Is this a Jack Beck/Orion part? If so, I am sure they would still make you one. Orion Motor Sports
Alternatively, if the bearings, particularly the one replacing the upper ball joint are non metric then this could be replicated pretty easily with off the shelf stock car stuff from Coleman Engineering or the like. Racing Parts and Products - Coleman Racing
I sent that picture to Orion and Jack didn't recognize it. My concern is the spherical bushing that replaces the top ball joint is welded into the bracket, which doesn't seem like a good idea.
Yeah, I understand. It just doesn't look that different than what Orion put on my SCCA full prep Giulietta years ago, so had to ask.
Coleman sells a "captured heim" for use as upper ball joint in custom applications. I think they are 1/2" id ?? Anyway I have used them for lots of similar non-Alfa applications to replace ball joints and then in particular make ball joint spacers and the like possible.
I would be happy to take a look through some of the stuff I have used in the past (junk box), and see if I can come up with any ideas. Could your provide the inner diameter or pin size/spindle bolt size of the bearing currently welded in.
The owner has sent me invoices from the original build in 2000. The a-arms were sourced from Alfa Heaven who I'll be calling soon. I see invoices from Coleman Racing, so that's where the rear suspension items came from.
Can you direct me to the "captured heim" as I didn't see it on the site. All three front heims are 5/8".
I used these on several Yenko Corvairs in years long past and assisted with another non-Alfa application. You should be able to source a threaded rod with a flat to bolt or weld this plate to, and then a clevis rod to form the back of the a-arm.
At the risk of stating the obvioius don't attach the sway bar link to the clevis arm as it's not meant to take a down load like that.
Additionally the heim bearing is a nylon type so welding edge of bracket instead of bolting must be done with tig and little at a time to keep from ruining the bearing liner. Bolt if you can.
Also I have seen the supplied ball joint taper pin crack and break. For this reason I always drill/ream the ball joint mount on the spindle all the way through and then use a NAS shear bolt retained with threaded nyloc nut and cotter pin.