73 Spider "Parts Car" - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #46 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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From my previous post I changed out the front crank seal. Pulley looked good. I think I put in the wrong seal I had on the shelf. I don't know what other alfa seal would be close but off? I obtained another seal from Centerline and it went in easier and does not leak.

As The car is laid up for the winter I decided to rebuild the front & rear suspensions. When I moved the car around previously I notice the front wheels had play in various places. Upon inspection most of the bushings, ball joints, & tie rod ends were worn. I cleaned, media blasted, & painted parts I reused and changed every bushing, ball joint, upper control arms (adjustable type), & tie rod end in the suspension.

The car runs rich and the pump gap does not change from cold to hot. I previously measured the TA both cold and hot and it is within spec. I would not expect the TA to exert much force when extending when hot. Is it possible the "plunger" that the TA pushes on is frozen? I have not heard of this happening but I'm starting to wonder.
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Last edited by Delllta; 03-11-2019 at 06:07 PM.
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post #47 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 03:34 PM
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those parts look nice, great job. Pull the TA out of the SPICA pump and press down on the screwhead inside there to see of the gap changes (pull the long rod off first tho).

You might have a bat tstat (coolant not getting hot enough to heat the TA bulb), misadjusted long or short rod, or spica pump issue.
archeologist and autobroker like this.

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71 Spider 1750 BOMBER ; 1995 LS 78K tight fast car
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post #48 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

I played with the injection pump TA plunger; it was stuck. I sprayed penetrating oil into the cavity and manipulated the plunger; with little effort it freed up and I could make the lever move manually. Even though I tested the TA outside of the car (heated water bath) for extension I think it's bad so I'm going to order another one. Lever arms are adjusted correctly and the coolant temp is 185F. Car starts and runs fine (although rich!). As this car is (hopefully not was) a budget build I'm trying to test every component before replacing. We'll see how the new/rebuilt TA works.

I replaced the missing (sheared rivet) trunk spring bracket. Trunk now stays up. There is an excellent write-up on this in the BB (by another poster).

I was concerned about the spare tire well integrity (looked pretty crusty/rusty) so I took it down to bare metal. Pretty good with one small pinhole that I'll weld up, clean and spray trunk bed liner on it (glad I got this car from Southern Cal!).
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post #49 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:36 PM
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Great job! You do meticulous work - I'm impressed!

Patiently waiting for more updates.
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post #50 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Worked on the SPICA some more. Pulled the Thermostatic Actuator (TA) and installed my own fabricated "dummy" TA (and set the pump gap). Plugged the TA hole in the intake manifold with a bespoke plug & o-ring from Pierce Manifolds (weber distributor). If the injection dials in I'll buy a replacement TA. Borrowed the bellcrank adjusting tool (for setting idle & open stop screws on the intake manifold) from John Stewart (Roadtrip); thanks John made the job easy! Adjusted the short & long throttle rods, rechecked the ignition timing, and finally installed the air cleaner assembly.

The car now idles smoothly at 700 rpm and rev's freely. I still have a problem though; after reving the motor there is a delay in returning to idle (it does it but with a delay). I need to learn more about the function of the fuel cutoff solenoid & the micro-switch (the micro-switch wire is broken off at the switch).
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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 04:52 PM
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Delllta,
You are pedantic toward the mechanical realm and that's good! Looks very nice! Meticulous work!
Greg

"No chance, no destiny, no fate can circumvent, change or control the firm resolve of a determined soul"

73 Spider
80 BMW e21(Sold, gone to Houston)
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78 Spider (sold, gone to U K)
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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 05:02 PM
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Wow... I mean oh...wow......somewhere I guess i missed the A-train... whatever spins the dial.. John..you sure about this?
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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 06:09 PM
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Also check the distributor weights if they stick it may also cause that issue. good luck
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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otteud96 View Post
Also check the distributor weights if they stick it may also cause that issue. good luck

YES!!!!!!

It's Giuseppe's giubos, not Guido's guibos, on my 78 Spider and Sport Sedan
REFRESH CONNECTIONS BEFORE REPLACING COMPONENTS
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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 05:17 PM
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In an earlier thread your cylinder head (around spark plug area) went from crusty to clean, what was your technique?
NICE WORK/WRITE UP!
Thanks!!
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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 05:58 AM
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Hey John
All good suggestions about the "hanging idle" Even with the tool to set the Geometry of the bell crank and the long and short rods, there is a balance screw that sets the relationship of the front two butterflies to the rear two. I have even seen them bent and hang open a bit causing your problem. I use the old side draft carb tool Uni-Syn to check that all are sucking evenly. Lookin good... I envy ya'll with these early spicas cars. I have had over 35 you think I would have kept one or two. They are the best performing most reliable.
RML
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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVSpider View Post
In an earlier thread your cylinder head (around spark plug area) went from crusty to clean, what was your technique?
NICE WORK/WRITE UP!
Thanks!!
I initially cleaned the area with paper towels and carb cleaner. I then removed the spark plugs and plugged the holes with more paper towels. Using fine steel wool and carb cleaner (my carb cleaner of choice is Chemtool however Walmart's generic carb cleaner is close and cheap so I use it) I carefully clean the area. Finally going back over the area with more paper towels and cleaner. With this head most of the original luster came back.
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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ballough510 View Post
Hey John
All good suggestions about the "hanging idle" Even with the tool to set the Geometry of the bell crank and the long and short rods, there is a balance screw that sets the relationship of the front two butterflies to the rear two. I have even seen them bent and hang open a bit causing your problem. I use the old side draft carb tool Uni-Syn to check that all are sucking evenly. Lookin good... I envy ya'll with these early spicas cars. I have had over 35 you think I would have kept one or two. They are the best performing most reliable.
RML
f

Rick, I played with the balance screw using a feeler gauge between the butterfly's and housing. I didn't think to use a unisyn tool (al la Weber's) so I'll try that next; thanks for that. I'm currently down in Monterey for the vintage races and events (car heaven) so I'll check it when I get back home.
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