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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,
Does anybody have a set of 10548 cams laying around they'd like to sell? There are a pair on eBay for $400, shipped. However apparently they used to sell around $150 for the pair. If $400 for the pair is a good deal, please feel free to tell me to suck it up and buy those!

Starting to rebuild my 1600 for my Super and would like the cams!

Thanks!
Chase
 

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$400 is way too much. I recently sold a pair of lightly used RJR cams on the ABB for less than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the few PM's so far, however the hunt continues! Anybody have a pair?
 

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I would look for just one 10548 cam for a 1600.
On some excellent advice here, I used a 10548 cam on the intake and the standard Veloce cam on the exhaust of my '67 Duetto.
Closed the valve lash up to .o14 intake and .o16 exhaust. Cams timed to the factory marks.
Best running 1600 motor I've ever had !!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, but I'm looking for the euro 1750 cams. I'm pretty sure those were the hottest stock cams Alfa made that'll work in my 1600.

At this point I may end up going with new ones from Spruell, and just order it with the rest of the street race rebuild kit.

I appreciate the offer though!
 

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Contact Alfar7 on the BB first, if he does not have what you need, he may have something even better. Won't be $150, but worth his price for custom cams for your application. If you have doubts, check with any of his cam customers.
From my experiences.
 

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I bought a 1750 head and cams in Vancouver BC some time ago. Probably carb type. On
way home from Warwick. Long drive back To Oregon. Should be back by Monday and I will check.
Cheers, Jon
 

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Richard Jemison
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Cams for 1750

I wouldn`t run two of the 10548-01 (10mm) cams. Use one for the intake, and find a series 4 (Motronic) exhaust cam these have a better "exhaust" lobe profile (less overlap) that will make both far better torque and HP.
I have a pair of these I will sell for $250.00 shipped in the cont. USA.

I wouldn`t suggest running the 10548-51 (11mm) cams as pairs either. (again too much overlap old lobe profile designs).

Below is an email from a Australian customer that wanted to buy a pair of my cams to replace 10548-51 cams due to drivability issues. I suggested using only a real exhaust cam profile (RjR1195+3(6) ) with his 10548-51 cam on the intake, and his result is below"
As well I have attached my responce suggestin better cam timing to resolve his high rpm power complaint


In a message dated 6/30/2015 12:06:20 A.M. Central Daylight Time, [email protected] writes:
Hi Richard,

I thought that I should drop you an email to let you know how things
turned out with my camshaft change.
I have driven the car enough now to fully appreciate the changes. The
car has responded very well to the new exhaust cam. It is much more
drivable now, and as you suggested the issues that seemed to indicate
too large venturis have all but disappeared. The engine is much happier
in the 2000 to 3500 rpm band where it was intractable before. Driving
in traffic is easy now!
Following your setup instructions I was only able to get to 107.5
degrees centreline on the exhaust cam due to valve to piston clearance
instead of the 105 degrees that you recommended. The inlet was OK at
your recommended 106 degrees. I set the valve clearances at .020" Inlet
and .010"Exhaust. I had the engine out on the bench so doing the
install and setup was easy - you can trust my numbers!
I do have one question for you... I am pretty certain that the engine
does not make as much top end power as it used to. Don't worry!!! It
was a good trade off! But, without returning to the dyno, I used a
piece of road that I have used before to test top end power. In 5th the
engine with the "51" cam pair could pull about 6200 - 6300 rpm. Now it
seems to hit a wall at 6000.
Now, either one of those speeds is enough to get you thrown in jail down
here, so it's unimportant... but I do wonder what your thoughts are on
the peak output question.

As I said, I love the change in the car and am very pleased that I chose
this camshaft. I am wondering what the results might be if I was to
install one of your inlet grinds in the car, possibly with a mechanical
variator.

Regards,
Doug

David,
Glad the results were as I had expected.
The "Power" at high RPM loss(?) is odd.
I suspect from your email that cam timing is the problem.

Basically the desired cam lobe spacing (LSA center point is a bit off) To get more upper RPM I suggest you close the lash on the intake cam to.016-.017. You only need 1mm(.040) P to V clearance on the intake side.

Try that and see what happens. If better, as a next test retard the intake cam. Change the LC on the INTAKE cam retarding it to 107.5 (one hole on the sprocket which is 1.5 degrees) (PS this will increase P to V clearance so no worries.

If that makes it better see if retarding the exhaust one hole (1.5 degrees) to 106 will allow .070 P to V clearance. That is adequate on the 11mm cams. This change along with retarding the intake should make better mid/high RPM power.

Let me know the results!

I wouldn't get involved with VVT as a better designed intake cam will be an improvement but cam timing should improve your output.
Rj






Rj
 
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