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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Jay has written about this before, but I've been digging into one of my engines and am wondering where people are at regarding the semi-complicated oil filter system.

My FNM 2300 came with a spin-on as standard equipment. I converted my first spare to a Myron adapter. This last spare engine will serve for a while as a display, so I wanted to keep the original filter kit. I thought I had a complete set-up, but it appears I don't. It was roughly 1979 the last time I had my hands on a 102 cannister filter, and it's likely I didn't know what I was looking at then, either.

Below is a picture from the parts catalog. According to Jay, over time many of these assemblies have had critical parts discarded, resulting in the canister being a storage bin for a soggy felt sock rather than providing any filtering.

I am missing a couple of gaskets/O-rings that I've sorted out. However, I don't have the metal perforated "tube" that surrounds the original felt filter element. This tube performs two functions. It keeps the felt element from blowing outwards and coming unseated from the end-caps, and it sets the length of the filter assembly so that felt element is not crushed and deformed.

Jay says only three of the numerous cars he's had his hands on had a complete assembly. I understan that converting to a spin on solves this problem, but I'd like to have at least one engine stay original in this regard.

Does anyone have a spare perforated tube? I note that the parts book does not provide a part number for this piece, which strikes me as odd.

I have an Italian-made oil filter element that is the same length as the original felt sock, and the end-caps of which fit perfectly into the top and bottom cap originally intended to grip the perforated tube. The more modern filter (shown below - orange) has its own metal surround, thus fixing the length and keeping things from being crushed.

A long time ago I ordered a new element from OKP, and what I got was a felt sock much like the original, but too long and slightly too small in diameter. Probably for a 1300 or something.

Does anyone know of a supplier for the orange type with self-contained perforated metallic surround?

Does anyone know of a source for the original perforated metallic tube?
 

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I am in the same situation you are - wthout the outer surround piece. I was thinking a 101 filter would work less some of the gaskets which come as part of the filter. Not sure, it may need to be adapted.

Nice filter label BTW !

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes. A small band of gnomes snuck into my shop and hand-lettered the canister label while I slept one night. Crafty buggers.

I'm not clear on exactly what a 101 filter looks like, although it is possible that the orange one I just put into my canister is one. If so, I believe it will work fine. However, I'd rather have the original stuff if it can be found.

Maybe a guy named Doug and his merry band of gnomes would like to fabricate a run of perforated steel tubes?


I am in the same situation you are - wthout the outer surround piece. I was thinking a 101 filter would work less some of the gaskets which come as part of the filter. Not sure, it may need to be adapted.

Nice filter label BTW !

Doug
 

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Hi Don,

Funny you should mention this - I was thinking of making some of these and I already got the metal stock I was planning to use. I was planning on a spot welded lap joint where I would pre bend the shelf for the lap prior to rolling - I dont know, maybe after the rolling would be better. I will see.

I was not planning on anything special for the top and bottom lip - just cut ends.

The thing I need to know is how long should these be - I already have a good idea of the diameter from parts I have.

Could someone chime in with the length of filter surround?

Doug
 

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Joe Emailed me the following - Thanks Joe - twice you have come to the rescue!

"My perforated cannister measures 6 1/4" with 5/64" holes."

I measured the hole size in the material I showed and they are 5/64 in diameter. Sweet...For once Murphy was with me. I just got the stock based upon look from a 101 catridge.

I shall try making this in the next weeks.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I might be interested, but I intend to dig around and see if my all-in-one cartridge is still available. I don't remember if this is the one that came from OKP, or with the car in its pile of parts. Rather than multi-piece like the original, it is an all-in-one unit including the exterior perforated metal surround that gives it crush-strength. It is also the correct height to accept the original tube and nut through the middle and fit the canister.
 

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I tried welding the steel mesh today using spotty and some copper plates. I tried both lap and butt joints where the butt joint used a small backing piece of steel. Both methods came out ok and the joints did not break when I bent the metal afterwards.

Which method should I use to make the canister?

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Doug,

A lap joint would be fine, and I think correct to the original. The OD of the screen is not critical, whereas strength and longevity is.

Put me down for two.

Cheers,
 

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ok, I shall go with the lap then. I will have to get more stock to make another. I used what was left over of the sheet after cutting two out for test welding.

Doug
 

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I got the exrta stock yesterday, so I made up three filter housings today. One for me and two for you Don. I think they came out fine. The fit is tight and the height looks correct when fully assembled. Thanks again Joe.

I will ship them to you this weekend along with some other bits.

Doug
 

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