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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings all. I am working on installing a bluetooth version of the 123 distributor and have a couple of questions:
1. When first setting up, it says to turn the distributor counter clockwise just until a green LED light comes on. However, there are a series of small slot/windows where the LED can be visible through, and it's evident that the LED is being hidden under the plate but is on when I'm first turning the distributor. In this case, should I continue turning until it turns off, and then turns back on again at the next point where it is fully visible? Photo attached with a point to the "windows" I'm referring to.
2. I have the crank at the static timing point (which I have set at 3 degree BTDC). The 123 instructions suggest that the rotor should be pointing to one of the posts on the distirbutor, and this will be for cylinder number one. However, the rotor is pointing to a place probably 20 degree shy of the next plug wire post. Trying to figure out if I should just call that cylinder 1, or if something doesn't seem aligned right. Thanks all.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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For the Bluetooth version you want to have the engine at TDC (the P mark, not the F static advance point) when you do the LED setup. This is so when you program it you just program the curve you want (e.g., the curve you program starts at 0 static advance, so if you want 6 degrees at idle you just program a curve that has 6 degrees from like 0-1000 RPM).

It doesn't matter how exactly the body of the distributor is rotated or which of the holes you can see the light through. So yeah, just rotate it until the wires come out in a reasonable direction and so you can see the light when it just comes on. Then lock down the distributor and you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Gubi. While I don't doubt your experience, I guess I'm just a little perplexed as the instruction manual which came with the 123 says to start the install at the static timing point. Hmm

What are your thoughts on where the rotor is pointing when the light comes on? Again, in my case the rotor is maybe 20 degrees shy of the next wire post, should I just assign that as cylinder one since it's the closest, even though it would seem like right now it will be firing after TDC?

Thanks again.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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I think that's just unclear English in the instructions. It says static timing point (which is P), not static timing advance (which would be F).

In any case, you want it set up so that TDC is "zero advance". That way you don't need to know any sort of static advance to program it: if you want 36 degrees max advance, you just program your curve to hit 36. I've set two programmable units up this way and I can tell you they both work fine.

I don't know what to tell you about the rotor direction, I don't recall any issues after setup determining which post would be #1. I would suggest retiming at TDC, doing the body rotation again, and then seeing where you wind up: maybe that will sort it out.

If not, I do recall somebody having an issue where the shaft drive piece on the 123 they got was mounted off by like 90 degrees? But I don't remember the details or resolution...maybe do a search?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cool, thanks Gubi. I'll be down at my shop later today and will look at it with fresh eyes and the crank at TDC. Much appreciated.
 

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Maybe the instructions have been copied in part from the switchable curve type where you do have to mark the static timing point to use the LED.
 

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My thought is that it doesn't really matter if the engine is at TDC firing #1 or the static timing for #1 firing when you put it on, as they are so close. Undoubtedly, you will tweak the position of the distributor when the engine is running, based on what you see with your timing light. The 4 slots give you freedom to mount the distributor in your desired position - either to give you easy access to the microswitch to change curves or so that the feed wires are nicely positioned or to prevent the cap clips fouling on something e.g. cooling hose. Watch out for those clips, I find them less springy than I would expect.
 
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