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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just bought a '70 1750 GTV and I have a few questions:

1.The passanger doorhandle is breaking up as it is so hard to open the door which has new seals, I'm going to try and improve the door shutting following Max Bank's advice. When fitting the new handle, is it possible to swop over the lock barrel from the old to new one so that I can keep the same key for both doors, has anyone taken one apart?

2. The door window glass seems to curve the wrong way i.e outwards and it is hard to wind up the windows as the bind on the door seals - might they have been fitted the wrong way round, have they warped, or am i just imagining this?

3. Can you stop quarter lights from whistling?

4. How much oil should it use? I'm getting about 30mpg (fuel) should I be pleased with this?

5. There's a rumble/whine from the back axle at all speeds and loads, should I be worried about this?

6. Will a becker radio fit in the dash?

7. When I collected it had just had a tune up and the the carburation was great, now there's a noticeable flat spot when pulling away, at about 1-2000 rpm. I'm wary of fiddling with the carbs, is this something you have to live with using Webers?

8. Why is the fuel filler so awkward? I can't get the nozzle properly into the tank and have to fill up really slowly otherwise petrol sprays everywhere.

9. What tyre pressures do you recommend for stock wheels?

10. It's a bit quiet, even with an alfaholics exhaust, if I take away the back silencer, will it make my ears hurt? I understand that its a compromise between sounding nice and being practical on a long cruise, maybe I just need to drive with the windows down...

Thanks for your advice!
 

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1.When fitting the new handle, is it possible to swap over the lock barrel from the old to new one so that I can keep the same key for both doors, has anyone taken one apart?

Yes, it can be done. There is a pin that secures the lock barrel to the handle - this needs to be driven out. My old pin was bent a bit after I removed it, so I replaced it with a roll pin 5/32nds inch in diameter X 1/2" long. The length needed to be trimmed down a bit. There is also a coil spring around the barrel - it's two ends need to be pulled out of the groove to allow the lock barrel to come out.

6. Will a becker radio fit in the dash?

It would be helpful for us to know what model Becker radio you are referring to. If it is a "DIN" configuration - that is, it mounts in one large rectangular hole, rather than a small rectangular hole + two outer round holes - then the answer is "NO, not without hacking up the dash". Of course, you can hack up the dash, but the next owner will hate you forever.

8. Why is the fuel filler so awkward? I can't get the nozzle properly into the tank and have to fill up really slowly otherwise petrol sprays everywhere.

I can't answer the "why" part, but the fuel filler sitting too high seems to be a design defect. The solution is to remove the tank + filler, cut about 1" out of the straight vertical part of the tube, and attach the pieces using a few inches of rubber hose & clamps. This modification also makes it easier to remove and replace the tank. Use hose intended for this application (e.g., fuel resistant). Oh, and be sure not to create any sparks while cutting that might cause the fumes in your tank to explode, or to drop any shards into the tank. A plumbers' tubing cutter, that rolls around the tube while cutting a groove, is the ideal tool.

- Try using the advanced search function on the BB to learn more about all of these issues - many have been written about in the past. Search both the spider and GTV threads.
 

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3. Can you stop quarter lights from whistling?
you can, mine don't whistle....not sure what to do though

4. How much oil should it use? I'm getting about 30mpg (fuel) should I be pleased with this?
30 mpg is pretty good, you should be pleased with that. Oil wise, I think it's conventional wisdom that if you use more than a quart (US) per 1000 miles it's a little too much

5. There's a rumble/whine from the back axle at all speeds and loads, should I be worried about this?
any whine/rumble is not good thing. Wheel bearings? Does the sound change in corners?

10. It's a bit quiet, even with an alfaholics exhaust, if I take away the back silencer, will it make my ears hurt? I understand that its a compromise between sounding nice and being practical on a long cruise, maybe I just need to drive with the windows down...

Take out the rear silencer, the sound is great!!!
 

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7. When I collected it had just had a tune up and the the carburation was great, now there's a noticeable flat spot when pulling away, at about 1-2000 rpm. I'm wary of fiddling with the carbs, is this something you have to live with using Webers?
Check everything ELSE first. Maybe the vacuum advance or mechanical advance in the dizi is not working perfectly, etc.

Because this is an old car you might look at replacing springs, fuel hoses, vacuum hoses, ignition leads, dizi cap and rotor, etc. ... but importantly we need to remember that dizi is old too and probably due for a massive service and reconditioning (worn bushes, old and tired springs, etc).

Once that is done and is like new and you still have problems, don't just play with tune of the carbs, remove them and get them properly reconditioned ... as again they are 30 years old and will need new gaskets, jets, etc. Then you can tune her and all will be as good as possible.

A small investment in maintaining a now old car :).
Pete
 

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1. Best to get new locks
2. They can't be, and no, take all the guts out of the door and lubricate the living daylights out of all the metal/metal areas
3. GASKETS
4. Why are you getting better mileage than me?
5. Thicker rear end oil, my 1973 Merc SL450 does it all the time, most likely very bad, try the oil
6. Most likely, if you want a hole in your dash and other Alfa owners to hate you for the rest of eternity, if not put it in the glovebox, that's where I found mine.
7. Describe Flat, you mean where there is no power gain? if so, yes
8. I don't follow, mine works perfectly, fits better than my other cars.
9.I believe it is 35 front/30 rear, but don't quote me, I'll make sure when I get back to my GTV
10. CUT IT OFF
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your replies,

4. That figure was over about 300 miles, a mixture of city driving, country roads, and a few hours at 80mph on the motorway, maybe I just have a lighter right foot!

7. When I pull away the engine seems to missfire and die just above tickover, and then suddenly picks up when I accelerate more, as if a jet is blocked or there is a weak point in the mixture. A petronix conversion is next on the list of jobs to do, but if feels like carburation to me.

5. The back axle noise is at all speeds, but the nearside rear brake squeaks when I go round right hand bends. It sounds like a bearing, but 105 back axles look like a pain to work on - full of collars that have to be pressed off in a machine shop etc... Maybe a job for a proffesional.

6. I was thinking about a Becker Europa/Mexico, not sure if they are DIN size or not, I know what you mean about not cutting hole in the dash, but if its a nice period radio there should be no need to take it out. At the moment the car has modern radio in the glove box, the trouble is that it leaves no space for gloves, sweeties or anything else, I can't reach it from the drivers seat, and anyway, I think that a nice classic radio would really finish off the interior.
 

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7. When I pull away the engine seems to missfire and die just above tickover, and then suddenly picks up when I accelerate more, as if a jet is blocked or there is a weak point in the mixture. A petronix conversion is next on the list of jobs to do, but if feels like carburation to me.
Only takes minutes to clean the jets ... I'd do that before fiddling with any adjustments, oh and chuck on a new fuel filter.

Pete
 

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2. there is a adj. screw at the bottom of the front most window track inside the door. specific little thing with a large disk , threads and a slot for a flat head -no nut . you have to use a lot of w-d 40 to work if free, most are rusty and no longer work, but there is a way to adjust the glass. there is also a slot on the bottom of the back most window track that is a lot easier to adjust, but you must fiddle with both to make a good seal.
 
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