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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
A friend closed a dropped door carefully by holding the outer door handle up, which seems to have confused the lock mechanism.
Afterwards it wouldn't latch at all. Got around it by having someone keep the closed and then using the central locking switch to force it to latch. It did. Now it won't unlatch.
The central locking goes nuts. Driving over bumps can trigger it to lock all doors, as can thumping the door.

Trying to open the door:
Manually trying to pull up the lock button (even battery disconnected) fails. It is jammed.
Trying the key to do the same gets the same - is jammed.
Lowering the window and pulling the top of the door card away to access the lock mechanism from above achieves the same - nothing. The latch itself is jammed in the locked position and refuses to release.
After significant time of zero success, I cut the door card to get better access - cut it to avoid damaging the dashboard. Still can't get the **** thing to know it should be unlocked.
Been looking at a spare lock off the car and yet to figure out how it could jam like this. Have disconnected key cylinder, solenoid and interior cable but still can't lift the button to tell the latch it is unlocked.

Pic of pain attached....
 

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There's a thread on the BB somewhere about locked doors. In my situation, the door wouldn't unlock to open. I had to force the lock button up. I grabbed the lock button with a pair of vice grips and gave it several hard, fast, violent pulls. It finally released and has not repeated the failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There's a thread on the BB somewhere about locked doors. In my situation, the door wouldn't unlock to open. I had to force the lock button up. I grabbed the lock button with a pair of vice grips and gave it several hard, fast, violent pulls. It finally released and has not repeated the failure.
Thanks. Added a nut onto the lock button thread to grip it well and pulled hard but not tried total violence yet. It endoscope doesn't give any hope will resort to it as only other option will become trying to kick the door open from the inside or angle grinding it open from the outside through the doorskin. That would really hurt and trash the door in the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lock fixed-part 1

Wow!
Thanks to magic and good fortune, got the door open today with simple finger power.

Despite all the previous shoving and heaving on what seemed all relevant parts, slipping a finger into the door cavity and pressing, as indicated in the pic by the green arrow, the door suddenly released and opened. Worth noting this acts on the same pivot as the external door handle - which previously had achieved nothing. Somehow felt the slight difference in loading by pressing from this angle was the magic required.

Was able to remove the remains of the door card and unscrew the red/white foot light without damaging it.

With the door open undid the two bolts that hold the little section of window runner below the lock, planning to remove the entire assembly. As the two bolts came out, heard something metallic drop. Still not found what it was but the thin lock/unlock arm now moves up and down as normal. Reconnected the little arm to the door lock barrel but left the door release cable and external door handle disconnected, as remains the central locking solenoid.

Tested the lock was now operating reliably by, door still open, closing it using the end of a metal torch as a dummy door latch - as in the second picture. Was starting to rain so didn't want to take it off without a good couple of hours free and with the spare lock for this door dug out of the shed. No way am reassembling this door until fully understand exactly what went wrong with the lock in the first place.

Final details to follow once done.
 

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The rod on the left sits in a hole in the white plastic "cup" behind it in th eimage. That is linked to the outer handle and pushes down onto the white plastic when pulling up the outer handle. The inner part is connected by a flexible rod and that is fed through a mount in the door panel. If that slips out or the mount cracks, the inner handle will not work at all. You may have had a number of things go wrong at the same time. Also, if one of the door lock motor casings is cracked, you will get false readings and the door will usually defaul to unlock mode. I had rebuilt mine (I thought) and the darn thing would unlock when trying to lock with the key, fob (which only worked 50-50) and even from the inside when driving. I just replaced all 4 with aftermarket motors that were a perfect fit. Cost be around $44 in total. Do not buy the universal motors with rotating hoops. Too long and you have to start adapting with the metal strap.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The rod on the left sits in a hole in the white plastic "cup" behind it in th eimage. That is linked to the outer handle and pushes down onto the white plastic when pulling up the outer handle. The inner part is connected by a flexible rod and that is fed through a mount in the door panel. If that slips out or the mount cracks, the inner handle will not work at all. You may have had a number of things go wrong at the same time. Also, if one of the door lock motor casings is cracked, you will get false readings and the door will usually defaul to unlock mode. I had rebuilt mine (I thought) and the darn thing would unlock when trying to lock with the key, fob (which only worked 50-50) and even from the inside when driving. I just replaced all 4 with aftermarket motors that were a perfect fit. Cost be around $44 in total. Do not buy the universal motors with rotating hoops. Too long and you have to start adapting with the metal strap.
Hi,
I disconnected the outer door handle rod and it remains so until I understand exactly what has gone on. It;s not a solenoid issue as have disconnected that to stop it trying to do it's job and confusing the rest of the system in the process. Think it's something more fundamental - given the metallic object that heard drop when undoing the nearby window runner and subsequent normal lock/unlock bar movement. As gfar as I can make out, the door lock itself was always OK. It was just impossible to tell make it unlocked.

Have been working on Italian cars for 30 years and never known anything like it. Just glad the door at least opens now and, when get chance, will strip the entire area and post what is found. :)
 
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