Car running hot — is it the Evans coolant? - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #31 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 01:55 PM
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You have removed the shroud around the fan. Without the shroud the fan doesn't pull enough air. Put it back in place.
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post #32 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 02:33 PM
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Water is indeed the best coolant. But other considerations make it unwise to run straight water. Corrosion is a culprit anti-freeze of the proper sort will virtually eliminate. Alfas spending there lives in warm climates can have serious corrosion issues if only water is used. The best coolant mix is a modern anti-freeze of at least 30% concentration, higher if freezing can happen, along with distilled water. Stay away from water wetter and waterless coolants.
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post #33 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian Spider View Post
What should I try first?
I suggest try the fan first.

Hopefully other posters will take a breather and let you experiment and return with data, instead of bombarding you with theories ...

Again only way to fix a problem is to work on the car. Talking about potential issues does nothing.
Pete

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post #34 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 02:51 PM
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As Alfaparticle said, is the new fan a pusher fan or a sucker fan? Do you have the restrictor in the bypass hose? I think the restrictor is more for warm up but you might just be bypassing too much hot coolant. Just my two bits.

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post #35 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 02:54 PM
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alfa particle ..you beat me to it..see if the fan is pulling or pushing..it should be pulling
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post #36 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 02:57 PM
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Okay I suggest you turn your computer off as "we" keep spewing theorectical suggestions. Gosh you must be so confused by now.

AlfaBB members, please let this guy go out to his car!
Pete
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post #37 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, the shroud is removed because the electric fan has an integral shroud.

Let’s call the area covered by the stock shroud X and the area covered by the fan’s integral shroud Y. Air can’t pass from X to Y because of the electric fan’s integral shroud, so I don’t see how shrouding X accomplishes anything. The air caught by that shroud can’t be funnelled into the fan, so it’ll just stagnate there.

Does that make sense? Am I wrong?

The fan is pulling. There was no restrictor in the bypass hose before, so there still isn’t.

Off to take a test drive with no fan now...

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post #38 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 04:39 AM
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If the temperatures vary by 30-50 degrees and the thermostat is working, chances are it's restricted. With IR or without this you can also check it with the palm of your hand. First after the engine is warmed up shut it off and feel the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if the temperatures vary. If restricted chances are the upper hose will be very hot to the touch while the lower will be just warm. Once again that is if the thermostat is functioning properly. Also if you have access to different parts of the radiator core itself (the finned middle portion) feel it with your hand in different locations to feel for temperature variations. If temperatures vary, (you already tried flush or reverse flush the cooling system,) but your best bet is to have it boiled out by a Radiator repair shop, because at this point flushing is usually only a temporary fix. My thinking is the flushing may have caused some blockage.

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post #39 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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@Tom I would say the temps vary by about 20 degrees. I think my cooling system passes the test you’re talking about. No part of the system is below 165F, which is uncomfortable to touch for more than a second.

It’s been 500 miles since the new cylinder head went on, so I re-torqued it. I also tried running without the fan at all. No change.

I’m not an expert, but my thinking leads me to the thermostat. I’m still not clear on whether or not it’s even possible that I have the wrong one, and that the bypass hose isn’t being blocked off properly. Any insight?

Is it at all possible that this is related to the newly rebuild carburetors? Would an overly lean mixture cause this kind of behaviour without obvious rough running?

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post #40 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 12:20 PM
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Replace the original shroud and mount the fan in it. This will pull air through the entire radiator instead of just the center. Surface area matters.
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post #41 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Replace the original shroud and mount the fan in it. This will pull air through the entire radiator instead of just the center. Surface area matters.
If that was the cause, wouldn’t the temps come way down on the highway where the fan becomes irrelevant?

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post #42 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 02:35 PM
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I would do what proneshooter suggested next. I say this because we think air is rushing through the radiator at speed but, for example, Aston Martin tested their DBS and found that above 100mph(?) NO air moved through the grill at all. This is why later models of the DBS v8 had no grill opening. If the air has no where to exit, it does not go in.

Then test and report back
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post #43 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 03:33 PM
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Hi mate having fun i see. I had a problem like this once it turned out to be something i only caught by chance so worth a try for you maybe. The top radiator hose closed up when sucking fluid by the water pump severely restricting flow. Just something I thought I would tell you about you never know . By the way do not run your car without a thermostat the cooling system needs restricted flow to allow heat exchange to occur (very important) Regards John.
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post #44 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 05:10 PM
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I suggest you focus on the t-stat and how it works with your manifold. There is a recirculating feature when the engine/coolant is cold. When cold the t-star is closed but the recirculating valve (at the bottom of the t-stat) is open. That valve should close as the t-stat warms and allows coolant flow to the radiator. I think somehow that recirculating valve is not closing completely allowing hot coolant to return to the engine without visiting the radiator.
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post #45 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 06:23 PM
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Interesting...in an earlier post you say Alfaholics recommended installing the temperature sensor for the fan in the BOTTOM hose, where the water is cooler?
I won’t argue with the theory, but I’d consider getting a fan triggered at a lower temperature, or move the sensor to the top hose.
By the time the water at the bottom of your radiator is 190 degrees, the temperature at the top of the radiator will be tens-of-degrees hotter....which is indeed what you are seeing.
I’d revisit that.

And yes, you can get thermostats with different opening temperatures. I wouldn’t have thought a reputable Alfa vendor would sell you one with way too high rating, but errors can occur.
Chas H says don’t run without thermostat. Good advice....but no harm doing a short term test to see what happens. Removing it may also let you see what temperature rating it actually is (stamped on?, or a model number?), or to do the put-it-in-a-pot-with-a-thermometer thing and see at what temperature it actually opens, and that it opens more than just a crack.

From what I’ve read above, I don’t reckon you have fallen for putting a pusher fan behind the radiator instead of in front, or messed with the wiring so it runs backwards, but you can buy fans which are much more efficient than others (higher CFM-rated, better blade design). The $25 specials might not cut it.
Suggest eliminating those possibilities too, as others have said.
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