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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-15-2006, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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VVT mounting

Trying to figure out why the VVT is mounted with rubber? Anyone know if I make a brass bushing will it cause heat transfer (limit the life of the solenoid)or electrical problems? I really can't believe the thin rubber mounting provided much and wonder what the engineers reasoning was when they designed the mount. Maybe limited life for the component? The aluminum holder could have been cast with enough meat that it could have been threaded to the M27X1 thread...

As I told John M in another thread- I tried to adjust mine during a distributor cap/rotor change, it disintegrated into a mushy, oily mixture and I'm left without the VVT. I've been riding my bicycle to work and we're getting record amounts of rainfall here in Albuquerque.

I did learn that the car will run OK without the VVT, but there is definitely not as much pull when I floor it, which is how I drive 95% of the time...

Any advice is appreciated as I begin setting up to make a brass threaded bushing.

Duke
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-15-2006, 01:00 PM
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If you want pull and dont mind a lumpy idle, you can remove the shot VVT mount and cobble some means of keeping the pin that goes through the cam cover pressed in, (not a lot of pressure though), which in turn will fool the cam end of things into advancing like the VVT is there and on.




Darren
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-15-2006, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Tifosi-

Thanks for the reply. I can machine a brass bushing with the correct M27X1 threaded internally so that I can screw and adjust the VVT solenoid into the holder as it should be.

My question is if anyone knows if doing this would cause too much heat on the solenoid causing it to fail? I don't think the original rubber mounting provided that much insulation- if at all.

I think I'll just have to try it and see what happens...
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-15-2006, 02:20 PM
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-15-2006, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke58
My question is if anyone knows if doing this would cause too much heat on the solenoid causing it to fail?
For myself, I'm more of the mind that it's to dampen the engine vibration so the internal windings or contacts in the solinoid don't break down.

If not vibration but an actual heat issue, (does anyone know for sure as I'm curious also), you might get away with the solid mount and mabe a small 'scoop' mounted on 1-2 of the water pump studs so as to direct a bit of the fan airflow up toward it. (though it's vable it already does that now as the front of the engine is pretty flat and that air has to dissipate in some direction or another)




Darren
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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John M-

I made two. Send me a PM and I'll mail it to you.

Duke
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