Uneven wear on rear pads. - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2017, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down Uneven wear on rear pads.

On both sides, the outer pad exhibits very little wear. On the right side, the inner pad was down to bare metal. The piston must be seized on the outside is the calipers?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2017, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
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On both sides, the outer pad exhibits very little wear. The piston must be seized on the outside
Yes, that would be my guess

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On the right side, the inner pad was down to bare metal.
It's puzzling that the the inner pad only wore down to bare metal on one side. I wonder if the disk was rougher on that side? Either way, that side of that disk is rough now. You should resurface both disks and rebuild/replace both calipers.

I have read here on the BB that new/replacement calipers are available from places like Rock Auto for not much more than the cost of rebuild kits. If you have seized pistons, paying a few bucks more for new calipers would be worth it to avoid having to free up the stuck parts.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2017, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfajay View Post
Yes, that would be my guess



It's puzzling that the the inner pad only wore down to bare metal on one side. I wonder if the disk was rougher on that side? Either way, that side of that disk is rough now. You should resurface both disks and rebuild/replace both calipers.

I have read here on the BB that new/replacement calipers are available from places like Rock Auto for not much more than the cost of rebuild kits. If you have seized pistons, paying a few bucks more for new calipers would be worth it to avoid having to free up the stuck parts.
I have new rotors and pads on the way, from Rock Auto. Will evaluate the calipers.

John

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1972 Mercedes 280SE, got in straight swap for the Discovery
1996 Land Rover Discovery
1986 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-23-2017, 06:42 PM
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I would say that the inner piston is probably sticking as its not releasing correctly. Also replace your rubber flex hoses to the brakes. If you haven't already.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 07:17 AM
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I have new rotors and pads on the way,
Glad you went new...cutting rotors is never a good idea.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 02:05 PM
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Glad you went new...cutting rotors is never a good idea.
I've actually never refinished any rotors. Production pads wear first, but I almost always need to replace the rotors every three pad sets. I recently added some ceramic pads, with slotted/drilled rotors, and the pads wear slower than the stock ones, so I expect to replace both pad and rotor every time. Front sets replaced at least twice as often as rears on virtually every car I have owned.

This has applied to all the ATE brakes I've had, including a few big Mercedes cars, and couple of Porches.

BTW - drilled and or slotted rotors are not really needed on these cars. I raced Alfas "back-in-the-day" on stock rotors. The slots make a kinda loud humming noise, and the drilling is mostly cosmetic. I made the change because of a harder steel on the rotors that matches the ceramic pads. Would have been happy without the drilling at all. Probably no slots either, as I don't race much more than an occasional autocross now.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 02:17 PM
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I've actually never refinished any rotors. Production pads wear first, but I almost always need to replace the rotors every three pad sets. I recently added some ceramic pads, with slotted/drilled rotors, and the pads wear slower than the stock ones, so I expect to replace both pad and rotor every time. Front sets replaced at least twice as often as rears on virtually every car I have owned.

This has applied to all the ATE brakes I've had, including a few big Mercedes cars, and couple of Porches.

BTW - drilled and or slotted rotors are not really needed on these cars. I raced Alfas "back-in-the-day" on stock rotors. The slots make a kinda loud humming noise, and the drilling is mostly cosmetic. I made the change because of a harder steel on the rotors that matches the ceramic pads. Would have been happy without the drilling at all. Probably no slots either, as I don't race much more than an occasional autocross now.

Robert
Yeah, if you are looking for an increase in braking performance, rotors are not the place to look (unless you are also replacing calipers and moving to vented rotors). For cars running regular N/A 2 liter motors, pads & fluids are the only things that need to be upgraded for track use.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 02:40 PM
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NO GREASE!! I prep my brakes. Usually grind top, bottom, and front corners of the new pad to get rid of the paint, grease the back top, bottom and front sides.
Use this technique on my 116's as well. I drive some in the winter. This is the way I do it. Never had a problem. Way to go!
They were jammed.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-25-2017, 04:55 AM Thread Starter
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Managed to pound enough to free the rotors this morning. Will be ready when the shipment arrives today. But I will need to work the calipers to evaluate the travel of the pistons. My current plan is to get things stopping again so I get back on the road for the rest of the season, then send both calipers out for a full restoration over the winter.

John

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other current members of the fleet

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2007 Toyota Corolla

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1972 Mercedes 280SE, got in straight swap for the Discovery
1996 Land Rover Discovery
1986 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon
1962 VW Bug - 6 volt
1974 Triumph Spitfire - wobbly driveshaft kept destroying stuff
1972 Triumph Spitfire - got totaled while parked at DMV

some others that were less interesting
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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The Spider is back on the road today. I was not able to get my old calipers to work enough to back the pistons in with new pads to fit on my new rotors. So I bought two calipers from RockAuto. Got that shipment yesterday and had the brakes completely together last night.

Car was still on jack stands - so this morning I did the initial bleed of the new calipers and got the car back to normal jacks - mounted the tires and put it on the pavement.

Just took my first ride to fill up with fuel - and hit 64,000 miles on the way to the filling station. Pedal is a bit soft, but brakes work.

With the calipers dragging, I still managed to get 29.77 miles per gallon on my last tank of fuel. We filled in Vermont after crossing over from Quebec. From there to home was 260 miles.

John

John R
So. NH, USA --'87 Spider Veloce
See you along the road - member of AROC/AONE

other current members of the fleet

2017 VW Jetta Tsi
2006 Subaru Outback - almost a driveway requirement in VT & NH
2007 Toyota Corolla

previous
2009 VW Jett TDi (Deer took this one out)
1984 Mercedes 300TDT wagon, rust took that one
1972 Mercedes 280SE, got in straight swap for the Discovery
1996 Land Rover Discovery
1986 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon
1962 VW Bug - 6 volt
1974 Triumph Spitfire - wobbly driveshaft kept destroying stuff
1972 Triumph Spitfire - got totaled while parked at DMV

some others that were less interesting
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