Engine Seized? - Page 34 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #496 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-09-2018, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Tomorrow (Sunday) is the big day!

All I have left to do, is to install the plenum, and the silicone hose kit I bought from Hi Performance Store. Once that is complete, I'll double-check everything to ensure that all electrical connectors and hoses are gainfully employed, and there are no vacant orifices. I'll put the battery on the charger tomorrow, to ensure it's ready. Oil and coolant are standing by, ready to be added to the engine.

I recognize it's preferable to build up oil and fuel pressure before actually firing up the engine. I'm guessing an acceptable method is to remove the spark plugs, and crank the starter briefly. If anyone has any pearls of wisdom for this magic moment, I'm all ears.

The car is still up on jack-stands so I can check for leaks, or perform any needed troubleshooting. If this thing actually starts, nobody will me more surprised than I!

-Kevin
1988 Spider Veloce (with lots of 3D printed parts)
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post #497 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-09-2018, 10:30 PM
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Did you put Redline in the rebuilt gearbox?
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post #498 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakey View Post
I recognize it's preferable to build up oil and fuel pressure before actually firing up the engine. I'm guessing an acceptable method is to remove the spark plugs, and crank the starter briefly. If anyone has any pearls of wisdom for this magic moment, I'm all ears.
Yep that is how you do it.
Pete

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post #499 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman50 View Post
Did you put Redline in the rebuilt gearbox?
Yes I did! I put the oil in before reinstalling it in the car, precisely because I was afraid I'd forget. The 'out of sight, out of mind' thing.

It's been one of my concerns that I would ultimately forget to put fluids in the car, so I've been using a sort of 'lock-out, tag-out' system like electricians use: I still have a piece of red yarn tied around the radiator cap, and another piece tied around the oil cap, to remind me that they still need fluids.

If it's dumb and it works, it's not dumb.

-Kevin
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post #500 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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I have a final 'before-start' question. I want to run it past the brain trust.

In this photo, we're looking down along the dipstick tube, focused on a sensor that's in the block, just aft of the tube:



The question is about the wiring connector. There's a single blade-type connector that attaches to the sensor. The cable also includes a two-pin connector, similar to that on a fuel injector. There is no other component within reach of the cable for that connector to mate to. My disassembly photo is pretty dark.

I'm guessing that the wiring harness is made to connect to two possible styles of sensor. I can connect to just one pin, but also to two too. (I had to go for it!).

Anyone have any wisdom on this?

-Kevin
1988 Spider Veloce (with lots of 3D printed parts)

Last edited by Shakey; 06-10-2018 at 11:56 AM.
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post #501 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 11:15 AM
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The O2 sensor has that configuration. Single spade to the green wire, the Bosch connector is for the heater element, power and ground.

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post #502 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 11:33 AM
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Just took photos, hope this helps. Looks like you have a single plastic black female connector to find and attach for oil sender.
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post #503 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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@John533i, you are the man!

I found all the connections you mentioned and illustrated. Everything is in the right place now. I was beginning to wonder if the PO had hosed me somehow, but it was all self-inflicted.

Thanks!
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-Kevin
1988 Spider Veloce (with lots of 3D printed parts)
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post #504 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Success!



The Good:
-No fuel leaks
-No oil leaks
-No coolant leaks (I had to tighten the lower radiator hose a bit more when I started filling it).
-Good oil pressure (one tick mark above 57psi at idle)
-No alarming noises or vibrations of any sort emanating from the engine

The Bad:
-It's still on jackstands, it's now dark, and I have to stop for the night.

I cranked it a few times with the spark plugs removed, then reinstalled the plugs. It fired up on the second try!

It wouldn't stay running more than a few seconds, but if I feathered the throttle, I could keep it going. Although I initially had visions of a serious bout of L-Jetronic troubleshooting, I eventually determined it to be a problem with the electrical connection to the aux air valve. I cleaned out the connector, and problem solved!

It now starts and idles fine. I also took the opportunity to run the trans through the gears. Everything seems to work fine there as well. I didn't want to run the car too much until I can get it on the ground, and drive it a bit to seat the piston rings.

