Water pump removal and replacement 1985 Spider - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Water pump removal and replacement 1985 Spider

Any admonishments, warnings a or suggestions before I start?

Alfacat
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 09:11 AM
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Yes, read this thread: https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...t-newbies.html

Note that the BB has a pretty good search function (use the advanced search feature). And when that doesn't work, just type something like "Alfa water pump replacement" into Google and it will suggest pertinent BB threads.

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'63 Guilia spider
'65 Guilia Sprint GT
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 03:11 AM
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my favorite way of searching is a search term followed by comma alfabb (, alfabb) all in quotation marks, and I search on google images. The ,alfabb gives you most every answer on bb and some others where bb has been quoted.
never fails
eg: "water pump replacement, alfabb"
don't even need to mention alfa water pump, as alfabb is only alfa!

images search throws up lots of photos where you can immediately see, ah ha, that photo looks exactly what I need, without ploughing thru' lots of words

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 08:01 AM
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Getting the front pulley nut off to remove the pulley is the biggest bugaboo (pulley blocks pump from coming fully off). Sometimes if you double-nut and remove the lower pump studs you can twist/sneak the pump past the pulley without removing it, but mostly that's not been my experience.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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Progress thus far

OK. Update. Pump is loose, but have encountered the problem of not getting pump off due to crankshaft pulley impingement. Have not tried the double nut solution and am extremely skeptical of it going well. Dont have the tool necessary for removing the nut on crank pulley. I love this car, but really feel it is a pia when it comes performing a reasonably straight forward job. Considering having it towed to my mechanic.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 06:15 AM
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Don't fret, just take a deep breath. You need to remove that bottom stud, not hard it is just an 1/8th of a turn at a time. Granted, it is no fun but nothing to keep you from doing it yourself. AlfaBB is always here to help.... think of the satisfaction you will have when you fire it up!
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Progress to date

Got it off. Used the double nut method and stud came right out. Lucky for me and knock on wood. Doing cleanup of mounting surface. Paper gasket that came with pump seems cheap so I plan to use water pump permatex gasket sealer on both surfaces for good seal. Off to the races.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Update-Progress. Pump is off via double nut method. Now trying to figure out how to get at the bypass hose clamp at the top. Lots of stuff in the way that I would prefer to not have to remove.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by alfacat View Post
Update-Progress. Pump is off via double nut method. Now trying to figure out how to get at the bypass hose clamp at the top. Lots of stuff in the way that I would prefer to not have to remove.
Shouldn't have to move anything out of the way, just have to work your way into the little gap. Move the clamp around until you can get a good view of the nut holding it on, it's really annoying but you should be able to do it without removing anything.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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New issue. Preparing for reassembly. Paper gasket that came with pump seems thin/cheap. Is gasket sealer a good idea? Read that silicone and paper together are risky. Permatex makes a sealer specifically for water pumps and thermostats. Centerline sell a better gasket but were out. Want to insure against leaks.

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 07:13 AM
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Yes, the gasket that comes with the pump is useless. Usually you have an option for a few dollars more and they will send a real gasket. I am not a fan of Permatex or other silicone based sealers for gasket dressing. I prefer Hylomar or similar product. As much if a PITA swapping the water pump I would make sure it is right the first time. Nothing worse than completing that job and seeing a "drip,drip" at start up. Go to an auto parts store, get some real gasket material and break out the x-acto knife..... Use that cheap piece of paper for a template.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 07:14 AM
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My water pump came with specific instructions to install the paper gasket dry. Have had no leaks after doing so. Same with a dry installed intake manifold gasket. YMMV. Make sure the surfaces are clean.

If you do use sealant use VERY LITTLE. People slather the stuff on and then it either clogs the water passages or makes it hell for the next guy to get it all off.

Tom

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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New issue. Reassembly complete. Went to fire it up and fuel spraying everywhere. Apparently with fighting to get at top clamp for bypass hose, rubbed hole in braided fuel line that goes into the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator. It has an odd clamp which has a philips head screw. Fortunately I could cut the hose end to get beyond hole, but clamp looks destroyed. I assume a clamp is a clamp in this situation. Also pulled plug wire out of distributor so need the configuration of plugs wires into distributor cap.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 05:23 AM
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Actually, a clamp is not a clamp in this situation. A regular hose clamp is not sufficient. Go to the auto parts store and get a clamp for high pressure fuel line. Standing at the front of the car, the cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4, starting at the front and going back. Firing order is 1-3-4-2. #1 SHOULD be the foreward most connection on the distributor, then go counterclockwise in the firing order. If it doesn't run you are probably 1 off on #1. Pull # one cylinder spark plug and run piston to TDC (top dead center.) you can use something to feel piston come up cylinder bore as you rotate crank pulley. When you get to the top the distributor rotor will be pointing at #1 contact....
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Success. Job complete and car is running with no apparent leaks. Noticed a drip in the area of the middle exhaust in area of driveshaft tunnel. Has no obvious odor ( gasoline). Wonder if it is condensation from the exhaust. Appears rusty on driveway.
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