Replacing transmission mount - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-31-2008, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
Thanks for sharing.

BTW, 'unrestrained vibrator':

Are you talking gas powered tamper, pnumatic jackhammer, or perhaps more sawzall in general?
Apprentice with a manual tamper........

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-04-2009, 09:43 AM
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Hey guys YOu should take a look of BattleBUg system to pull out the tras mount with a 1 1/2 pipe cap and a 6in gear pulley from autozone... I am pulling votes to elevated that post to the Hall of Fame! =) regrads! CC

Here is the link:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...tml#post227929
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 02:15 AM
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I just purchased a new transmission mount from Centerline. After reading every post I could find on the subject of replacement, I was planning on using the 1-1/2 inch pipe cap and 6" gear puller method of removal/replacement. However, I did see a post that was a little disturbing (cannot locate again) but it was mentioned that the mount in question was purchased from IAP and did not fit. As Centerline purchased IAP it made me wonder. What I don't want is to get this car on my friends lift only to strand it there because the part won't fit.

Questions:

1) has anyone had the problem of the bushing not fitting?
2) if so, what was the O.D. of the bushing that did not fit? - hoping someone measured it.
3) Has anyone measured the ID of the ring on the transmission mount and if so could you provide that information.

I also plan to have a propane torch or heat gun handy to heat the ring for re-insertion as well as leave bushing in the freezer overnight.

Car is a '77, has low miles and the brackets are not rusty at all so crossing fingers that this is not a total PITA. But, some people say it is a piece of cake and others say a nightmare so..............

1977 Canary Yellow 2000 Spider Veloce (23K Original)
1984 Spider Veloce (Sold 1998), 1972 Datsun 240Z
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 03:57 AM
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thread here on that
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...-i-do-now.html

seems 64mm is correct.
You don't want to crack the carrier on the tranny, that's for sure

btw, poorly manufactured mounts are over here in EU too

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dhayes5 View Post
I just purchased a new transmission mount from Centerline. After reading every post I could find on the subject of replacement, I was planning on using the 1-1/2 inch pipe cap and 6" gear puller method of removal/replacement. However, I did see a post that was a little disturbing (cannot locate again) but it was mentioned that the mount in question was purchased from IAP and did not fit. As Centerline purchased IAP it made me wonder. What I don't want is to get this car on my friends lift only to strand it there because the part won't fit.

Questions:

1) has anyone had the problem of the bushing not fitting?
2) if so, what was the O.D. of the bushing that did not fit? - hoping someone measured it.
3) Has anyone measured the ID of the ring on the transmission mount and if so could you provide that information.

I also plan to have a propane torch or heat gun handy to heat the ring for re-insertion as well as leave bushing in the freezer overnight.
Car is a '77, has low miles and the brackets are not rusty at all so crossing fingers that this is not a total PITA. But, some people say it is a piece of cake and others say a nightmare so..............
A failsafe procedure if you don't want to be stranded would be to back out the existing bushing just enough to get a caliper check on the outside diameter of the bush or the inside diameter of the trans carrier. Compare those numbers to the new bushing before going any further.
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Last edited by aldo; 01-25-2017 at 05:32 AM.
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 09:06 AM
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I just posted this on another thread.......

So, I've heard that some, if not all, of the newer blocks are "slightly" too large to fit the hole as they should..surprise surprise. The last one I did was too tight for my money but I did get it in with a fight using the usual methods but it was a little more tussle than it should have been. I was not aware of the oversized issue until I asked some folks after it was done. I would expect it to go in with the pipe fitting method and a puller and a standard ratchet without any cheaters. It was so tight it was reluctant to straighten itself out if it got even slightly cocked which they tend to do..FF to solutions I have heard.. spin them on a lathe and skim them a few thou and then trial fit .. I know a maestro who does this and then applies some sort of 21st C. epoxy to glue them in. He swears by it and has over 50 years experience.. There are really hardly any side loads so I can see how this could work.
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-06-2017, 11:38 AM
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I would like to replace the transmission mount in my S4 while the motor is installed and can't seem to find much detail on that operation. Do I need to disconnect the drive shaft or loosen the motor mounts (which I just replaced) in order for the mount to hang low enough to use the custom pusher or puller tools? I started to remove the bracket at the rear of the transmission and then decided to ask the experts before going further.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-07-2017, 03:14 AM
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I replaced mine using the upgraded or heavier duty mount from Spruell. And I did it after replacing the motor mounts with Spruell's reinforced mounts. Car was on front ramps and I left trans in the car. Did not remove or disconnect the drive shaft. It's tight no doubt about it but can be done. I used a 6" gear puller and a pipe cap as described in other threads on the board to push the old mount out. Going back with the new one was tougher. The Spruell mount fit fine its just tight. Be sure it's aligned correctly. Lube it. And I was able to use the pipe cap and some other pipe flanges with 1/2" all thread and heavy washers to pull the new mount into place. Huge difference in shifting and feel. A bit more vibration from the firmer engine and trans mount but not uncomfortable or annoying. Drop the cross brace and get access to mount. Press it out with the arms and threaded shaft of the gear puller using the pipe cap. 1 1/2" I think. You may need to smooth up the outside edge of the cap to be sure it doesn't get stuck or damage the hole for the mount. Then use the all thread and washers/pipe flanges to pull the new mount in. Be sure it's aligned correctly. Reinstall the cross brace and you're good to go. A little later today I can post you a photo of the "tools" I used. Hope this helps.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-07-2017, 10:12 AM
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I drilled the cap and used the all thread with the cap for the last fraction of the way in so there was an even Edge on both sides of the mount in the aluminum trans case that holds the mount.
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-14-2017, 01:36 PM
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i just did mine-its not hard- i used air chisel to knock out old one then a big socket and hammer to drive the new one in
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