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post #16 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-28-2007, 10:21 AM
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My guess would be that the rubber seal that works against the diaphragm plunger, is worn. The would let fluid enter the vacuum chamber. Being the body of the units are made of aluminum, dirty fluid is most likely the culprit for early failure IMO.
I have seen the rubber "elbow" decompose to where it is just a remnant of its former self, and any good vacuum hose will suffice as long as it is long enough to not kink in the middle.
These units are as we can see are simple in design and easy to repair. Rarely does the big rubber diaphragm fail. IMO, it is the body that wears until the clearances are out of tolerance.
Can these units be resleeved? (question for a machinist)
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post #17 of 109 (permalink) Old 05-29-2007, 10:23 AM
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broken plastic thingy

I just noticed that the cone shaped plastic piece that goes on the end of the long spring and has some oil flow passages in it is cracked in one of my boosters. Do any of the rebuild kits have this piece? Anyone have a used one to sell me?

Colin Verrilli
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post #18 of 109 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 02:01 AM
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I'm new to the list and own a 1971 RHD 1750GTV with twin Bonaldi/Bendix boosters. I am wondering if anyone has any exploded diagrams of these and if so, are they willing to post them? The reason I'm asking is that mine need repairing and before I pull them apart, I'd like to know what I'm getting in to.
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post #19 of 109 (permalink) Old 12-31-2007, 09:14 PM
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Chris, I got these from Jim last year for my GTV restoration. Now so far I've dissassembled my boosters and picked-up 2 repair kits...but haven't started the rebuild yet so I can't offer much more than this at this stage.
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1971 1750 GTV 105.48 (sold), 1972 1300GTJunior (sold)
1969 1750 GTV 105.5 , 1972 Montreal
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post #20 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 02:55 PM
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Rossano,
Thank you - these will help a lot. My car is undergoing a slow rebuild and I'm up to the brakes. When I dismantle the boosters I'll take the hydraulics to be professionally cleaned and possibly resleeved if necessary. I've already had the calipers and master cylinder overhauled and the brakes work quite well with no vacuum assistance though when a vacuum is applied the brakes are partially on the whole time. I'm assuming the fault is in the air bleed part of one or other booster, that is, the valve is stuck open to the atmosphere all of the time. I'll see how I go with it.
I've always called my old car my Summer Car - summer time she go and summer time she not go ..... at present it's at bit of a mixture.
Thanks again and all the best for 2008.
Chris
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post #21 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 04:22 PM
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Booster rebuild

I went through all the hassle described above taking apart the boosters on my newly acquired 69 GTV which supposedly been rebuilt. They cleaned up OK, but in one a small plastic part not available in re-build kits was broken. The word I was getting from professional mechanics was that their experience with re-building was not good, and they recommended new ones. The kits are available from IAP, but the two kits required for each unit cost 3/4 of the new price. I bought new units made by Bosche from Centerline, which look identical to the old except for the gold irridized color. (But he mounting studs turned out to be SAE 5/16 32 ,I think, rather than the metric size on the originals.) I have the old ones in box, one reassembled, one still apart. If anyone is interested in them, make an offer.
post #22 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 06:56 PM
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Anchors Away!

I have 6 old ones I use for anchors for my beer cooler tube at the lakehouse . . .

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post #23 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-01-2008, 10:15 PM
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I imagine mine will end up in the dumpster.
post #24 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-02-2008, 12:26 AM
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I may end up buying a couple of new ones and as I have enough anchors, I'll use the old ones as doorstops ...
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post #25 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-02-2008, 08:33 AM
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Better get your AMEX out. They ain't cheap (~$375 ea), especially with two for a '69. There are several other brake threads discussing going to single circuit or eliminating them altogether. Peruse them. I went stock with two new Bosch units. Will flush the system every year (I promise this time) and will pray to the brake Gods.

I just rebuilt my whole system. Make sure and check your check valve (clean/look for seam leaks) on the first vacuum booster connection on the firewall (rear) booster, and consider replacing the vacuum tubing to both if they are old. Take a look at your firewall brake cluster emergency switch (mine leaked) and look at the thread on proportioning valves. Good luck!

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post #26 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-02-2008, 09:35 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I've had the master cylinder and all four calipers rebuilt not long ago and I change the fluid annually (honestly, I really do). I've been trawling across all of the postings on this thread (on this and other BBs) and have seen the comments regarding single system and no booster systems. Of late I've been driving with the vacuum disconnected and plugged and I must admit that whilst the brakes still work they need a fairly decent shove on the pedal. I guess for the sake of originality I'll probably shell out whatever it costs to replace them - the ones in the car are original, so hopefully the replacements will also last nearly 40 years by which time the planet will be out of oil and the problem will be largely academic
Thanks again,
Chris

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post #27 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-18-2008, 11:15 AM
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Hi, I have replated my housings. Are there any issues I need to be aware of on re assembly particularly to ensure there are no leaks.

Regards
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post #28 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-18-2008, 11:32 AM
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Assuming you just dismantled the bell hosing parts and not the booster hydraulic body, just the paper gasket between the inner bell housing and the body of the booster. The diaphragm edge pinched between the bell halves forms the gasket there. As pointed out elsewhere, the rubber elbow between the CV and the outer bell housing needs to be sound and not cracked. Good time to check the vacuum hose for integrity and the check valve (on the rear booster banjo fitting) also. They can get cruded up and corroded.

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Last edited by Anfanuts; 01-18-2008 at 11:32 AM. Reason: typos
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post #29 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-19-2008, 01:04 AM
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Anfanuts, what is the check valve on the rear booster banjo fitting? I don't think I have one of those let alone a cruded up corroded one.
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post #30 of 109 (permalink) Old 01-19-2008, 06:10 AM
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On a US '69 anyway (ask others for later configurations if you have that): at the booster end of the vacuum tubing from the manifold, there is a double banjo fitting on the "rear" (firewall) booster. One banjo fitting (the one receiving the vacuum from the head hopefully) has an elongated and fatter nipple and is made of aluminum. It is a ball type check valve that keeps the vacuum in the booster upon deceleration to keep the brakes powered up with boost. The other banjo fitting(s) is(are) brass and shorter in length and convey the vacuum from the rear booster to the front booster (the one on the fender). These can get crudded up or corroded if brake fluid has leaked though them (being aluminum bodied). It pays to take them off and carefully clean them. I use WD-40. The crimped seam in the aluminum body can be fragile and fail and allow air leaks into the intake. I've have a leaking one that I've now caulked and am considering finding an in-line check valve to replace it.
Regards, Bruce

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)(
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- Benjamin - '76 ex-Nuova to 1600 Super (
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) - for the 2011 Euro trip
- '69 1750 Berlina (wish I still had)
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Last edited by Anfanuts; 04-03-2008 at 06:31 PM. Reason: typo
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