Originally Posted by alfaromero1067
Thanks for the feedback. Need to find out why they rigged the center wire on the submersible pump and wire was routed to the relay area behind the passenger. Going to try and find that color wire. Could be different color. I’m starting to suspect ignition coil. I bought the car in 2013, never replaced it and it makes an effort to start after a few minutes. Something tells me coil may be cooling down after several attempts and then it starts but cuts off because coil bad. Any thoughts on this?
Can't comment on the ignition coil, but if the center wire of the sender was routed directly to the relay, that suggests the inertia switch was either never present in your '89 or removed by someone. The inertia switch, if you have one, is the only thing in series between the fuel relay and the in-tank pump. A direct connection from the fuel sender to the fuel relay is a simple bypass with a much shorter wire run. It might be good to check that the in-line pump power is also connected to the relay (or the inertia switch). Both pumps should get their power from the same source, i.e. they are in parallel.
If the clicking is intermittent and usually you hear a few close together, as in clickity-click--click, I'm going with the intermittent relay signal/connection theory. I'm referring to the coil of the relay itself, i.e. the signal and pins that activate the fuel relay's coil.
There is a black and green wire that provides +12 V to both the fuel drive relay (coming off the hot side of fuse #8, which means you need a good ignition switch too) and the main (fuel injector) relay. Check good connections there.
The (-) side of the main relay is grounded through the fuel ECU, while the (-) side of the fuel relay is grounded through the (-) ignition coil.
I think I got that right...
Please keep us posted.