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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Weird Electrical Issue - Flashing high Coolant temp + low brake lights

Recently while driving I started experiencing an issue where the voltage meter on the dash starts dancing and the high temp and low brake fluid lights flicker and come on (Video below). There will be days that it will not happen. Luckily it happen right as I was pulling in to the garage so I was able to pull out my multimeter and verified it was not the alternator (not sure about this anymore). Seems to me that it is something with the pod itself or the fusebox. Unfortunately, it magically stopped as I was going to check the fuse panel with the multimeter.

Has anyone seen this issue before? Any ideas where to start looking?

Any help would be appreciated

Things I have done:
  • Verified electrical connections under the dash (removed the fuse box and pushing everything in. Checked for lose connections)
  • Checked the main ground driver side
  • checked the mono pod connections (reseated)
  • Turned some accessories on and off to see if current draw would cause it.
[EDIT]
Also noticed my radio restarted today. That is new. Starting to think it is the alternator. Voltage is not dropping bc the battery is making up the difference? Not enough amperage to run the computer when the alternator cuts out so it restarts like when the engine is first started?
In the video I noticed that the alternator light comes on faintly and flickers. If you look closely you can see it.

Here is a vid of the issue. Multimeter in the background at alternator junction.

Last edited by phillipah; 08-04-2016 at 05:53 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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I had the car shut off on me yesterday while driving. I think this was just a symptom of the alternator going bad. I am going to have it replaced and report back.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 03:53 PM
But Mad North-Northwest
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Those two lights come on at startup, so you're losing switched electrical power. Could be a bunch of things, but a bad ignition switch will cause this, as will loose connections at the battery, starter, junction box in the left side of the engine bay, or fusebox.

Usually if your alternator's bad the symptom is a dead battery. If it shut off while you were driving but then you were able to start it up again right away, alternator isn't the first thing I'd suspect.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Weird Electrical Issue - Flashing high Coolant temp + low brake lights

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Originally Posted by Gubi View Post
Those two lights come on at startup, so you're losing switched electrical power. Could be a bunch of things, but a bad ignition switch will cause this, as will loose connections at the battery, starter, junction box in the left side of the engine bay, or fusebox.

Usually if your alternator's bad the symptom is a dead battery. If it shut off while you were driving but then you were able to start it up again right away, alternator isn't the first thing I'd suspect.

Yes I was able to start the car again. The battery does not seem to drain much at all. I don't suspect it is the starter since it is out of the picture while the car is running.

The ignition switch is more likely I think since the car lost power.

Would a bad ignition switch cause the alternator light to come on and cause the volt meter to go crazy?

Last edited by phillipah; 08-05-2016 at 06:32 PM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 07:58 PM
But Mad North-Northwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipah View Post
Would a bad ignition switch cause the alternator light to come on and cause the volt meter to go crazy?
It could, yes.

I mention the starter because that's where the +12 feed from the battery connects to the rest of the system.

Tom

1963 Giulia Spider (1750 engine)
1974 GTV
1991 Spider
Former: 1987 Milano Gold
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gubi View Post
It could, yes.

I mention the starter because that's where the +12 feed from the battery connects to the rest of the system.
After checking the electrical diagrams it makes sense that the voltage gauge is affected since its connected to the ignition switch circuit.

I have attached my meter to fuse 7. Tomorrow I will drive it and see if the issue happens and see if I lose power to that circuit.

Based of what I can tell if I lose power then the switch could be bad. Does anyone have any other method of validating the switch itself? My issue is it is intermittent so I have to leave things connected and drive around.
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Last edited by phillipah; 08-06-2016 at 07:58 AM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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So after a lot of patience... I think it I have it solved. There were 2 issues.

First, the exciter wire for the alternator was crushed. It was barely holding on. Replaced that wire and the alternator seemed solid.

After the alternator issue was fixed all seemed fine until the car would just turn off randomly and usually shorty after a start. It even died while going down the road (not fun).

Finally, The ignition switch just gave up the ghost entirely. The way it failed was that when it was in the "on" position nothing would happen but if you try to crank over the engine it would attempt to start. Given that no contact was being made in "on" nothing would really happen.

I installed a new ignition and things seem to be working fine. I will give it a few weeks and then my next steps will be to install 2 relay circuits. One will be for the starter and the other will be for the "On/AAC" position. That way all the load can be taken off the ignition switch itself.

I have seen posts for the starter but not for the Ignition power. Has anyone done a relay for the Ignition power circuit?
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