I ordered 3/16" copper nickel brake line in a 25' roll and bent and flared all new brake lines using M10x1.0 and M12x1.0 fittings as needed. 3/16" is virtually the same as 4.75mm, which is the original spec.Hi,
Thanks for the link.
After posting the query did some more research and found pure copper pipe can work harden and crack but copper-nickel pipe doesn't. Twice the price but has to be worth it
Thanks. Good to know.I ordered 3/16" copper nickel brake line in a 25' roll and bent and flared all new brake lines using M10x1.0 and M12x1.0 fittings as needed. 3/16" is virtually the same as 4.75mm, which is the original spec.
Only thing I don't like about copper-nickel is the green patina it develops. I'd spray with some clear coat once you're done bending to keep them from turning green.
Here's a US source of material. Price isn't bad in my opinion: https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Nickel-Brake-Line-CN-316/dp/B00651OAVS
Interesting. Was there any particular reason for choosing steel? Know it is the original material used but don't they use it because it's much cheaper than copper-nickle? From a DIY point of view I'm not looking at steel because it is harder to work with and more prone to corrosion.I bought a 25' coil of 3/16" coated steel line from Advance Auto. I think it is called Poly Armour. I got my flaring kit from Harbor Freight. NOTES: I flared on the flat side of the vise. I supplemented the clamping force of the vise with a C-clamp to prevent the tube from slipping in the vise. I re-used the original fittings. Watch some you tube videos on bubble flaring.