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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all.
My 1974 GVT 2000 is pulling right when I brake or decelerate and pulls left when accelerating. It’s quite pronounced as I have to correct with the steering wheel.
I have recently had he car at the MOT and the inspector mentioned that he could not see any problems with the bushings.
When driving at constant speed the car is ok and it drives on a straight line.

Any thoughts or ideas to correct this problem?

Thank you.
JB
 

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The usual: When did this start happening ? It hasn't just been like that since it was built, right ? :)
Any clunks ?

It can only be a few things, to my mind:
- bad bushings
- broken spring
- steering links assembled incorrectly (ie parts put together differently side to side)
- Very different lengths of steering track rods on either side (ie wrong procedure used in steering alignment)

Here in Spain, the ITV (MOT) guys don't do any testing of the rear end, only the front....
/Neil
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Neil.
Bought the car and it was already like this. Talked to the previous owner and he told me never to have noticed this. Typical…
No clunks and car drives on a straight line not pulling to any the sides.
It’s really only when breaking or accelerating that I need to correct with the steering wheel.
The MOT in Portugal gets an inspector under the car at the same time the wheels are moved fwd/bck and side to side by a platform. He told me that all the bushings were ok.

I did check another alfa forum for more recent Alfas and there is a similar entry. The solution was to change the wishbones. This is quite an expensive part so I would really try to avoid doing that unless I know for sure to be coming from there.

Thanks
JB
 

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Yes, but the push/pull platform testing you're talking about is only on the front wheels (in Spain and in Germany at least, don't know Portugal). Hence, they don't have a clue about the rear end bushings, as they're not testing them... All I mean is that I wouldn't trust what they say to also apply to the rear end.

It's not going to be the front lower A-arms being bent, no. If you look at the parts involved you'll see why (very strong).

/Neil
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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This is a common symptom of worn trunnion bushings at the rear. The trunnion is the three-lobed piece that links the differential to two points at the body. Usually the trunnion-body bushings are okay but the little conical ones at the diff are shot.
 

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Rear Axle moving about.
My bet would be either diff housing bush, or lower trailing arm bushes gone soft,
Steve
 

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I had the same symptoms on my Alfetta GT. New Watts link bushes cured it totally. It was, as Steve/GTAR suggests, the rear axle moving around. Other threads on the BB suggest that nylon bushes at the diff are worth it for their superior location qualities, and still pretty cheap. Don't rush to nylon for the other bushes tho, without reading a few other threads.
 

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I had that problem with my Sprint GT after a couple of hundred thousand miles on it. Turned out to be the trailing arm bushings worn out. Replaced them and no more problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello to all.
It’s quite strange to have a problem on the rear diff but this really seems to be the only logical origin of the problem. To make things even more strange the MOT in Portugal tests both front and rear suspension bushings with the push/pull platforms. So the guy at the MOT was under the car looking at the rear and front suspension while the platforms were forcing the suspension to move. Would this test be enough to detect a problem on the trailing arm bushings, diff housing bush or worn trunnion bushings?

Thanks.
JB
 

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Hello to all.
It’s quite strange to have a problem on the rear diff but this really seems to be the only logical origin of the problem. To make things even more strange the MOT in Portugal tests both front and rear suspension bushings with the push/pull platforms. So the guy at the MOT was under the car looking at the rear and front suspension while the platforms were forcing the suspension to move. Would this test be enough to detect a problem on the trailing arm bushings, diff housing bush or worn trunnion bushings?

Thanks.
JB
Hi, no this is no indicator of worn bushes, unless they are so bad that the inner metal tube has separated from the rubber !
They can look ok, and feel ok when they're under the load of the weight of the car, but be well worn, causing the axle to move about.
On my first 105, they all looked good, and didn't show any real slackness when tested with a pry bar.
Changed them and it transformed the issue, completely.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for the ideas. I'll start to disassemble the diff housing bush and lower trailing arm bushes to take a look at them.
Will only be able to do this at the end of January. Will be sure to put the result here.

