Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

i have the oppourtunity to buy a 73 gtv2000, its in a bit of a state.
not running, rust around screens, front panel, boot surround. its was imported to nz around 1985 from aussie and is pretty original mechanically, steel wheels etc. but there is some evidence of dodgy bodywork repairs in the past.

whats a ballpark figure it would be worth in your opinion?

Cheers
Richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
105 gtv2000 price? - Don't do it

A buggered import isn't worth the effort (at least the moment) - Look at the trials of Rpcas with a NZ 1750

Offer to buy it for $1000, PART IT OUT and spend the $$ on your racecar.

If the cars still rego'd (or on hold) and you've got good industry contacts - particulary panel beaters, you might :confused: be able to restore it on a budget of $12K but otherwise think around $15-20K

This from experience (and I'm still going)
Plus one less on the road makes mine more valuable:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
hi John cheers for that

what makes an import less than a nz new car? is it still the same spec as nz cars, seems to be to me? im still relativly new to 105s.

i wouldnt be doing an all out resto on the car more fixing it up into a fast roadcar, as my holden tow car isnt much fun in the twistys. i feel its a good car to do this with as it isnt the most desirable like a 1750 would be.

btw hows your resto going? must be nearly done now?

Cheers
richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
so much for anonymity...

I think a NZ 'new' car with a history always seems a safer option than an imported one with an unknown past. Think along the same lines as a *** Import vs a NZ new car. Sure the value is 'better' and all that, but the buyers perception is the unknown factor.
Regardless of the cars origin, the repair/restoration costs are pretty much the same, so I believe money is better spent on a car that could achieve a higher ultimate return should the need to sell arise.
That's my thoughts anyway (which I guess has been made a mockery of with the recent Trademe South African GTV that passed in at $30K)

The biggest cost in a resto is the panel and paint. Any visible signs of major or critical panel repair work could trigger/require certification to get it rego'd. Would be best if you could get it transported to the L/Hutt VTNZ and get a pre compliance check done (..not sure of the correct term - sort of a more detailed WOF)- About $68. This will Identify areas requiring attention /certification.
It'd be money well spent as you will get a better picture of what the likely repairs and certification extents will be. If you have to get a certifier involved you're in for a long journey.

I haven't looked closely at the similarity of the OZ/NZ 2000GTV's but would say they are very similar (as the 1750's are).

I didn't think Holdens where even fun on the straights???? (sorry ex ford family so it's a genetic thing).

Mines slowly being molded into a single piece - Panel / Paint done, Brakes done and wiring 90% done, Engine recon'd but still shortblocked, Garage shelves full of new bits - But as I said it's a long journey.. Definitly would have been quicker (and cheaper) to buy a Sprint or Sud for fun

Will try to get along to another meeting soon - Community commitments on Wednesdays have pretty well buggered me for the last year & 1/2

Cheers
Jon
 

·
Registered
`61 Giulietta Spider, `65 Giulia Ti 1750, `69 GT junior 1600, `73 Spider 2000, `74 GTV 2000, `98 156
Joined
·
1,922 Posts
The reality is at our current tough economic times any classic that isn`t registered and warranted ready to drive is worth very little. The fact the car is from Australia isn`t negative - if it was ex USA and this model it would be. It is basically worth whatever you and the seller can agree on but my thinking is any 105 coupe if half pie sound -meaning not too much structural rust-has got to be $5k as is. If you can do your own body work it will still cost but you`ll save thousands. Mechanicals are simple and relatively cheap. If you are serious about getting a 105 they aren`t going to be cheaper...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Hi Richard B

Hi Richard. Not a 105 but similar (a 115) and the same sort of era.

Mark Rankin purchased this for 8K and then I swapped it for my Sud after he worked out it was to much work for him, so basically I purchased it for 8K. See the link. Probally spent another 5K on it

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-restoration/153227-74-spider-junior-restoration.html

Resonable indicaion of what you can get for the money

What else is news in Welly

Mark Ash
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
Mark -- you are talking to Richard H not Richard B , hi to Richard B anyway.
Jon -- good analysis of situation but "one less on the road" -- shame on you.
Richard -- that shell I have sitting waiting to be turned into something cost me $500 on Trade Me, its very incomplete but sound and as the basis for a project probably better than a complete car full of bog. Thats probably the starting point.
I'd say negotiate really hard based on what the panels look like and then build an Alfaholics GTAr style car not worrying too much about originality, you are going to want it handling really well anyway. I have just discovered that I have been running two different sizes of aux venturis so willing be coming to at least one more intermarque to do some testing - talk to you about it then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
Couple more thoughts
Which carbs does it have -- scrap value $400 different depending on Weber or Solex. Is the LSD there? etc.
Panels are not available second hand in NZ or if they are very pricey.
I could do you a kitset non rusty Berlina for very little -- better to drive and could turn out cooler -- who knows? It was the gangster car of choice back in the day and Bruce Airns in Chch is making flares that I think look like the black car.
Then again stick to the coupe -- its what you , I and everybody wants.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Well bugger, what are the chances

I thought what are the chances of two Richard's, in Wellington, having a yellow Sprint and a White 16V 33. Clearly higher than I thought! Sorry for the confusion guys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Knowing from experience it really isn't about what the market as a whole thinks its worth. Only one person needs to want it for the right price. I have eventually sold my 1750 for a good price and quite a few people looking at it for just below what I would accept (and my price was selling it at cost).

I would say on the low side for the value of this 73 GTV by the sounds of it (plus you want to get a good deal). $1000-2500 maybe. Although there was a GTV on Trademe quite a while ago (the guy had two cars, both pretty shocking) and it went or $4500 I believe.

These cars really do not have a set value.
 

·
Registered
`61 Giulietta Spider, `65 Giulia Ti 1750, `69 GT junior 1600, `73 Spider 2000, `74 GTV 2000, `98 156
Joined
·
1,922 Posts
The thing is though rpcas your car and the way it was presented for sale was far too intimidating for most punters-a complete car even if not as sound possibly as your partially fixed but far from complete car is far less daunting for Joe Average. It is a market fact an untidy but complete car is a b etter proposition to sell.
Glad to hear you sold yours-hopefully to someone in Canterbury.
I`d be rapt to get a Bertone Coupe for 1000-2500 if it was complete and in half pie reasonable condition-I really would think I had a bargain but then I do all my own resto work. Different if I was a cheque book restorer though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Yes that is probably true. My experience selling it proved that almost everyone looking had a different value in mind depending on what work they were doing themselves and what condition they wanted to get it to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,514 Posts
I've owned a number of 105's on both sides of the ditch and I struggle to find any differences between them. They're essentially british spec RHD cars of the era, apart from maybe later ones with metric rather than imperial gauges (and even then it's inconsistent). When you get to 116 and 113 series cars things like the Australian emission and seat belt ADR's start to show up but not on a 105.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top