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164 24v serpentine tensioner pivot rebuild

4K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  Evgeny 164 
#1 ·
Hi,

In the process of dropping new pivot bearings into the serpentine belt tensioner for a 3.0 24v 164.

Got two new bearings, OD20mm, HK1414RS, and went to push the old ones out today only to realise they sit in a 21mm OD sleeve.

Can't think of any way of pushing the old bearings out of this sleeve without ruining it as it has a flat at one end so been trying to source some equivalent. Trouble is the wall thickness is on 0.5mm and 21mm OD is a really odd size to try and source.

Anyone know the original part number for this item or able to suggest any other options?

Pics below, thanks.
 

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#2 ·
Update:

The option looking into is for 21mm OD bearings. These have 15mm ID instead of 14mm but can buy 15mm pipe to act as sleeve on the inside - in theory. Going to measure the actual pivot central rod tomorrow but if it is 14mm will need a pipe with a 0.5mm wall thickness. Closest so far are copper pipe at 0.7mm and brass pipe at 0.225mm - neither ideal. Still looking...
 
#3 ·
I replace this needle bearings every 2 years or 50 000 km. After 25 000 km it will look like on your photos.
But they will be able to work even 1 year. If you use a water-repellent grease. The original bearing I could not find. I used bearings which are located in the clutch flywheel alfa 75. They are available for sale.
But.It outer diameter has more 1 mm. And the same inner diameter greater than the original.
I changed the outer diameter of the bracket. Then I made a new shaft, mine shaft was corrosion. The new shaft I made with a smaller diameter and produced a removable sleeve. Which are replaced with new bearings. Now the shaft is still not damaged by corrosion.
This procedure needs metalworking machines. For sleeve require heat treatment and grinding. If such a procedure is possible for you. I will try to make a detailed description with the size and pictures of this.
 
#7 ·
Hi,

Can you confirm what size the bore is on the housing? Just tried pressing these out forcing a 13mm socket (19mm OD) through - got a 22mm socket on other end to push them in to. Stopped because didn't seemed to budge. Using an M8 8.8 grade bolt to do the forcing. Before applying more pressure can you confirm I'm correct in my procedure?

Thanks
 
#10 ·
Hi,
Many thanks for the great info. One extra query:
The bearings are HK1414RS. Doesn't the 1414 refer to 14mm ID and 14mm length, not 15mm?
The HK1414RS bearings I've got are OD 20mm, not 21mm, which seems to be standard for 1414s.

Is the sleeve you show in your latest post standard? Don't have a sleeve like that on mine - the bearings sit directly on the pivot.

Many thanks
 
#11 ·
Job done! :)

Thanks to Evengy 164, stopped trying to force the bearings through from one side because there is a raised ridge in the middle. Instead took his advice and hammered them outwards using a screwdriver and into a large socket - took even less than 5 mins.

Added lithium grease and tried pressing in the new bearings (HK1414RS - 20mmOD, 14mm length, 14mm ID) by winding in a long bolt that ran through them both but gave up. Couldn't keep them on centre - so out with the hammer again. Didn't hit the bearings themselves but a 2mm bit of steel sheet to spread the load. When the bearings leant a little to one side, I hit them on the opposite side. With a bit of care and a bit of force, they went in fine.

Job done. Yay :)
 

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#15 ·
I was thinking since it's difficult to get these bearings, why not modify the bracket to accommodate a concentric bearing instead of an eccentric one? Like a Dayco 89007 76mm concentric? All we need to do is to weld the existing hole and redrill and tap it. There must be a purpose why an eccentric mount was used, but I'm not quite sure why. I

'm willing to experiment on this. The Dayco bearing is only $20. In fact for my 75 3.2 24V I am going to experiment with generic bearings available locally while the engine is out of the car.
 
#19 ·
Hi folks.

I have a question about the spring loaded tensioner for the serpentine belt - the parts manual calls it a "plunger" - part 60561380 . It looks like it should contain oil as a damper - mine certainly doesn't have any left in it! Does anyone know how much oil this should contain?
 
#25 ·
Yes, the price is not adequate. Most importantly, after some time these bearings will rust again. I think that this tensioner should be replaced completely with something else more modern.
 
#27 ·
I plan on replacing my timing belt shortly and will be looking at these bearings very closely. Are these needle bearings available at most bearing shops or just order online? I have a machine shop available if I need something made to replace the shaft that might be corroded. The best thing to do is print this thread and take it with the part to the machine shop if necessary. :)
 
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