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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
Finally tried to change the large, bottom (rear) engine mount on a 24v 3.0 164 today and couldn't. The issue was the lack of space not just to get a tool on it but to also have any space to then turn that tool.
Swan neck 17mm spanner was movement restricted by the engine mount casting the engine mount I was trying to change.
Tried 17mm sockets and, even when getting one in between the steel pipes (oil cooler?) above the nut, still had no space to turn the ratchet/breaker bar.

How do others do this? Is there a special tool? Was wondering about undoing the track-rod end to move the steering arm a bit further away - though unsure if this will give enough extra movement space to help.

Help..... Please.
 

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I am assuming that you have the style of rear mount where the nut shown is on a stud that protrudes from the top of the mount. Some (maybe all) of the old original mounts have a thru bolt instead of a stud; so on those you can just wrench on the head of the bolt while just preventing rotation of the nut. Another advantage of this style of rear mount is that you only have to raise the rear of the engine about 1/16" to remove and install the mount. My car has this style of rear mount.

If yours is the stud style mount, you could use the type of ratchet handle where you rotate the handle instead of swinging the handle (I have one of these, not sure exactly what they are called). If the nut is pretty tight, you will first have to break it loose with something, and then use the special ratchet handle to continue loosening the nut. You should be able to break it loose with a 12 point socket on a long breaker bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am assuming that you have the style of rear mount where the nut shown is on a stud that protrudes from the top of the mount. Some (maybe all) of the old original mounts have a thru bolt instead of a stud; so on those you can just wrench on the head of the bolt while just preventing rotation of the nut. Another advantage of this style of rear mount is that you only have to raise the rear of the engine about 1/16" to remove and install the mount. My car has this style of rear mount.

If yours is the stud style mount, you could use the type of ratchet handle where you rotate the handle instead of swinging the handle (I have one of these, not sure exactly what they are called). If the nut is pretty tight, you will first have to break it loose with something, and then use the special ratchet handle to continue loosening the nut. You should be able to break it loose with a 12 point socket on a long breaker bar.
Hi, sadly no. The bottom end of this bolt is not hex-ended but a round plate. Have seen versions of this mounting where there is a hex bottom end and a chance to 'unscrew' that way but not in this case. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 

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I believe I used a deep offset box end wrench on that one. 12 point
Charles
 

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Can't you looosen fluid bolt at oil cooler line end fitting at oil filter mount and move steel line up some? Is there also a hold down bracket holding line in the way you could loosen?

Once you get that 17mm nut off you still have to access the three bolts holding mount to sub frame. I think one of them is 13mm and other two 15mm if my memery is working OK.

You will have to disconnect upper dog bone engine mount, too and with a board under oil pan jack up engine enough to get to slide forward out of sub frame. You should loosen/remove 17mm nut on front mount also so you don't damage front moint when you lift engine
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Many thanks, guys. Great advice and much appreciated.

Don't think there are any ties holding down the oil pipes but will take a look. If I undo the oil pipe how much oil is likely to come out?

Thanks again, Richard
 

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Many thanks, guys. Great advice and much appreciated.

Don't think there are any ties holding down the oil pipes but will take a look. If I undo the oil pipe how much oil is likely to come out?

Thanks again, Richard
Can I ask what size nut is on the oil pipe unions? Think it best to get a crow's foot spanner for it.
Thanks.
Don't undo pipes just loosen fluid bolt(s) enough to move lines as needed to access that 17mm nut and retighten. Not sure of the size of fluid bolt hex head but probably 17mm or 19mm.

If you do have to remove fluid bolt don't loose copper sealing washers. Hard to say how much static oil flow will come out but shouldn't be very much.
 

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Hi,
Finally tried to change the large, bottom (rear) engine mount on a 24v 3.0 164 today and couldn't. The issue was the lack of space not just to get a tool on it but to also have any space to then turn that tool.
I've had luck using an 'air ratchet' in tight quarters where I couldn't turn a wrench handle. My motor mount was recently out but so was the engine, making that part easy. Somehow I forgot to re-attach the power cable to the starter when installing the engine. Knowing the starter is in a very difficult location to access and part of the reason that the decision was made to pull the engine; I dreaded this job for two days. With the air ratchet it took about 30 minutes from start to finish! You still have to "break" the nut loose...

Mark
 
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