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I periodically get an ABS warning light during the summer when I run errands. It usually happens if I have been driving the car around town for a while, stop the car to run quickly into a store and then restart the car. If I stop the car again and it cools off sufficiently, the light goes away. The consensus was that it is related to the quality of my brake fluid and is temperature related. I do not get this happening in the fall and winter months.

Jeff
 

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I know this is an old post, but I currently have a failed ABS pump. 3/4 valves were clogged. Front Right was open. I was able to get Rear Right open, but the flow is restricted. I can't get the left valves open but will continue to soak with denatured alcohol and try to blow them out.
If I can't clear them, I'm contemplating removing the ABS and trying a proportion valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There is already a front/back proportioning valve. Worth checking if still working properly if going to remove the ABS pump. Why not just source a replacement pump. Seems to be incredibly rare for them to fail so should be reasonably priced as used items.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They are hard to find. Took me a while to source one two years ago - ebay.it may still list them from time to time. Guess having the current one rebuilt if faulty is a worst case option. The sit in a really harsh environment, close to the road, so may be seized.
ABS unit wise, as far as am aware, there is no proportioning valve system in it, just a valve system to reduce pressure to a wheel sensed as locking. Personally, getting a used replacement item would be my first choice - with this working the anti-lock part can help circumvent the rear proportioning valve - if it has seized; assuming it hasn't seized in a way that over-restricts fluid flow to the rear brakes.
Hope that helps.
 

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Usual cause is failure to regularly flush entire brake system with new fluid. Every three years is wise, two years in damp climates.

The ABS distribution block gets contaminated with old brake fluid. Flushing it should work. The distribution block is not a pump. It controls brake line pressure by bypassing the line to the locking brake. It has a number of brake lines attached, one for each wheel in four channel systems, three lines only for systems using a common pressure control line to the rear brakes. The distribution block is pressurized by a separate ABS pump. Internally the distribution block can circulate brake fluid under pressure to create an individual line pressure control.

The ABS pressure pump is electric and either works or doesn't. It pressurizes a rubberized chamber, different component and should be trouble free unless it just fails to operate.
 

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Speculation: This seems to be an ABS unit with diagnostic software for series II car (1994-95), not 164S (1991-93). Maybe that's precisely what santo.j. needs--he doesn't say what model car he has.

The series II ABS has a diagnostic connection for the Fiat Lancia Tester.
 

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Hi Craig, thank you, I think this might be perfect, it is the same Bosch model number. I have a 1991 164L. Currently when blowing air through the inlet pictured left it comes out of VL only. When blowing through the inlet on the left it only comes out of HL. I got into this after tracing no fluid except front right, now I have both front right and rear right flowing.

It might be possible to use Craig's ABS, unhooking the electronic portion and replacing with my existing electronics so it won't need to be programmed again. Craig, I'll message you outside the chat. Thank you
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Speculation: This seems to be an ABS unit with diagnostic software for series II car (1994-95), not 164S (1991-93). Maybe that's precisely what santo.j. needs--he doesn't say what model car he has.

The series II ABS has a diagnostic connection for the Fiat Lancia Tester.
Can I hook up my FLT and test unit if not in car? For CDS have to have hooked up and key on, just curious about ABS
 

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I'm a novice and learning as I go with this car. Is it possible to test by blowing air at about 30 PSI of pressure through each inlet on the side. If air flows out to the corresponding HR+VL & HL&VR, then the pump it's self would have no blocked valves.
In the case of my car, I have 31 years of maintenance records, and unfortunately the fluid had never been flushed. The front pads/rotors were replaced in 2017, but no mention of flushing the fluid
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you have a replacement ABS unit with the same part number on it should be a direct swap.
The entire brake fluid got changed on mine 2 (3?) years ago when changed all brake calipers, most brake lines, rear balancer and brake master. Running Dot 5 fluid now (not silicon) and being new fluid the rear calipers (also because they are new) are far less prone to sticking. Am aiming to put in Dot 5 silicon after the winter - when change clutch master and remove clutch 'doughnut'. Silicon doesn't absorb water the way mineral brake fluid does. Had it in my X1/9 and was a brilliant upgrade.
 
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