Front End Alignment - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-01-2018, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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@ghnl,

I am not sure why I can't see any attachments and am unable to see your attachment. What could I be doing wrong?

Thanks.

Brian.
--figured out the problem, filtration on my browser. Sorry for the false alarm!
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-01-2018, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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What is the correct order of adjustments and proceedure?

I'm wondering what is the correct order of adjustment?

I am thinking of doing the following:

1. install adjustable upper A-arm to same length as-found condition and leave the final camber to an alignment shop. What camber should I request? What range based on use? Is there a guide?

2. install castor control rods to equal length, spitting the difference between the two as-found lengths, i.e. (14 5/8" + 15")/2 = 14 13/16". The final adjustment will be made by the alignment shop. What castor is required?

3. perform string method, per papajam post, for adjusting toe-in.

One more data point that i should mention. I have installed most of the Alfaholics fast road suspension stage 2 package, with the quick steering arms. So the car is lowered 1" or so.

https://www.alfaholics.com/race-part...ild-package-2/

I would appreciate any pointers and comments.

Thanks to all for the help and Happy New Year!

Brian.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 01:28 AM
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Spydaman...
Have you got a service Manual applicable to your car?
Mine (Autobooks) says to ignore the 5mm differential in tie rod lengths for RHD cars. I.e. Same lengths each side for RHD.
Have no idea why the differential is there for LHD only... but take care.
Interestingly, the acceptable range for tie rod lengths recommended is different in different manuals I have:
Autobooks poublication ('62-78 cars) 264-280mm (didn't differentiate between models)
Intereurope publication ('59-69 cars) 283-293mm for Giulia Sprint GT, which it appears you have.

The Intereurope publication is far more detailed and specific on many service item details, which I lean to trusting. Again, tho, take care.
Having said that, you also mention a 'Wandering' problem. Have you gone w-i-d-e with your tyres, and/or maybe have Mags with an usual offset? Wider tyres wander and follow ridges more. Wrong offset will play havoc. BB wisdom also seems to say castor can affect centering feel.
There could be more at play here.
I have the Autobooks manual and it shows slightly different values RHD as opposed to LHD.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 02:40 AM
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Spydaman - yes, exactly, RHD cars same length tie rods, LHD 5mm difference. And you do have a reference manual for the acceptable range in overall length... So your question now is...???
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 04:06 AM
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If it is set up properly why do I still have the wanders

Current cars 1975 spyder under resto, 1973 Berlina Resto 1976 Berlina parts car 1972 GTjunior fully restored, 1 complete rolling shell spyder.exit 1989 75 T/S sold
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 08:22 PM
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Spydaman,
If you've crawled under the car and verified equal, in-spec tie rod lengths, your bushes and ball joints are all new, and your print-out from the alignment shop shows specs which agree with the manual you have...then I'm out of suggestions and go back to my previous post with questions about wide tyres and potentially wrong wheel offsets.
What are your wheel/tyre specs?
Have you done anything else with the suspension components?

Not saying I know enough to solve the riddle, but it's another place to look if they are way different from stock.

Something else to consider may be a dud shock, or different shock settings side-to-side. Do they bounce the same? Any oil leakage in one?
Or, are the back end bushes etc as fresh as the front? A moving rear end can affect the steering, especially on/off throttle.
A little more information about when you notice the problem may prompt some more advice - over bumps, longitudinal ridges, straight line...etc.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranz View Post
Spydaman,
If you've crawled under the car and verified equal, in-spec tie rod lengths, your bushes and ball joints are all new, and your print-out from the alignment shop shows specs which agree with the manual you have...then I'm out of suggestions and go back to my previous post with questions about wide tyres and potentially wrong wheel offsets.
What are your wheel/tyre specs?
Have you done anything else with the suspension components?

Not saying I know enough to solve the riddle, but it's another place to look if they are way different from stock.

Something else to consider may be a dud shock, or different shock settings side-to-side. Do they bounce the same? Any oil leakage in one?
Or, are the back end bushes etc as fresh as the front? A moving rear end can affect the steering, especially on/off throttle.
A little more information about when you notice the problem may prompt some more advice - over bumps, longitudinal ridges, straight line...etc.
Ok tie rods in spec the steering box has been rebuilt about 4 years ago by the previous I've had the car 3 years. Put new tyres on same size and brand as was on previous. Tyre supplier did the wheel alignment I run 34 P.s.i. front and 32 in the rear . The car wanders left and right not much but enough to know it's not right. The shocks are koni yellow and perfect and set correctly it has Vin Sharps
fast street & track springs and Alfaholics alloy Kbar all bushes are rubber and were all replaced when car was off the road for resto front sway bar is a droplink. Is there an adjustment on the steering box to take up slack?? No oil leaks from shocks and settings have not been changed.The car handles beautifully just a little wander which is upsetting.I may try a little negative camber.

Current cars 1975 spyder under resto, 1973 Berlina Resto 1976 Berlina parts car 1972 GTjunior fully restored, 1 complete rolling shell spyder.exit 1989 75 T/S sold
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 07:02 AM
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Try 2-4 psi lower in front vs the rear. Won't cost anything and might help.

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 07:16 AM
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Is it possible that the driver caliper is sticking or dragging?

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 07:48 AM
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I would contact Alfaholics and ask them for their recommended castor, camber and toe settings and see if they are different from what you have. Castor affects straight line stability and the Alfa spec is fairly wide so you could try increasing the length of both castor arms 1 turn at a time to see if it helps.

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2018, 05:04 PM
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My wandering problem is solved, the service station where I was checking my tyre pressure had a faulty gauge .As a consequence of that I had wildly different tyre pressure in all tyres.....Regards John
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2018, 07:14 PM
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I hope you decided do install adjustable upper control arms when you started. I think this and a chassis stiffener are two of the nicest things you can do to a good Spider's suspension. They make the front suspension solid and completely adjustable. A one time four wheel alignment is good to make sure all the wheels are rolling in the same direction. If you don't use a Hardtop, make sure the big spacers are removed from atop of the rear springs. Good tires and nice wheels will make the ride so nice. I like about 1 1/2 degrees of Camber although I have use three degrees when in a Summer when I'm doing Solo-IIs.

......... Bud Feigel ........<Oo \*/ oO>....... Lexington, Kentucky ........
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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@Little Italian,

Yes i have the adjustable upper control arms with urethane bushings, per the Alfaholics kit. I am hoping to have everything together by March.

All,

Thanks for the recommendations and comments.

Brian.
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