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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Power Window issue

In replacing the door stop strap on the drivers door I unfastened the three nuts on the power window regulator. I reattached the three bolts and now have window issues.

I now have significant slack and the spool is completely out with the windows down. I received a drawing today of the system and plan to dig in deeper when I have a chance.

How does the regulator work. Have I unspooled it? Can I despoil it and get proper tension back or do I need to replace the regulator now that I have unspooled it?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry- I meant can I respool the cable on the regulator or do I have to replace it?
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:34 PM
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I Have done a lot of searching and reading the varies threads on it, sounds like a lot a time (10 hours was mentioned) in unwinding the shredded cable from the spool and more time in installing new cable which is a different size, since the same size cable is not available.

Plus there was problems of keeping the cable taught on the spool when re cabling it.

I decided to buy the replacement power window mechanism from Centerline for $259. Wasn't hard to install and I'm happy with it.

There are some adjustments you can make on the glass clasp but no matter what I did with the new mechanism the window sits proud of the door when fully opened by about 1/4 ". With the old power window mechanism the glass did not stick above the door frame at all. Wish the new mechanism didn't do that but I can live with it.

The window also goes above the wing window frame when all the way up about the same amount but the old power window mechanism did the same.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:35 AM
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there are adjustable stoppers for window going up at the bottom of window were the cable attaches !
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 08:24 AM
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yes, original AR window mechanisms have decent stops,
but I wonder if msiert means these retrofit winders that do away with all the cable spaghetti nonsense?
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/5854818-post9.html

youtube vid. shows how to fit the orig. cable mechanism.....
Tools needed: angle grinder, welder and a spray booth.
easy
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderserie4 View Post
I wonder if msiert means these retrofit winders that do away with all the cable spaghetti nonsense?

https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/5854818-post9.html
Yes, I meant the retrofit.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:30 PM
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If there is any slack in the spool, you will have an issue.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:32 PM
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I hear ya, thanx !
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 04:48 PM
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when I have done this nightmare job in the past, I used several zip ties to keep the cables on the spool...otherwise it's a cluster F keeping it all tight and getting the cables on the pully's. Took too many attempts to get it right. Had to walk away from the task several times.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 07:17 PM
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When you unbolted the power window motor unit from the door, you probably allowed enough slack in the cable to have it slip off of one (or more) of the six guide rollers, or let the two cables tangle up with each other on the motor spool. Either way, you probably don't need to buy a new window motor, or cable, you just need to correct the routing of the cable, both around the six rollers in the door and the window motor spool.

Both ends of the cable terminate at the outer flanges of the motor spool, and are wound towards the middle where they just about overlap. As the motor turns, one cable unwinds from the spool whilst the other cable winds up onto the spool, taking the place of the unwound wraps. The motor spool has grooves that the cables ride in, that almost look like threads on a bolt. The system should always have enough tension to keep the cables from coming off the rollers and from unravelling and getting bound up with each other at the spool. When a new cable motor comes from a vendor, the cables are pre-wrapped on the spool, with both ends starting from the spool's outer flanges and meeting near the center where they are secured to each other with a strap or cord. This strap keeps the cables tightly and neatly wound on the spool so they don't get tangled during transit or installation. Once the motor is bolted to the door skin, and the remaining cable lengths are wrapped over the six rollers, the strap or cord securing them to the spool is cut and removed.

I had the cable in my driver's side door come loose when I replaced the window, and it really got horsed up at the spool. With the help of a friend (who applied constant tension on the cable) I was able to carefully operate the motor back and forth to free up the tangles at the spool and get the two cable ends to lay down properly again in the spool grooves in situ, but it took about an hour. Another option is to remove the motor and cable assembly completely from the door, re-wrap the cables on the motor spool correctly, secure them where they meet in the center of the spool with a wire tie or cord, reinstall the motor, route the remaining loop of cable properly around the rollers, then cut the wire tie that is holding the two cables tightly on the spool.

Keep in mind that one of the upper rollers (the second one from the back of the door) is bolted in a slot in the sheet metal, and this roller is designed to be moved forward or back in it's slot to allow for a slight adjustment in the system's cable tension.
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Last edited by Norseman50; 05-16-2019 at 07:22 PM.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 05:18 AM
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well I replaced the broken cable with a new one and reinstalled the whole thing in about an hour, not to bad, but it took me longer to adjust the stops and tracks for smooth and full operation, but it worked out well !!!
thanx all !!
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Bullet- nice job. After a couple of hours working with the spool I purchased the retrofit kit. No merit badge here.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 08:43 AM
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probably better off in the long run !!
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Finally found some time to install the drivers side power window kit from Centerline. Kit went in very nicely without any drilling needed. Window operation up/down is very smooth. Unfortunately the window doesn’t go down all the way. Leaves about 1/4” of window showing with window clamp all the way against the stop on the bottom. Stop is touching the bottom of the inside of the door so no way to modify that I can see to get another 1/4” of travel down. Has anyone seen this before? ‘86 Quad S3.

I am very appreciative of all the help on this BB. I am happy to ship my window cable, pulleys and regulator assembly/motor to anyone that could benefit from it.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 04:41 PM
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I am not familiar with Centerline's regulator but usually there is a bottom/ and or top stop that is adjustable. If the instructions make no mention of it I would be inclined to call Centerline for some tech support unless someone knowledgeable of these units chimes in!
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