I'll continue to check for leaks while I get the center console reinstalled.

I'll keep everyone posted, as I start to wrap up this project.

-Kevin
1988 Spider Veloce (with lots of 3D printed parts)

Last edited by Shakey; 06-12-2018 at 09:06 AM.
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post #505 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 08:47 PM
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Congrats.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakey View Post
-No fuel leaks
-No oil leaks
-No coolant leaks
Yeah, good luck with that
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Tom

1963 Giulia Spider (1750 engine)
1974 GTV
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post #506 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 06:35 AM
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Far Out!! It's official, you are in!

The passenger seat is 15 miles an hour faster than the drivers seat.

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post #507 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 06:02 PM
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Great job, congrats!!
Now get that thing off the stands and run it around the block!

[FONT="Microsoft Sans Serif"]Don - 1984 Spider Veloce[/FONT]
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post #508 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 08:30 PM
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You are the man, Kevin. Your dedication and attention to detail have impressed all of us. Congratulations!
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post #509 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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I have an interesting situation to share:

About mid-day yesterday, I thought I'd go out and start the Alfa again. After all, the fact that my newly-reinstalled engine even ran at all could have been a dream, or a hallucination induced by a steady diet of Oreo cookies and Diet Mountain Dew.

Crap! Similar problem as the day before: starts, runs fine briefly, but won't idle without feathering the accelerator pedal. I had changed nothing since Sunday evening, when it was starting and idling fine. The fact that it starts indicates to me that the Cold Start Injector (CSI) was working, and since it continues to run (although with manual assistance), made it seem that the four main injectors were functioning. It was as if the 'choke' function of the fuel injection system was not functioning correctly, but what had changed since last evening?

Between my wife's '76 Super Beetle convertible, and my Alfa, I feel that I have a pretty good understanding of how Bosch L-Jetronic systems work. I felt like the Grinch staring down at Whoville when the singing starts. I puzzled and puzzed; how can this be?

And then it hit me.

The Alfa has been sitting in the driveway with the hood off. We've had hot, sunny days...and the temperature was already over 90F outside. I took my IR thermometer, and measured the temperature of various parts of the engine. The AAV read 127F; the area around the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) and Thermo Time Switch (TTS) read 123F and 125F respectively.

I theorized that the thermal action of the sun shining directly on these engine components, had heated them to the point where they were sending signals to the ECU, indicating a warmed-up engine. Of course the engine core itself was not that hot, and would require 'cold start' functions in order to idle correctly.

I made a test of my theory last night. After working late, I got home about 10:30pm, outside air temp was still about 84F (I didn't think to take a temp reading of the engine with the IR thermometer). The engine started right up, and although not idling as smooth as normal, sustained the idle. This morning, after having set overnight, it started and idled perfectly.

It would appear that vigorous solar soaking of particular FI components led to less than optimal operation. (I should mention that I verified proper AAV operation during Sunday's troubleshooting alternately using a hair-dryer and deep freeze.)

It is certainly possible that there is an actual heat-related failure in one of the components. I am going to once again defer to Occam's Razor, and go with 'too much sunshine' as the cause. I covered the engine today while I'm at work, so I'll test my theory again this afternoon.

I'm hoping that my experience will save someone else some butt-pain later on.
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-Kevin
1988 Spider Veloce (with lots of 3D printed parts)
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post #510 of 572 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 11:02 AM
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It's quite probable your idle air bypass is set too low, and with the warmed-up AAV closed there just isn't enough bypass air to keep it idling smoothly. Get the car fully warmed up and then adjust the nut on the idle adjustment hose (17mm nut with a 19mm lock nut) to set the idle to 950-1000 RPM.

- Don't trust the dash tach: I would strongly suggest using a digital tachometer
- If you unscrew the nut and can't get the idle up to 950 RPM you need a new idle bypass o-ring

Also a good idea to check that your throttle position switch (TPS) is adjusted properly for idle, and check that it's working with a digital voltmeter.

Some more details here: L-jetronic Fuel Injection Technical Troubleshooting Article
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Tom

1963 Giulia Spider (1750 engine)
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