Broken exhaust stud - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Broken exhaust stud

As I rebuilt my cylinder head over the winter, I was in need of an exhaust stud.

Rather than wait for an official replacement, I used something from my local fastener outlet that, I was warned, might be too brittle for my application.

Driving at night, I hit a big pothole and that stud broke. There isnít enough of the stud left to grab. Iíll have to get creative. The exhaust still seems to seal fine below about 2k RPM, but above that it sounds awful.

Seems I have no choice but to pull of the cylinder head again to properly extract the stud. F**K!

Before I do, Iím hoping against hope that someone here can provide me with a suitable bodge. Is there some product that would provide a suitable seal where there is no stud?

JB high heat putty, maybe?

Anything?

1976 Spider
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Canadian Spider View Post
As I rebuilt my cylinder head over the winter, I was in need of an exhaust stud.

Rather than wait for an official replacement, I used something from my local fastener outlet that, I was warned, might be too brittle for my application.

Driving at night, I hit a big pothole and that stud broke. There isn’t enough of the stud left to grab. I’ll have to get creative. The exhaust still seems to seal fine below about 2k RPM, but above that it sounds awful.

Seems I have no choice but to pull of the cylinder head again to properly extract the stud. F**K!

Before I do, I’m hoping against hope that someone here can provide me with a suitable bodge. Is there some product that would provide a suitable seal where there is no stud?

JB high heat putty, maybe?

Anything?
Sorry no quick work around, but I have broken a few studs myself. If you can't grab it as you say, I would call in an expert.

You can find them on Kijiji and most times, they come to you. They have all the proper tools to get that stud out. Think I paid around $100 or so.

And of course, replace with the right stud. I am sure you can get one from Pino at Pinorello Motori in Woodbridge.

Good luck,

Vin
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:13 PM
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If there is enough of the stud sticking above the surface, you may be able to put a oversized nut around the broken portion and apply a spot weld on the stud and nut. This might allow you to back off on the nut and unscrew the stud. Caution...run this by a welder and get their thoughts. Sensitive area!!!
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks gents.

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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:56 PM
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Not on the Alfa but Nissan V6's have an issue with exhaust manifold studs breaking due to heat cycles. I have had good luck drilling into the stud and using an easy out. If it has not been in there that long it may come out fairly easy...
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 05:29 PM
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I'm with Vintre...your local mobile thread services man has the tools to do whatever is required quickly and easily, for little $ if you give him easy access.
In my case...$20, coz he was already in my area.
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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I'm with Vintre...your local mobile thread services man has the tools to do whatever is required quickly and easily, for little $ if you give him easy access.
In my case...$20, coz he was already in my area.
Access is the whole thing. With access, I can handle it. I just really don’t want to remove the head again.

When it comes to drilling out the broken stud, what kind of safety margin do I have? Are there oil or coolant passages very near the hole?

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Last edited by Canadian Spider; 05-14-2019 at 07:27 AM.
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 08:05 AM
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Access is the whole thing. With access, I can handle it. I just really donít want to remove the head again.
When it comes to drilling out the broken stud, what kind of safety margin do I have? Are there oil or coolant passages very near the hole?
what cylinder and which stud, upper or lower?
the exhaust studs are 44mm total length, and the shorter side is what screrws into the head so you need to be a little careful, for sure.

maybe try a reverse drill, as the stud is basically new, it might move it out?

as you say its all down to access, but I'd sure prefer to remove a few ancilliaries to make space, than take off the head again

(fyi: the head thread is 8 x 1.25; the nut thread is 8 x 1.00 - use only brass nuts!)

and replace with a correct alfa stud, even used studs are better than hardware shop stuff.

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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:12 AM
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A very common fix is to weld a nut on the stud and unscrew it. You aren't going to have a pool of aluminum. Probably a 10 minute job.after you have poked around setting up a welder.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Cylinder 3, lower.

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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian Spider View Post
Access is the whole thing. With access, I can handle it. I just really donít want to remove the head again.

When it comes to drilling out the broken stud, what kind of safety margin do I have? Are there oil or coolant passages very near the hole?
I would suggest you do not try drilling. In that awkward place. Leads to broken off drills, easyouts etc.

Weld on a washer then weld on a nut to washer or call an expert.

Fwiw

Ken

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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 03:49 PM
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By 'access', you only need the manifold out of the way....not the head off. You'd have to do this to try welding a nut on or other things anyway.
There's then enough clearance, and these guys have the right tools, to do it with the head in situ.
Talk to one over the phone...
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:02 PM
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keep telling people here replace all the head studs with a allen set screw the oem studs are only in 10 or so mm into the block... with calipers , measure depth of threading into the block to fluch on face.. then measure thickness off manifolds, exhaust and intake. ad 15 mm. buy as many as you need... add blue Loctite.. screw into the block with really small allen key let sit for an hour, ready to go
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:11 PM
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I like those.
Bianchi - most studs seem to have a coarse inner thread, said to grip the soft alloy block, and a fine outer thread which accepts an increased amount of torque for whatever you're attaching.
With the Allen-head studs, you obviously don't get that thread differential...but I'm not sure that's a real problem. I take it you would agree?
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:15 PM
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ranz, I never had a problem with them while I hade my oem engine.. I stalled a lot of these for customers , when I worked at alfetta motors.
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