JB
 

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Jack the front up and see if a brake is sticking after you apply and release pressure. Could be a collapsed front soft brake line
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Flivesay,
I have checked the brakes already. Changed the brake pads from one side to another and also changed the brake lines for steel braided ones. The master cylinder was also changed for a new one as the old one was leaking. Did not solve it. I will try the rear suspension ideas discussed here and revert back to the forum with results.
Thanks
JB
 

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steer by throttle

I had that happen on my 1963 Giulia Spider many years ago driving to work. Push on the gas it went one way. Brake the other. I played with that all the way to work.

Kept playing with it on the way home. Till the bracket that locates the trailing arm tore off the axle. Then it was all stop.

They sell reinforcements for those. you might want to eyeball the welds.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello.
Sorry for all this time with no news but I could not find the time to work on the car.

The diff housing bush and lower trailing arm bushes were all replaced. I also installed the first series gearbox mount to prevent that bang bang bang noise when accelerating and the engine passes between 2000RPM and 2500RPM.

Results:
1. the car is no longer pulling left when accelerating. Problem solved.
2. pulling right under braking is still a problem. I tried changing the brake pads from left to right and it changed the behaviour. So I installed new brake pads on both sides. It helped because the right pull under braking is not so strong now but it is still there. If I turn the steering wheel a bit to the left and brake the car stays on the straight line even if I take the hands of the steering wheel. But if brake when driving on the strait line it immediately pulls right. Any ideas to solve this?
3. gearbox mount - now I sorted the bang bang bang noise but I have a lot of vibrations on the car. Anyone with similar problems?

I'm determined to sort out all these anoying problems but need fresh ideas.

Thank you for the help.
JB
 

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2. pulling right under braking is still a problem. I tried changing the brake pads from left to right and it changed the behaviour. So I installed new brake pads on both sides. It helped because the right pull under braking is not so strong now but it is still there. If I turn the steering wheel a bit to the left and brake the car stays on the straight line even if I take the hands of the steering wheel. But if brake when driving on the strait line it immediately pulls right. Any ideas to solve this?
If all the ball joints and bushings in the front suspension are in good order, then this may be a seized piston in a caliper. Were the front pads that you removed all worn evenly? Or did one caliper yield a pair of pads that were significantly uneven?
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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I also installed the first series gearbox mount to prevent that bang bang bang noise when accelerating and the engine passes between 2000RPM and 2500RPM.
Wait, you mean the earlier, more solid transmission bushing with the hole centered? That's not a great idea. The transmission bushing needs to be pretty soft or you get nasty vibrations (as you've found out).

The other problem is that the earlier transmission mount has the mounting hole centered while the proper one for your GTV has the mounting hole offset. So this might be screwing up your prop shaft alignment.

What I've heard of folks doing is using the correct transmission mount, but putting a piece of hose in the big opening in the rubber to slightly stiffen it up. This can prevent the bumping but avoids vibration problems. I have not tried this myself, however.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hello.
Gearbox - yes more vibrations than what I would like. But that bang on the gear box is completely gone which is positive. I've read on this forum about this and some owners have gone to this solid transmission bushing.

Brakes - Yes the removed pads were worn evenly but one had a greasy stuff on it. I suspect previous owner used some cleaning agent or similar and that reduced the brake pad efficiency. I assembled new brake pads to try to overcome it and the problem is almost gone but still there. So I must also be having another problem, most probably with the front suspension.

Any ideas where to start on the front suspension?
 

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Brakes - Yes the removed pads were worn evenly but one had a greasy stuff on it. I suspect previous owner used some cleaning agent or similar and that reduced the brake pad efficiency. I assembled new brake pads to try to overcome it and the problem is almost gone but still there.
Did you clean the brake discs before installing the pads? If there was "greasy stuff" on one of the pads, it would also be on the disc surface - failure to clean it off before installing fresh pads would result in contamination of the new pads, and the problem still existing.


So I must also be having another problem, most probably with the front suspension.

Any ideas where to start on the front suspension?
Check for play in all of the tie rod ends in the steering linkage as a starter. Play in the castor control ball joint can also be an issue - I know of someone who had ignored worn ball joints here and suffered a ball joint failure and destroyed the car in the ensuing accident...
 
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