Non-starting '89 Spider - ignition switch? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 10:27 PM
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Two simple test to do. First plug everything back up. Turn the key to the run position. If the alternator light comes on. Turn the key to the start position will watching the alternator light. If the light dims its the starter thats bad or the relay or wiring for it that was put in. If the light doesn't dim then its the switch.

Also you need to pull or wiggle the 2 or 3 main (big) red wires going to the fusebox. One of these are the typical ones that giving problems with the fusebox.

These are the simple teat I have used for decades to diagnose for a bad switch. But with all the wiring behind the fusebox thats been messed with it might come down to having to trace some wires.

Also put a 16 amp fuse in the pump fuse holder. Even though Alfa said to use an 8 amp fuse for the pump circuit. An 8 amp fuse is really under rated for it.

1969 1750 Spider Veloce w/dual webers, 1969 1750 Berlina, 1971 1750 Spider Veloce w/ dual webers, 1985 Spider Veloce 23,000 orig. miles, {Two} 1986 Spider Veloces, 1987 Spider Veloce bought new, 1988 Quadrifoglio, 1991 164S, Plus several more. I think they are breeding.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by sgweiner View Post
Red is live, gives 12+volts. When I connect to brown, it drops to 0.
Classic example of a circuit with very high resistance; normal no-load volts, zero loaded volts.
Originally Posted by Jim G View Post
Also you need to pull or wiggle the 2 or 3 main (big) red wires going to the fusebox.
Of the five big red wires on the fusebox (top right as viewed from the rear, the two larger 4.0mm wires feed power to the fusebox bussbar from the junction block on the left inner fender. Since the headlights work, these wires and connections would appear to be okay. Of the other three 2.5mm red wires, one then feeds the headlight switch, another feeds the ignition switch and the third feeds the horn relay (does the horn work?).
A simple test would be to touch the brown wire (now yellow) to the top of fuse 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5. Do the gauges/dash lights come to life?


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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Just a quick thank you and follow-up for everyone...

The problem was at the fuse box. One of the relays had a bunch of wires that were shoddily put together and I think 2 or 3 of them were touching, which caused a short (breaking fuse at the VVT and CPU) and then wouldn't allow anything from fuse 6 and higher to work.

We disassembled all of the fuse box wires, cleaned/soldiered what needed to be done, and then put it all back together and it's all working perfectly again.

The wiring diagrams were AMAZING - very helpful.

Until the next time...
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