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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Took a brand new Bosch 164 climate control apart today, to convert if from LHD to RHD and thought some pics might be helpful to others.

Worth nothing is this unit had Torx T6 screw heads, not Philips cross heads as on others.

Where you see the thin clear plastic sheets over the PCBs and restricting access to a couple of screws underneath, I found it easier to puncture this sheet (carefully) rather than try to hold it out of the way.

When opening the unit 'box', after removing the 4 rear screws, do so from the bottom. There you will see a grey ribbon cable that goes to a PCB strip, held in by two white plastic locators. These are a push fit - quite tight but come out fine. In this case they came out at different ends as I was fiddling about with one before but it is not a problem. When refitting don't force anything and make sure all the pins are properly aligned before pushing it fully home - you will feel it lock in place at both ends.

The tape I added this time, over the ribbon cables to protect them from abrasion, is Gorilla tape. In the past have used ordinary insulating tape.

I also added green LED bulbs, more to reduce PCB heat than anything else. When looking from the rear of the unit, the left bulb contacts are the +12v ones - at least on this unit.

Have only uploaded 3 of the pics, think the limit is 5, so can still add more if needed.

Any questions?
 

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Hi Richard,
Thanks for the post. More pictures would be great. I have to open mine up to replace a globe for the temperature display sometime soon so this would be a great help.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Richard,
Thanks for the post. More pictures would be great. I have to open mine up to replace a globe for the temperature display sometime soon so this would be a great help.
Cheers
Hi,

What area of the unit would be most use to you? By globe do you mean bulb? If that is the case you don't need to open the case. Those just undo from the rear. There are three of them, all green. I put LED ones in mine to reduce heat but are so bright am debating going back to standard.
If you didn't mean bulb, let me know what pics can help best. Have a spare in pieces at mo and taking mine out again shortly as missed a 3rd point where tape is helpful to avoid ribbon-cable burn out.

Cheers.
 

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Hi Richard,
It is the globe to illuminate the green background for the temp display. The clock seems fine but might just be a blown globe for the temp display. Even better if I don't have to open the case :)
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Richard,
It is the globe to illuminate the green background for the temp display. The clock seems fine but might just be a blown globe for the temp display. Even better if I don't have to open the case :)
Cheers
Hi, it's good news for you then. It will just be the globe behind the temp display. There are three fittied, one behind each LCD area: temperature, clock and fan speed. No need to undo the unit. Just remove it and take the blown globe, out as you would for one in the dashboard.

These are coated green so would suggest getting replacements first - standard T5 fitment. Worth noting is the green coating seems to bond the globe into the holder so likely to break up when separating the two parts. In other words, be careful about little bits of glass pinging out. Might be easier to buy replacement holders too.

To remove the unit have found it necessary to loosen off the instrument cluster. Others may disagree, in which case they are cleverer than me.
 

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if you need to remove the screws hidden under the clear plastic sheet, simply cut an small X over the screw head with a razor blade. This will allow the phillips screwdriver to engage the screw head and it will self seal afterwards.

See those ribbon cables connecting the two halves together? there are 3 of them, two with 4 conductors and the middle one has ?16? as I recall? The solder joints on both sides get weak and break, which leads to your emergency flashers turning on by themselves, fuel door / trunk not working etc. Examine and reflow those joints on BOTH ends of the connector using a small pencil soldering iron

The mylar cable shown will eventually lose connection at the glass and PCB unless its jointed with ACF adhesive.

The 12V, 2W 'green base bulb' is an Audi part. You have to carefully remove the little green condom from the bad bulb, and install it on the new bulb.

The diffuser behind the LCD glass can become discolored due to the yellow adhesive used to attach it to the glass as it migrates/melts. This shows up as an irregular shadow on the LCD from the front. You can remove the glass carefully from the white plastic holder and clean the diffuser AND back of LCD glass carefully with acetone, and reassemble. This will remove the shadow.

If you have any questions about this just ask. I've repaired more than 100 of them over the years, the important tricks are noted above.
 

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That’s interesting Richard. I converted one from LHD to RHD the other weekend by just using a dremel to remove the screw tabs and glueing them to the other side. Is there a reason you had to open it up or was it just curiosity? Incidentally the ribbon cables still seem to be available (I have a pack of 5) if you ever need to repair the unit due to dead pixels!


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That’s interesting Richard. I converted one from LHD to RHD the other weekend by just using a dremel to remove the screw tabs and glueing them to the other side. Is there a reason you had to open it up or was it just curiosity? Incidentally the ribbon cables still seem to be available (I have a pack of 5) if you ever need to repair the unit due to dead pixels!


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Hi Dan,

Glad not the only one :)
Opened mine up as had a spare RHD unit and thought it better to swap over the fixing shroud rather than modify the LHD one. Also wanted to add protective tape over the ribbon cables, as abbrasion of the insulation caused burn-out between the thin LCD ribbon cable and thicker grey ribbon cables, making that LCD display fail.
Great to know the cables are still available and many thanks for the offer. Hopefully this unit will last really well now, especially with lower temperatures from swapping out the normal bulbs with LED ones.
That's the theory, at least.
Cheers,
Richard
 

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Your method is much more elegant than mine! I made the stupid mistake of flipping the tabs over so they were upside down. I had to remove and re-glue, of course loosing some length each time. In the end I made some square washers to add to the screws to make sure it was properly secured... at least my botch is covered with a trim panel!


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