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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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!989 Spider Graduate Stuck Head

I have tried the rope trick The dang thing just doesn't want to come out HELP
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 11:54 AM
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you'll need a head pulling tool, I built and used one successfully, will post pix later, where are you?

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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TX You? I can't wait to see it I hate being this stuck and no idea where to turn
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 03:01 PM
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here is the tool:

1) screw threaded rods with sparkplug ends into sparkplug holes, remove nuts and washers from threaded rods.

2) slide metal plate with holes on to rods, plate now sits on head studs, with threaded rods sticking up through holes.

3) drop washers on each threaded rod and screw nuts by hand down.

4) using wrench tighten nuts one to two turns max at time so you all tightening evenly, what happens is the head starts to raise against the plate, this will work until the top of the head rises to the top of the studs(bottom of the plate sitting on the studs). always star with two and three first.

5) undo the whole business lifting the plate high enough to take the four shorter bolts pictured placing then vertically between the plate and the studs (using studs # 3&4 and 7&8

6) repeat the process with the nuts and washers turn one to two turn at a time evenly on nuts, this raises the head farther up until you reach the top of the bolts.

7) the studs are long, the head thick repeat the process using the four longest bolts.

8) it takes several hours but it works.

ONE MORE THING, YOU DID REMOVE THE TWO BOLTS AT THE FRONT OF THE HEAD THAT
COME UP FROM THE FRONT COVER INTO THE HEAD?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-07-2013, 11:55 AM
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The head is probably stuck on the studs due to corrosion,look at my thread and see if the photo's there give you some inspiration.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...questions.html

good luck,

Frans
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
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YA we got it out now to figure out why it wont start..Find all the electrical gremlins . I think maybe the hubs picked a hard one to get started with LOL
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 02:59 AM
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Rope trick on my 77 spider

I got my head off using the rope trick in order to replace a leaky head gasket. Initially it didn't work, until I realized that I was feeding too much rope into the cylinders. You need to put just enough rope into the cylinders to get the piston almost to top dead center.This is where max leverage occurs.
Roll the car in 5th gear against the rope, you may need help to apply enough force. Alternate the rope between cylinders.
I soaked the studs with a 50-50 mix of atf and acetone for a week before the rope trick. After getting the head off it was apparent that it only penetrated down about 1/2 inch. the worst corrosion was on the studs around the number 3 cylinder.
The bad news is that the liners also came up disturbing the seal at the bottom.
I've pulled the liners and am attempting to do the job from the top as described in our technical tips. (Might as well do the rings as well.) I will give this a try from the top since I don't relish the idea of pulling the engine again. The car is sitting under my engine hoist if things get that bad.
By the way, the piston pins are a interference fit with the pistons. I had to make a puller from 1/4-20 rod to get them out. a little heat on the piston also helps.
I'm almost ready to put whole thing back together and am currently making something to get the piston pins back in. (I'm thinking of 1/4-20 rod again.)
I've removed the lower oil pan so the option of modifying the reassembly procedure exists. Maybe the sequence will be cylinders 4,3,2 in that order, then #1 dropped in complete with connecting rod. This eliminates the hose clamp routine.

Bob
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaonealfa View Post
I got my head off using the rope trick in order to replace a leaky head gasket. Initially it didn't work, until I realized that I was feeding too much rope into the cylinders. You need to put just enough rope into the cylinders to get the piston almost to top dead center.This is where max leverage occurs.
Roll the car in 5th gear against the rope, you may need help to apply enough force. Alternate the rope between cylinders.
I soaked the studs with a 50-50 mix of atf and acetone for a week before the rope trick. After getting the head off it was apparent that it only penetrated down about 1/2 inch. the worst corrosion was on the studs around the number 3 cylinder.
The bad news is that the liners also came up disturbing the seal at the bottom.
I've pulled the liners and am attempting to do the job from the top as described in our technical tips. (Might as well do the rings as well.) I will give this a try from the top since I don't relish the idea of pulling the engine again. The car is sitting under my engine hoist if things get that bad.
By the way, the piston pins are a interference fit with the pistons. I had to make a puller from 1/4-20 rod to get them out. a little heat on the piston also helps.
I'm almost ready to put whole thing back together and am currently making something to get the piston pins back in. (I'm thinking of 1/4-20 rod again.)
I've removed the lower oil pan so the option of modifying the reassembly procedure exists. Maybe the sequence will be cylinders 4,3,2 in that order, then #1 dropped in complete with connecting rod. This eliminates the hose clamp routine.

Bob

fyi... there is a marine product called " corrosion X " it makes every other penetrating oil and concoction look like water. they make two versions... a red can that loosens and penetrates down to the center of the earth and a green can that you can spay on stuff and it will just sit there forever and whatever is underneith won't rust or corrode...

available online everywhere...
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