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Here we go. If you have a sample and know original thickness, Colman in Michigan spin casts them. As they may already HAVE the Giulia 1600 pattern from previous orders, call them to check. Not inexpensive, but you will only have to buy a pair one time!

Here is what I would do. Remove thew front upper cap. Replace it with ANY other front cap, you don't need to snug it down. If the cam must move back for that to fit, your cam has wallowed out both the front lower saddle in the head, and the cap. There IS a big issue as to how that might happen...

Once R & P gear sets are worn in, moving the pinion in or out ANY amount will make the assembly run noisy, on acceleration, deceleration or both. Do NOT mess with it's current set up if it was quiet. Working with Ferrari R & P's in transaxles CONVINCED me I am NOT a gearologist, and I leave...

Pure acetone. Nail polish is mostly water with only a bit of acetone so it does not dry out your skin like straight acetone. The stuff evaporates quickly and easily so a mix with trans fluid must be stored in a tightly sealed container.

As a pump rebuilder, my suggestions seem to be popular. If the car is NOT a concourse show car or driven quite a bit a quality aftermarket pump is much less costly than rebuilding an original. Save the original core with the car, but use a good aftermarket pump. I have customers that "want" the...

You can have new ones cast spun by some outfit "up-North" somewhere. They made a few for me for 275 Ferrari's using a NOS set I had. I'll figure out who they are eventually...

NOT a turbo rattle. Sounds more like initial lean mix on plate opening.

Too hot!

To continue Ed's dialog above, BEST measure the old one when pushed out and make the new one the same exact OD on a lathe, drill press or whatever you have!

Just buy one from APE in California or any of the other good Alfa part recyclers. They DO exist.

There are also outfits that fit new rims to existing center spiders as well as offering rim widening on steel wheels.

You and Ed are doing VALUABLE research into changes others may try. Keep it up. When customers ask me which way to go on set up, both of your collected BB input becomes a useful resource!

Always remember Webers were REPLACED by FI. EFI can actually do a better job than Webers. That says a whole lot of really good things about the Weber 40/45DCOE design.

Lets go back. Which DCOE's? 40 or 45? Which engine? Which cams?

Try F-16 E-tubes with correctly set float level. Don't mess with pump circuit. #35 jets, normal (short) pump rods and 45 to 55 pump exhaust jets or bleed back. You did not mention Weber type or size, but 3 prog hole bodies with transition a bit leaner than 2 prog hole bodies. DON'T mess with the...

WELL! That's a different story! My car was a factory odd-one, owned from new, and was always set-up like this. Most cars have bumper over-riders there, and I do not believe the threaded holes were used. You need another unrestored example, like mine, to see if they're were bolts in those...

Can you be more specific? Which holes? There are a whole bunch.

Many battery chargers have overload protection and if they sense the battery is low, will charge it at a high rate, momentarily, until they sense it won't accept that charge rate, so then shut down and later try again. If you can control your battery charge rate, set it for 3A and let it charge...

But it's NOT what you or I would call "kinky" Brian.

At least my '65 spider remains in the garage here with me after the change! It has NOT disappeared.