Engine Seized? - Page 6 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #76 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-12-2017, 07:26 PM
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I've used a 1/2 inch impact gun on the head pullers and never had a spark plug thread to strip. But the head pullers I was using were Alfa factory ones. The trick to getting a stuck head off. Is getting to move it up and done even a little bit. Keep soaking the studs from the top with rust penetrant. PB blaster, Kroil and/or Mopar Rust Penetrant. All of these are the best ones to use especially the last 2.

When you get it to move up spray the studs some more then take a rubber mallet and knock the head back down. Kept repeating this. It will come off if you can get it moving. Some heads can just take time to get off.

1969 1750 Spider Veloce w/dual webers, 1969 1750 Berlina, 1971 1750 Spider Veloce w/ dual webers, 1985 Spider Veloce 23,000 orig. miles, {Two} 1986 Spider Veloces, 1987 Spider Veloce bought new, 1988 Quadrifoglio, 1991 164S, Plus several more. I think they are breeding.
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I just got 2 more. Now I have a Matta. I must be crazy.
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post #77 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-12-2017, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Two things I forgot to mention:

1) The head gasket was complete crap. It looked like it was seeping oil everywhere.

2) Neither my head or block have the three notorious oil channels at the back...the ones you have to apply sealant around when you put on a new gasket. Is that of any significance?

-Kevin
1988 Spider Veloce (with lots of 3D printed parts)

Last edited by Shakey; 10-12-2017 at 08:03 PM.
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post #78 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 06:51 AM
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There is someone on the ABB who makes and sells adapters that grip the block but the motor mount threads. Forget the name but will look it up today. I bought one and like the looks of it though I haven't yet used it.
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post #79 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 09:18 AM
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There is someone on the ABB who makes and sells adapters that grip the block but the motor mount threads. Forget the name but will look it up today. I bought one and like the looks of it though I haven't yet used it.
I bought one from Jim Steck many years ago but he no longer makes them. It is simple, a plate welded to a tube with holes to match the engine mount studs. I have seen one made from an old engine mount welded to a tube.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #80 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 10:02 AM
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Take it to your local friendly Alfa mechanic.
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post #81 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 11:47 AM
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If you search for "Engine Mount" on the BB you will find a good design for a side (Alfa Engine Mount) adapter for the HF engine stand. Easy to weld up or have a shop do it for you.

OTOH, Last time I pulled my motor, I mounted it from the bell housinig.

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post #82 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 02:06 PM
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Take it to your local friendly Alfa mechanic.
Perhaps you can recommend one in Columbia Missouri or even Columbia South Carolina!

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #83 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 03:17 PM
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Been following this thread for a few days and is fascinating. Great tips from all members. Kevin, I would suggest since you've reached the point of no return with this project, to do a full rebuild of the engine and quite possibly the trans also since you have it out. You'll love the car more for it. If you can diagnose the problem with the tear down, rebuild everything and put it all back together entirely on your own, you are automatically enshrined in the hall of fame on this BB IMHO. Not to mention all the hard to find bits you've helped people with the 3D printing. If you can, please post some pictures of the project. We all love pictures!

BTW, the engine wire clips you printed me a while back are still holding up strong!
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post #84 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 04:49 PM
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I found some old correspondence about the engine hoist adapter. The name is Luigi Oldani and he works out of his business Oldani Art Studio in Oakland, CA. I did not find him on the member list but then I don't know his user ID. That's all I know about him but may be able to find an email address if any one is interested.
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post #85 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 05:15 PM
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I have an email, I can ping him. He's around, not sure whether he's still making these.
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post #86 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 10:21 PM
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I made a side mount adapter out of a 10" long piece of 2"x5" rectangular tubing (1/4" thick steel). But I wish I had used a 6"x6" square tube like you have Kevin = makes it easier to attach the nuts inside.
The nice thing about a side mount is that you can rotate the top or bottom or front or rear of the block upwards. Makes it real easy to work on front and rear seals, sump pan, valves, etc.
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post #87 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 01:46 AM
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With all the things tried I say take the top off the block to see what's going on in the cylinders and pistons.
If that doesn't show any thing amiss I'll take the block out or remove the oil pan and check the bearings.
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post #88 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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In my available time today, I plan on dropping the trans. The head provided no clues, and I see nothing amiss looking at the top of the pistons, etc.

It's time to put the engine on a stand, and eviscerate it to find out what's wrong. I'll make the side mount adapter, and affix it in that manner.

My engine overhaul manual arrived in the mail yesterday; I browsed through it briefly. Some good detailed info in there. It actually spells out a procedure to remove the engine while leaving the trans in the car, but I'm going to drop the trans anyway. When I took the shifter out, I noticed it had been seeping oil from the top...one of the rubber items is damaged there, so it's a chance to resolve that problem.

I am contemplating addressing my second gear synchro issue (the usual crunching) while it's out. I'm not sure I want to get that involved with an 'annoyance' in an otherwise fine transmission. It seems that's how I got in this position with the engine in the first place!

@Quadster, unfortunately I am the local friendly Alfa mechanic! There is a guy in town who owns a small auto repair shop, who once owned a Spider. He replaced the clutch for me last year (I provided all the parts), but he's not right for this job.

@fish343434, I appreciate the comments. I'll start including photos. It is tempting to do a full rebuild. There are certainly items I'm going to address while I have the engine out...motor mounts and head gaskets were on my to-do list already. I've discovered a few things that need attention.
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-Kevin
1988 Spider Veloce (with lots of 3D printed parts)
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post #89 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 09:04 AM
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Kevin, it seems to me that separating the gearbox from the block, and dropping it from below is a lot of extra work. If you are going to pull the engine anyway, why not simply disconnect the propshaft from the gearbox and lift the motor and gearbox together?

Edward
'88 Quad - "Claudia"
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post #90 of 572 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 09:34 AM
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How good is your paint and how much help will you have? Dropping the tranny and then removing the engine is less likely to scratch up the car and lifting the motor will be a one man job.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
76 Suzuki GT500
2011 Jaguar XKR

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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