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Discussion Starter #21
Road tested and no better

So I was delayed in testing as I was building a new throttle bell crank and just finished (never had the correct 101 veloce bell crank, so I had to make one). In any case I'm sorry to say that adjusting the lever arm nuts on the pressure plate change the effective position of the throw out arm but does it not influence the spring force on the clutch. At 1 to 2 turns of each nut, the throw out arm was so far forward it wouldn't fit through the inspection cover. I ended up tightening 3/4 of a turn on each nut and reassembled the linkage with no float (I'm sure at the cost of my TO bearing at some point) and I have just enough disengagement to shift without crunching gears. The clutch starts to grab at the moment you back off the pedal, so I am only marginally better than I was before. Which is still not good enough.

I now believe I must have a flywheel that has been machined out of spec (not sure which way).

The other option is that one of the bell crank levers in the clutch linkage isn't correct. The only one I can think of is the one in the pedal box being too short. If you have a dimesion on that please send it to me. I know brake levers did change; I'm not sure about the brakes.
 

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The bell crank on these seldom wears out, and I'm not sure, but believe all the mechanical F & S coil spring bell cranks are the same. Same with the pedal box. Moreover, if it worked before replacement, either PP, Disc, or Flywheel are non-dimensionally correct. It IS possible to have wear on the bronze bushes for the fork, or wear on the legs of the yoke for the TO bearing, but this should NOT cause the system to be bon adjustable.
I'm still working on Flywheel ledge to friction surface FACTORY documentation.
I assume you have corrected wear on the clevis/pin, and the hole in the FORGED (hard) throw-out yoke. Oval TO yoke hole can be electrically welded, re-drilled (special bit). I make the pin of soft steel so it wears rather than the yoke or clevis. It's easier to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I think I've found the issue. After reviewing all the links from clutch pedal to pressure plate, it still seems like I still wasn't getting enough throw with a full stroke of the pedal. As I was thinking about increasing the length of one of the bell crank levers and was reviewing the photos, I saw that this lever (right side) is bent, effectively reducing the final motion. It makes sense as I was puzzled with the poor location of the linkage going from this lever arm to the TO arm. I thought it didn't look quite right when I replaced the rubber bushing and so tried to tweak it a little in the vice, but it's pretty beefy. I'll need to remove it and perhaps correct it in a press. Painful process of elimination. I'll report back on whether this does the trick.
 

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These are welded with the strength of the Brooklyn Bridge.. I have no idea how it got deformed but having said that, it would be far more prudent to find a replacement that I am sure are readily available. I have two from a Giulietta but don't have the kink on both legs.. just one side. You should go with the one in your photo and use that photo for your WANTED ad. Hotlegs (Karen) probably has one. I also am dubious how this might change things but you are running out of options.
 

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The clutch flywheel ledge to friction face is confirmed to be 29 mm by more than 3 sources, but we are still looking for documentation...
patience.
I like the slightly bent arm theory. Those were welded when Alfa paid by the thoroughness of the weld. I agree with Uncle. Try a press, but easier to replace.
 

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Is it possible to allow the stop for the clutch pedal to be moved to allow it to come back a bit more ?
 

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Not without pedal box and / or / linkage modification.
 

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Went looking for anything obvious - found a bracket had been bent which reduced the travel, unbent it and adjusted the rods and it seems to have made a beneficial difference. Won't know for sure till l drive it next, but when l started the motor, it selected first and reverse without any spin, mind you the oil was stone cold. However l think the damage to the thrust race from being heavily engaged since well before l bought the car means it is terminal, so gearbox out soon to put a nice new one in. Intend to pull the box out from underneath, rather than engine out - is that the best way with a 101 with a 5 speed 101 1600 engine and box ? Oh and the bush inside the pedal / lever mechanism is well worn, so that will get a birthday too when the thrust bearing is done. Will make my own as used to doing that with these little guys l build. View attachment 1631627 View attachment 1631628 View attachment 1631628 View attachment 1631627 View attachment 1631628 View attachment 1631627
 
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