Best source for Koni reds - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2006, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Best source for Koni reds

What is the best source for koni reds. Do these work well with IAP springs
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2006, 10:00 PM
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Why do you want Koni Reds? The IAP springs are too stiff for the Reds. I used the Koni Reds and changed to Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks...Much better.. From the posts on the BB, it seems the Koni Yellows are better suited to the IAP sport springs if you want Konis. The Reds are better suited to a stock spring. Just my opinion, having tried the Koni Reds and Bilsteins with the IAP springs. Suspensions can be a very personal thing it seems, based on what you expect of your car... Do you want a touring convertible or a sports car?

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-30-2006, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
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The car is a 1977 and the shocks and springs are all need to be replaced. I would like the car to handle much better. I really dont have a base line for these cars. I do know the suspension is in bad shape. I would like the car to be a sport touring kind of car I dont want to autocross.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-30-2006, 10:15 AM
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If your suspension is original, I would recomend replacing all the bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc to get back to a new sotck setup first. once that is completed you can determine what type of springs and shocks to buy. You may find that after getting the ride back to stock that a sportier (stiffer) ride may not be what you want. If a nice touring ride is your goal, a new set of stock springs and shocks would work best and would saveyou some money too.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-30-2006, 12:34 PM
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If you want a more track-like handling precision, or a balanced autocross car without being a filling rattler do this:

IAP or Centerline front springs with Koni Yellows on middle firmness or softer with a slightly larger front roll bar (find an old Shankle if you can). Poly bushing on the outer end of the upper caster rod, leave the others alone; replace with stock if needed. Check and replace the ball joints and tie rod ends - I added grease fittings to mine while I was at it. Add adjustable upper control arms.

For a little more softness, use stock front springs cut a half turn (US cars came with tall springs because of bumper height rules). Adjust ride height with spacers. Low is better for handling and worse for ground collisions. Add an oil pan guard.

Add a chassis stiffener if it's a spider.

Stock rear spings are fine. Cut half a turn if the ride height is too high (most replacement front springs are shorter than stock; replacement rears are often too stiff) and then adjust with spacers. Do not have the rear higher than the front. Koni reds at the rear on full soft. Use fresh but stock bushings on the front (body end) of the trailing arms, stock or a soft poly on the rear (axle) end, with a firm poly bush on the upper t-bar, and firm poly end spacers too. Use a stock rear sway bar, or a moderate replacement with adjustable length ends if you can find one.

If you want to be picky, get a set of 1600 or 1750 (early) trailing arms with small front bushing; use the stock small diameter bushing there too.

Poly bushings on the sway bars are fine.

Max Bank at Alfaholics in UK has some great suspension bits if you have a great wallet.

Carefully align the suspension with max caster and neg 1 1/2 to 3 degrees camber, steering wheel centered, both outer track rods exactly the same length. Check front - rear track. Slight toe out (2-3 mm).

For street, adjust F/R balance with sway bars to get slight understeer. For X cross adjust for as much oversteer as you can drive without spinning (this is a test of driver skill!) or bashing cones.

Get a good set of soft-to-moderate performance brake pads, not stock. Flush and replace brake fluid. Adjust rear handbrake shoes and grease and adjust front wheel bearings. Flush and replace the clutch fluid just like the brakes. Test carefully as brake seals and MC's often go hard after fresh fluid is used.

Grease the u-joints on the drive shaft and replace rubber donut if any cracks. Oh heck, replace it anyway. Grease the end of the prop shaft where the 'olive' ball end of the transmission output shaft fits into the drive shaft bushing, and grease the sliding splines too.

Get a set of light weight (racing) panasports or equivalent in 14 by 6 or 7 with the CORRECT offsets (front and rear offset can differ for some cars and tires to give good clearance) and a great set of tires in 195/60-14 to 205/60-14 (lots of threads on this subject).

While you have it all apart, have all the suspension bits bead blasted and powder coated. Any color is fine with me.

Get a set of Outlaw four-pot front brakes and a Tilton adjustable rear brake limiter if you want to go over-the-top; even a set of Outlaw rears too. Slotted discs are good, drilled are cute but meaningless. They'll have lots of choices for pads.

After that, see Murray's thread on his black spider for how far over-the-top you can go. Negotiate with your banker or (soon-to-be-) ex.

That ought to just thrill you!

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