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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks Don.

I did not think of holding the engine sidewards with one mount. That will make things easier to make. I shall start trying to track down the parts - there is a HF only a few miles from me.

Thanks again Don,

Oh I just remembered another thing, what is the best way to remove a stuck nut from the crankshaft - meaning what is the best way to hold the crankshaft in place to remove the nut?


Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Two of my engine inspection plates are bad - too pitted. I have flat aluminum ones with no embossing. Did Alfa switch to aluminum in thr later years (1961) or were these changed at some point?

I see some on Ebay if mine are wrong, but I do want to stay original.

Doug
 

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The flat ones are almost certainly homemade.

You can get new ones at either Heinbrand or Haeckner, but I forget which one.

Don
 

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Two of my engine inspection plates are bad - too pitted. I do want to stay original.Doug
I have seen the original engine plates on eBay several times. I thought they were 'freeze plates' but don't know for sure. I bought a set of used plates in good condition a few years ago. If you can't find any let me know and you can use the ones I have.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Thanks - I thought they were not right. I just bought the set I saw on Ebay.

Here are some pics of the top of my engine. It is pretty much done now I think.

The heatshield brackets fit nice too - I hope the holes are close to the right locations as these brackets were made from Marks pictures.

I still have not gotten my crankshaft bolt off after mant many attempts and a lot of WD40 soaking. Anyone have some advice on how to hold the crank - I do not want to break my block casting.

Doug
 

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Somewhere on the BB another user posted the following link to some plans for the engine stand part Don is talking about: http://autocomponenti.com/tools/engine_stand.pdf. I saved the link myself, but don't recall the post...I'm pretty sure it was for a 2.0 liter. Recommend you verify dimensions before welding it up.

Regards,
Trent
 

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Doug,

An air impact wrench will remove the front crankshaft NUT without blocking the crank. What crankshaft BOLT are you talking about? A flywheel and clutch plate bolts?

I bought a couple of flywheel stop pawls from Totally Alfa. While they don't fit the 102 engine the way they do a 105, I can wedge one or the other between a trans mount stud and the ring gear for loosening and tightening the clutch and flywheel bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks for the picture of the adaptor plate with dimensions Trent - I started to draw one up but never finished - I want to get my crank bolt off before I make the adaptor for the stand. It will be much lighter for me to handle then.


Don, This is the big bolt that holds in the pulley in front of the crank. You are right - I shall try my air wrench tomorrow. My compressor is out in the garage and the block is in the cellar. They probably weight the same but at least the compresser has wheels.


Thanks for the help.

Doug
 

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Doug,

It's a nut, not a bolt, and has a bent-over lock tab.

I haven't followed your research into the motor stand adapter. Be aware that the 3 studs on the 102 have a different spacing than the 105s.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Oops thought nut said bolt. I did measure the dimensions for the hole pattern and I shall check them againt the drawing. Thanks for the heads up.

Doug
 

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You are right - I shall try my air wrench tomorrow. My compressor is out in the garage and the block is in the cellar. They probably weight the same but at least the compressor has wheels.
Doug, the head and carbs look great! Perhaps a long air hose or two would do the trick and they don't cost or weigh very much. A very large socket is required, something like 52 mm but I can not remember.

Mark
 

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I'll look at my socket tomorrow. It's at least 36mm, and possibly bigger.
 

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Doug,

I use a 2 3/16" socket on the 102 front crank nut. That's pretty close to 100mm, but far easier to find at the local auto parts store. Mine requires a 1/2 - 3/4 adapter to use, as I don't keep a 3/4" drive around here.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Yeehaa! I got it off!

I spent more time making an adaptor cord for my 230 VAC than I did taking the nut off. I hate those stupid split plugs because there are so many different flavors - double split, left and right split.

Of course the one in my garage was left, and the one in my cellar was right. I brought the compressor down in the cellar last night only to find out the socket was wrong.


Thanks for the help! BTW, my nut is 55mm diameter.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Thanks for the complimetn Mark. A lot of time spent on those. All of the steel bits were plated - I dont want to have to clean that up again anytime soon.

I am not sure about the quick starting devices though. Paperwork from Mercedes indicates that there are two ball stop valves. One by the air pressure intake and one in the fuel line. Mine had no balls.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #56
As Don suspected the hole pattern is for a different type mount. I modified the drawing for the 102 mount. I also widened the holes to 1/2 inch. No need to keep a tight hole pattern.


Doug
 

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Hmmmm. I'm going to go measure mine again. Now that I think about it 100mm would be bloody big. 55 sounds correct. I promise I wasn't drinking, as it was before noon, so wonder what I did wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I call that a flash - as in I flashed when I called the nut a bolt earlier! This may be a local term - certainly not in Websters.

Doug
 

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Yeehaa! I got it off!

I spent more time making an adaptor cord for my 230 VAC than I did taking the nut off. I hate those stupid split plugs because there are so many different flavors - double split, left and right split.

Of course the one in my garage was left, and the one in my cellar was right. I brought the compressor down in the cellar last night only to find out the socket was wrong.


Thanks for the help! BTW, my nut is 55mm diameter.

Doug
Doug, maybe you should have just picked up a couple of extra air hoses so you could leave the air compressor in the garage and run the air hose down to your cellar. I knew the crank nut was big but I did not remember it being "55 mm" big. My next door neighbors 'ex' was a diesel mechanic and had TOOLS and knowledge. I am sure gonna miss him now that he is gone!
Mark
 

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I reckon I hit the X key on the calculator twice. 2 3/16 is pretty much the same as 55 mm.

I'm not sure I would have opened up the mount holes to 1/2". The studs on the block are 8mm. To secure them you'll need bloody big washers, which will have a tendency to "dish" and release their tension. Having the holes an appropriate size for 8mm avoids that, as well as providing some shear loading capacity. Care must be taken to avoid scarring the studs when hanging or removing the engine, however.
 
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