out there was nothing wrong, so ended up with a battery I figure I didn't need. The size 27 I had in there was ok after all. Oh well.
 

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The one I have in there now measures at 7 3/4 x 11 x 6 3/4 high and the one I am thinking about is 2 inches taller and 2 inches longer, making the hold-down bracket not bolt into place. As it is now I had to use a zip-tie to hold everything down.
Will the 2 inches taller battery fit under the cover? Then I have to ask, how do I hold the battery in place? Use a larger zip tie?
Most likely I will just take the tray down there and see what fits. :) Thank you for the advice.
 

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Through the years, I've never understood why some cars seem to wipe out batteries, and other don't. In my owning Alfas since 66, I've changed batteries in several of my Alfas, usually only every ~10 years or so if I've had those cars that long.

The 89 Milano from new (the original Italian battery lasted a month so I don't count that one) is on it's third battery @105k miles, the 91S is probably on it's third, I think, at 193k miles. The 78 Alfetta sedan had a couple in the 180k miles we put on it through the years. The 94LS is on it's third (by mistake) @ 118k miles.

I suspect it is either the very hot summer temperatures in some parts of the country, or the very cold winter temperatures elsewhere in the country which tend to degrade the batteries which are reported to go bad.
 

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There are 2 factors going on here in my thought process. The first one is junk batteries. The testimonies here say that the good Interstates are made somewhere else and that even Optima is not as good. Somewhere in the process of making a battery, corners are cut and they raise the price. I am shocked at the cost of a battery today compared to just a few years ago.

The 2nd factor is that the Q and LS have radios that draw current from the battery to maintain the memory. Albeit it is a trickle, if you don't drive the car it can literally suck the life out of a battery until it is so dead it will not recharge or won't come all the way up to full charge.

In the 91 spider I have a Costco Interstate that so far is holding a charge and the car fires right up. However, we know batteries can fail at the most inopportune time.

I think it is best to get a battery float that maintains a trickle charge to keep the battery up to max voltage/amps. That can be another whole discussion of what is a good one and what voltage/amp must be optimum.

I read an article today about batteries that the lead/acid is 75% acid and 25% water. The acid never goes away but the water does. In cold temps, the water separates from the acid and freezes. In the heat, the water evaporates leaving dead cells. Over time battery sulfates and drops to the bottom. Over time a battery will short out between the cells from too many sulfates. Some say that you can drain a battery and flush out the cells to rejuvenate them removing the sulfate. There is a chemical additive you can put in a cell that supposedly keeps the sulfate from building up. Neither have I tried.

Gel batteries are a good choice but they are expensive and you can not quickly charge them.

The new sealed batteries have mats between the cells that make them so they don't lose water and cuts down on sulfates. This is what you will usually find in new cars. So far my Ram is on its original factory battery from 2014. The Acura is on its 4th battery (3 from Costco) and this one is from Autozone in 245,000 miles.

The wrapped Optima batteries have a lot of amperage charge due to the way it is built. Then you have to look at the cost of those vs the others.

A battery today is over $225 for a quality battery and closer to $300 for a premium battery. You have to decide what your wallet can afford and run with that.

The choice that was posted from Advanced Auto Parts surprised me for the cost vs the CCA at 1000. Tractor Supply has batteries and they are comparable to AAP cost-wise and CCA's. These came in around $150-$180. However, the warranty is only a 1-year free replacement.

Roll the dice and take your chances.
 

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Picked up the highest CCA version that had properly placed poles from Costco. It's been fine (actually, swapped one on warranty after 2 years...left it without charging and it wouldn't come back...darn vampire power drain in these cars). On the new one now and I check it every 3-4 days when not driving. Slightly wrong for the clamp downs but sits in place.
 

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Water in batteries cannot "separate out" and freeze. There can be a gradient of concentration within a battery but water never separates out unless the freezing point is reached. Sulfuric acid is a solution and the H2SO4 part remains constantly distributed throughout. Water does not evaporate out of modern sealed batteries. A small amount breaks down into hydrogen gas which is vented and oxygen which stays dissolved as far as I know. For sealed batteries this electrolysis of the water is very slow. Batteries can only freeze when the charge is too low resulting in a weaker acid solution. The battery is worn out long before that can happen. Battery acid is much less than 50% acid even when the battery is fully charged. In theory water "floats to the top" in a discharged battery but the heat generated by discharge and recharging means the fluid in the battery is constantly being mixed by convection currents and diffusion of the higher density acid into lower density acid.

Batteries are worn out by heat cycling. Hot ambient temperatures speed this up. The 164 battery is in the trunk and stays cooler than a battery inside the engine compartment. The longer wiring is somewhat compensated for by fitting a large battery.

Cold weather just reveals weakness in a battery but does not cause it to fail. Very cold weather slows the chemical reaction required to release electrical power which is why the CCA rating is the only battery variable worth considering. How powerful is the battery when very cold?

I have had excellent performance from the AC Delco battery selected by ARDONA as the factory fit. I'm on my fourth in 29 years and this battery was put in last year or the year before. I'm getting about 8 years per battery on average which is very good.
 
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