Car running hot ó is it the Evans coolant? - Page 7 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #91 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PSk View Post
Good luck. I do hope its not just because the cooling system needs burping.
Pete
Thanks to ALL for those great comments. I'm really grateful for the time taken to help me. Thank you so much.

I didn't know that reading spark plugs requires an off-idle shutdown. I'll try that later.

The spit-back occurs on part throttle. Not WOT or idle. Not a lot of spitting at all, but a couple of pops every few minutes.

I'll work on having the carbs set up properly, but I hear you all saying it's not likely the cause of my heat problem. Message received.

Frankly, I still think improper bleeding is a likely suspect, but I've read every thread on the topic and can't identify anything I'm doing wrong. I filled up the system as prescribed using both the bleed screw on the water pump and the one on the water manifold. If I crack either of those screws now, only coolant comes out. I've rinsed and repeated that whole process three times!

It'd be so much easier if all those coolant hoses were transparent...

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post #92 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 01:05 PM
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Okay last post, really.

When you disturb an engines water system, you need to follow this procedure to burp the system (no matter what engine):
1. Fill with water, der
2. Turn heater to max hot
3. Do NOT put radiator cap on
4. Start engine and warm up, with lowish revs. If you rev the engine you may cause water to come out of radiator cap opening
5. When the thermostat opens the engine will burp and the radiator water level will drop
6. While engine is running, top up water and put radiator cap on
7. Done

Critical that the radiator cap is not installed before this is done.
Pete

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post #93 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Pete.

I’m only about 92% sure I did that, so I will try again. It’s an easy one.

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post #94 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 02:28 PM
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Well I,m going out on a limb, those plugs are way lean...yes the rad should handle it ...I still think there is a problem with the core..

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post #95 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 02:36 PM
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Jetting start point 45's

Main Jets 130
Air Correctors 200
Emulsion Tubes F9
Idler Jets 45-F-8
Pump Jets 35
Starter Jets 60 F-5
Needle Valves 200
Chokes 34 (ventures)
Auxiliary Ventures 45
Brass Floats 26
Throttle Plates 78
Intake and discharge valve-55

The older I get.. the faster I was....
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post #96 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 04:09 PM
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Was the sender for the temp gauge changed at the same time as the head?

'66 1600 Duetto | '73 1600 GTJunior | '03 156 1.9JTD Sportwagon | '11 Giulietta QV (wow, revelation) | I really don't need this many Alfa's...
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post #97 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Here’s what the plugs look like after shutting down from medium RPM
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Last edited by Canadian Spider; 06-12-2019 at 05:01 PM.
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post #98 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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.
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post #99 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 05:04 PM
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I use a jewelers loupe to examine plugs; can't tell much from this distance. But I really don't think the mixture strength is the cause of your concern.
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post #100 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 05:09 PM
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I agree with Chas. The colour of brand new plugs after only 500miles is not going to determine why the cooling system is running hot, it’s a side issue (distraction).

It really feels like the system isn’t bled properly.
Take it for a fast Italian tune up with the heater on full
Redo the bleed process that PSK wrote up (it’s a good’un)

Does this model have a heater tap?

I’m empathetic to your issue, but on the positive, there is always one thing that doesn’t run right on an Alfa (new or old) - so your car is kinda good


(I’m chasing a rough idle in a 105 and a 1750tbi)

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post #101 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 10:20 PM
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DHLA jetting

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Sprint View Post
Nakgtv noted the "smallish" 132 main jets and I tried to find more information regarding the 7772.12 emulsion tubes, all in the context of the emissions carburetors, but nothing conclusive was discovered.
I agree with Tom and Chas, from left to right, the first two plugs look a little lean. They reflect mixture strength right before shutdown. If the carbs spit-back at idle and idle mixture is what the plugs reflect, then the plugs look as expected. This is likely not a jetting issue but getting the carburetors synchronized and the idle mixture/volume screws set correctly.

The short answer to your question is no or unlikely. If this configuration worked fine before the head swap, it should be ok now.
Maybe a Giulietta 1.6 setup, with 54 idle jets swapped for 58? Do you have aluminum tags on the carb covers with numbers on them?

DHLA40H (emissions model)
Corrector 180
Emulsion 7772.12
Main 132
Idle 58

https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car...questions.html

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post #102 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 06:43 AM
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I have a similar cooling setup and it works fine. New radiator from Vicks Autosports, coolant temp sensor in the lower radiator hose (180 on, 165 off), and a non shrouded 12" electric fan rated at 1750 CFM max wired inline with the original A/C pusher fan. Car runs right at 190 on the interstate and 180 in stop and go no matter what. Running a 50/50 coolant mix.
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post #103 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 10:15 AM
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From the latest plug pictures, the two left plugs still look lean, maybe leaner than in the first set of pictures. I remain skeptical that lean mixtures are the problem. I would follow Pete's procedure and confirm there isn't an air bubble in the cooling system. Belts and suspenders... bleed the system at the water pump and at the intake manifold as well as leaving the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens. When you have exhausted other possibilities, then maybe focus more on the Dellortos. Your 132 main jets are small and I have not found any useful information on the .12 emulsion tubes. Does that matter wrt elevated engine temperature? No one can really know without experimenting with new parts and/or using a wide-band AFR meter.

Rich Hanning
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post #104 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the additional insights. In response to your questions:

  1. The coolant temp sensor is not new. I never even removed it from the intake manifold. I just moved the whole manifold over to the new head.
  2. Agree the system may not be bled properly. I have followed Peteís instructions up to the point of starting the car. I ran out of time and need to complete his process, which Iím following to the letter.
  3. Every drive is a fast Italian tune up. 😎
  4. I am doing all of this with the heater on, but I donít know what a heater tap is.
  5. Yes, the carbs have metal tags with numbers on them. Serial numbers I presume. They are sequential.
  6. Thereís more wrong with the car than just this, Craig, but this is the most troubling issue right now because Iím not comfortable driving the car until I sort it out. The slowly rusting wheel arches and soaking wet diff arenít showstoppers.

I will report back on my progress.

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post #105 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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This problem appears to be solved, but I won't know for certain until we get a hot day.

I followed Pete's instructions on how to fill the cooling system. Now, on the highway, the temp stays steady around 185F. As it should.

The fan still has me confused though. When it comes on, the temperature drops very, very slowly. If I jumper the temp sensor so the fan is on all the time, the temp stays down.

So it seems to me that the fan is effective at maintaining a temperature, but not very effective at lowering the temperature. I assume that's because my rad is old.

I'm thinking about wiring up the fan so it's just on all the time. I know that's just a band aid until I eventually get a new rad. Any dire warnings against doing that?

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