If you want a more track-like handling precision, or a balanced autocross car without being a filling rattler do this:
IAP or Centerline front springs with Koni Yellows on middle firmness or softer with a slightly larger front roll bar (find an old Shankle if you can). Poly bushing on the outer end of the upper caster rod, leave the others alone; replace with stock if needed. Check and replace the ball joints and tie rod ends - I added grease fittings to mine while I was at it. Add adjustable upper control arms.
For a little more softness, use stock front springs cut a half turn (US cars came with tall springs because of bumper height rules). Adjust ride height with spacers. Low is better for handling and worse for ground collisions. Add an oil pan guard.
Add a chassis stiffener if it's a spider.
Stock rear spings are fine. Cut half a turn if the ride height is too high (most replacement front springs are shorter than stock; replacement rears are often too stiff) and then adjust with spacers. Do not have the rear higher than the front. Koni reds at the rear on full soft. Use fresh but stock bushings on the front (body end) of the trailing arms, stock or a soft poly on the rear (axle) end, with a firm poly bush on the upper t-bar, and firm poly end spacers too. Use a stock rear sway bar, or a moderate replacement with adjustable length ends if you can find one.
If you want to be picky, get a set of 1600 or 1750 (early) trailing arms with small front bushing; use the stock small diameter bushing there too.
Poly bushings on the sway bars are fine.
Max Bank at Alfaholics in UK has some great suspension bits if you have a great wallet.
Carefully align the suspension with max caster and neg 1 1/2 to 3 degrees camber, steering wheel centered, both outer track rods exactly the same length. Check front - rear track. Slight toe out (2-3 mm).
For street, adjust F/R balance with sway bars to get slight understeer. For X cross adjust for as much oversteer as you can drive without spinning (this is a test of driver skill!) or bashing cones.
Get a good set of soft-to-moderate performance brake pads, not stock. Flush and replace brake fluid. Adjust rear handbrake shoes and grease and adjust front wheel bearings. Flush and replace the clutch fluid just like the brakes. Test carefully as brake seals and MC's often go hard after fresh fluid is used.
Grease the u-joints on the drive shaft and replace rubber donut if any cracks. Oh heck, replace it anyway. Grease the end of the prop shaft where the 'olive' ball end of the transmission output shaft fits into the drive shaft bushing, and grease the sliding splines too.
Get a set of light weight (racing) panasports or equivalent in 14 by 6 or 7 with the CORRECT offsets (front and rear offset can differ for some cars and tires to give good clearance) and a great set of tires in 195/60-14 to 205/60-14 (lots of threads on this subject).
While you have it all apart, have all the suspension bits bead blasted and powder coated. Any color is fine with me.
Get a set of Outlaw four-pot front brakes and a Tilton adjustable rear brake limiter if you want to go over-the-top; even a set of Outlaw rears too. Slotted discs are good, drilled are cute but meaningless. They'll have lots of choices for pads.
After that, see Murray's thread on his black spider for how far over-the-top you can go. Negotiate with your banker or (soon-to-be-) ex.
That ought to just thrill you!