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Discussion Starter #1
I've got the sinking feeling (i.e. oil leak) that the guy who rebuilt
my 1600 engine left out some bits inside the Fram oil filter canister.
I've got the orange canister, the long bolt with external copper
washer that runs through it, a spring with base plate. That's it.What
am I missing in there?
Thanks,
Vince Coppola
 

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Where is it leaking from? Around the interface between the steel canister and the aluminum casting that attaches to the block? Or, under the head of the long bolt that holds the canister on?

A part missing inside the canister might result in oil not flowing through the filter, but I can't see how it would cause an external oil leak. But then too, I don't know where your engine is leaking.

As the respondent suggested on the 750/101 list, convert it to a spin-on, and solve several problems at once.
 

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Because you talk about an orange Fram filter, I'm not sure what you mean. I'm assuming you're using "Fram" as a generic term for oil filter. I'm also assuming the canister you refer to was painted; the metal on my '67 GTV was black when it came from the factory.

A disposable filter goes inside the canister and a rubber seal (o-ring) goes in the circular groove in the block, where the metal canister presses against. I have a 2L motor in the car now, but when the 1600 and 1750 were in it, I always bought filters several at a time from Centerline or IAP. The filters should come with new o-rings.

The rubber o-ring can be the problem if you don't get the old one out and you put a new one on top of it. I used an x-acto knife blade to pick out the old o-ring. You can't see the o-ring when the engine is in the car, but the x-acto blade made quick work of either getting out the o-ring or making sure it had fallen out when the canister came off.

It's also possible to twist the o-ring when installing it or to fasten down the canister so it's slightly off center. Both will cause leaks.

When you push the cannister on, you have to hold it up against the o-ring and housing as you tighten it down. You can feel around the edge of the canister once it's in, to make sure it is seated in the groove.

If you have an entirely different type of oil filter, just disregard the above and apply the old adage that to assume makes an *** out of ...
 

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An easy solution. Take the canister off and make sure that the rubber 'O' ring is there and not broken, crushed or someway not sitting in its groove. If in doubt replace and refit carefully. Check the washer at the base of the canister and replace if necessary. If all the above is OK the problem is something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks all. My leak is around the head of the long bolt outside the canister. I'll replace that copper washer. But it's also clear I'm missing some washers inside the canister that apparently center the filter in place.
 

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1600 oil filter assemblies and variations

Sorry I wasn't around earlier for this. Alfa used several different Mfg cannister assemblies on the 1600's. They range from rare (lightweight) to common (heavier). If you will study the parts book, I believe two or three variations are shown, Fram, Fispa, and perhaps another. They all feature like internal construction, and all work exactly the same way. The parts book internal pictures shows all the guts. The difference is the lightweight unit, and I haven't it nearby as I'm on vacation, and cannot remember its Mfg.:confused:. It has a rubber plug in the bottom of it in a cavity that surrounds the through bolt, and is compressed by a washer, (as the rubber is longer than the hole) to seal both the through bolt, and the canister body as the bolt is tightened. This unit has a dished bottom canister, as compared to the pointed bottom canister (like Fram's) and the canister is much lighter weight. The others, I believe, with the pointed bottoms, use a copper sealing washer on the through bolt. Again, refer to the parts book diagrams for internals. Though the internals are NOT interchangable, the designs are similar:rolleyes:, and you can see what might be missing. I will return to my shop the 10th (or so), and have a collection of all these units and can send photo's and/or diagrams and possibly supply any internals you need. If you have NOT solved the problem, send me a PM. :DGordon Raymond
 

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There were actually six different oil canister suppliers;
Comit, Falcos, Fiamm, Filt, Fispa and Fram.
Pic below is of the early Fram unit from the parts book.

Gary,
The canisters did come in different colors depending on the manufacturer. The Fiamm canisters, for example, are dark green.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
oil filter canister

Hey Jim:
Thanks to you and the other guys who've posted helpful messages on this oil filter. The diagram you've posted is unlike my Fram filter which among other differences doesn't have sending units on the top. If you have an image of the Fram assembly internals (the bottom is shaped like a bomb not concave and the long bolt runs bottom-to-top) i.e., the spring and washers that locate the filter inside the canister, I'd sure appreciate it. Best, Vince
 

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Modern stuff!

Much better papajam! I thought I was mis remembering once again:confused:! That aging disorder, whattzit, CRS? I don't have any of the new ones with all those neat electronic switch gizmos:cool:. You made me feel better:rolleyes:! Thanks!
:DGordon Raymond
 

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Vince,
Yep, you need the big stepped washer at the bottom of the filter element. Without it, the filter is not seated against the upper washer, and you're really not getting any flow through the element itself. Oil is just passing through the cannister and not through the actual filter element, so it's just a circulation of unfiltered oil. The oil leak at the bottom of the cannister may be that the rubber seal at the base of the cannister is missing / broken / poorly seated.
Jim
 

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Source for whole filter assembly

Vince,
As I mentioned, I may have one in my shop. BUT I'm on vacation, not there. :rolleyes: However a friend, Al Promisco, has the whole greasy, rusty, horrid assembly:)p) in a bucket in his shop. Give him a call at 847-480-8980. Use my name, tell him it's the Fram one, in the greasy bucket next to the sand blast machine. He will want to know how you know it's there:confused:. Tell him I'm your spy. PAY him +ups !;)
Best, :DGordon Raymond
 

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I've seen the Fram filter canister in its OE condition and it's the same orange Fram uses on their spin-on filters we're all so familiar with. So, if you're a nit-picker, keep yours orange. And liven up your engine compartment a bit in the doing. :)

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #17
fram canister internals

Gordon:
Al Promisco is neither promising nor promiscuous with his phone calls. I tried him, as you suggested to hunt down the Fram canister internals. Have not heard back. Seriously, thanks for your help, and no more long vacations, too many of us rely on you.
Best, Vince Coppola
 

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Here's a period photo from an Alfa brochure showing a Ti 1600 engine with a Fram oil filter canister. Wish it were sharper... Hope it helps.

Chuck
 

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Great historical photo! But... wasn't the generator supposed to be cad plated, and the strap around it black? Perhaps on earlier versions?
Gordon Raymond
 

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Great historical photo! But... wasn't the generator supposed to be cad plated, and the strap around it black? Perhaps on earlier versions?
Gordon Raymond
Yep, that's the way my earlier Giulias (101 series) were (cad casing / black strap over the brushes). Oh, and the orange Fram filter canister must have started with the 105 series -- but I'm not positive on that one.
Jim
 
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