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I tried mounting the 101 oil filter to the 105 Block. Turns out this will not bolt up as the bolt centers are way different. Approx. 54mm for the 105 block and maybe 41mm for the 101 Block.
Gee, I'm surprised by that. But Gordon seems to know about this issue.

My knowledge base comes from adapting a 1750 block to a 101 Giulia chassis a long time ago (like 25 years), so my memory may be a bit unreliable. I had remembered that a 1600 oil filter housing had just bolted to the 1750 block. And I'd assume that your 105 1300 block was similar to the 1750.

Is it possible that there were different 101 blocks & oil filter designs? Some with the wider, ~54mm spacing? Or is my old memory just faulty? (which would be no surprise)
 

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I believe they were Jay. I mounted a 1600 COMET filter on a 1750. The 105 1300 block must have a different set up.
 

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At least the gasket between filter housing and engine block is different between 750/101 and 105 engines.
Even the 1600 101 cars kept the 750 (1315.xxxxx) type gasket, so I guess the change came indeed with the introduction of the 105 engine.
 

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purchased a 1300 from a 72? Giulia Super to put in my 62 Giulietta Spider. Oil Pan is slightly different.
Is it acceptable practice to modify the cast alu sump from the 101 engine to replace the Bat Wing sump on the 105 motor.
Looks like holes need to be drilled or studs need to pulled out of the block.
Any other known issues besides the Oil filter canister, which is detailed on other forums?
I was told the engine would fit, motor mounts bolt up and flywheel/bellhousing fit.
Appreciate all comments, but please, no need to tell me I should just put the original back in...I think I know that would be best if possible.
I checked my 102 block ('60 Giulietta 1300N), a 502 block ('64 Sprint GT 1600) and a 536 block ('67 GTV 1600). All three blocks have the same 54mm spacing for the oil filter housing, so you should be able to find a 101 filter housing with the desired spacing.

Jim
in San Antonio
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Update: I found and purchased the correct canister assembly on Ebay. I have removed the two additional studs. Today I will scribe and remove the interfering flange from the Block and fabricate a support from the center main cap for the 101 oil pump scavenger. I want to thank everyone for all the help!
 

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The center main support is pretty easy, you just need a bracket that goes under the 2 nuts on the center main and supports or carries the 101 Normale pump suction head. It doesn't have to be over engineered, the function is to prevent vibration on the long filter neck. Mine are metal U arches with L shaped feet for going under the main cap nuts. I then have a second triangular piece which fits on the pump suction head - this is Z shaped to bring both pieces in line together as the metal U arch is on one side of the main cap not the bottom like the 750/101 originals. where the U & the triangular Z bolt together is slotted just a little bit to make sure that nothing is forced when everything is fastened down tightly.

The thickness of the metal feet takes up the room for the Palmutter lock nuts, so I use Locktite on everything & you absolutely need the original bearing cap washers on top of the metal feet as they are hardened and ground square and responsible for setting & maintaining the correct torque - the feet of the bracket will be soft mild steel and will deform if you pull the nuts directly onto them.

Ciao
Greig
 

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purchased a 1300 from a 72? Giulia Super to put in my 62 Giulietta Spider. Oil Pan is slightly different.
Is it acceptable practice to modify the cast alu sump from the 101 engine to replace the Bat Wing sump on the 105 motor.
Looks like holes need to be drilled or studs need to pulled out of the block.
Any other known issues besides the Oil filter canister, which is detailed on other forums?
I was told the engine would fit, motor mounts bolt up and flywheel/bellhousing fit.
Appreciate all comments, but please, no need to tell me I should just put the original back in...I think I know that would be best if possible.
Isn’t the 101 alloy pan for the veloce motor?
Would converting to a remote filter be too much of a departure from original appearance ? About the extra oil pan studs:
A possible solution could be installing longer bolts to accommodate a “bridge” brace over the span where the studs would be.????
 

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Well, yes and no. There is a "3-piece" (actually more) 101 casting number Veloce sump that will work fine, is available as a reproduction, complete, from Ok Parts and Engineering in Germany. COMPLETE being the key word as other suppliers seem to leave out the 22 special short length studs as well as the other studs and parts, gaskets, windage tray, trap door box and goose-neck pick up you need, selling EACH as a separate component. Ok's is costly, but not as costly as an original, and Ok's replica parts interchange with originals.
Moving on, late 1300-101 Normale and all 1600 101 Normale's used a one piece cast aluminum sump that was and is very good. These are not too hard to find used, and again, for a small fortune Ok parts has it NEW.
 

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Isn’t the 101 alloy pan for the veloce motor?
Would converting to a remote filter be too much of a departure from original appearance ? About the extra oil pan studs:
A possible solution could be installing longer bolts to accommodate a “bridge” brace over the span where the studs would be.????
If you have the angled side mount filter on the block like the originals you don't need a remote filter as you can make a 101 head fit a 105 block by modding the lower block flange, but if you run a late block with the screw on filter, you would then need to run a remote filter as the screw-on filter is forward on the timing cover and interferes with the 750/101 steering arms

Rather have the main bearing cap milled down by 3mm at the plinths than try pull the main bearing cap bolts, but in all honesty 2 or 3mm steel feet on a home made bridge don't require longer studs, but you might not have enough length to fit the 2 Palmutter lock nuts - in that case go with locktite. I've never had a problem. If you wanted to spend some time with plastigauge you could test 101 center main caps with the 2 ears and see if one would fit without needing to be line bored.... I preferred not to mix my bearing caps around so made the metal braces.

Aye
Greig
 

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Hi all,

During the production period, the main bearing caps on the 1300cc Giulia 105 have been lenghtened with 9 mm from 59 mm to 68 mm long, resulting in 9 mm longer studs for the later engines of course.
If you have the 68 mm caps, I guess Greig is correct that you could have them milled down with 2,5 / 3 mm on both plinths.
Btw, the original 101 triangle support for the suction head is about 2,3 mm thick.

Or you could look for an early 59 mm central bearing leaving so enough extra stud lenght for a support, but maybe including a necessary line boring.

If you have the 59 mm long caps in your engine, be aware that the studs are already 3mm shorter than those of the 101 engine.

Rgds,
Thierry
 
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