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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1980alfa View Post
I have a 1980 alfa and this originally was the same setup as mine. Which is SPICA however this gentleman got rid of the pump, plenum etc and did a carb conversion. This is something i'd like to do to mine but the kits are $1000.00 plus. This car comes with the Carbs I want and the top I need. Looks like very little to get this one running! Too bad funds dont allow seems like a great deal.
As other have said, there are no carbs in this picture. There is a Shankle Quadraflow, some rubber hoses, and then the Spica intake manifold. No carbs, unless the seller has some in a box somewhere.

This car isn't far from me, but I have no room and no time..

bs
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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 10:09 AM
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Sold. It has Spica injection with K&N filters. No carbs with it. Some new parts and spares. New top and car cover. I'm picking it up on Tuesday.

1959 Giulietta Spider 750 (gone, but not forgotten), 1959 Giulietta Spider 750 (race car), 1959 Giulietta Spider 101
1967 Duetto
1971 Spider, 1978 Spider Veloce (gone), 1981 Spider Veloce
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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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Sorry for the novice mistake, I didn't realize that you could place K&N filters on the 1980 model due to the large plenum setup. When I took a closer look I now also see the differences. First alpha ever and am still getting used to the different setups possible for my year.

As for wanting to switch to Carbs I was mainly interested since it seems like a simpler setup for a novice such as myself. I cant seem to get the car running right and I believe it has something to do with the SPICA setup not being configured correctly. At first I thought the issue was ignition related but i've replaced most all of the components involved and it still runs pretty rough at idle.

When I first start the car it fires right up but then idles like crap. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and replaced the dual pickup with a new single pickup. Still no luck although it's a little better. One thing I noticed is the fuel pressure warning light does not appear to work since its never on even when I first turn the key. If anyone has a direction you can point me in i'm all ears. This whole car is new to me as you can see by my Carb comments above. Thanks for the patience during my large learning curve.
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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 12:54 PM
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1980alfa--The thing with Spica is either to find a competent mechanic who knows it (this is what I did) or learn how to set it up yourself. Once you go through the precise setup procedures, it should hum along without a problem.
good overview and troubleshooting info on this sticky:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/carb...cted-alfa.html
One of the most common problems is the pump, and the following website is run by the world expert on rebuilding them. He also has great tech info and a book:
www.wesingram.com

Spider73: I never liked the K&N's my car came with (especially the sound, which for some reason on my car sounded like a very loud and very wounded duck). I've been very happy after going back to a stock airbox, though now I'm looking for an early-70s box since my smog pump is long gone.

Dan
78 Spider Veloce

Former "vintage" cars: 74 Fiat 124 Spider (first car); 70 Volvo 164 ("the tank"); 74 Datsun 260Z (only started on fire once); 80 Honda Civic wagon; 89 Saab 900; 71 MGB ('Blue B')
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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 01:50 PM
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Yes going with the OEM box adds power. if you look in the box it has tuned runners.
and it also keeps cool air going into it. so for a stock or mostly stock motor the box is the best. for a big moded motor I think still using the OEM box would be best but shorten and open up the runners to the specs of say a race motor where you move the power band up in the RPM range.

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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1980alfa View Post
Sorry for the novice mistake, I didn't realize that you could place K&N filters on the 1980 model due to the large plenum setup. When I took a closer look I now also see the differences. First alpha ever and am still getting used to the different setups possible for my year.

As for wanting to switch to Carbs I was mainly interested since it seems like a simpler setup for a novice such as myself. I cant seem to get the car running right and I believe it has something to do with the SPICA setup not being configured correctly. At first I thought the issue was ignition related but i've replaced most all of the components involved and it still runs pretty rough at idle.

When I first start the car it fires right up but then idles like crap. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and replaced the dual pickup with a new single pickup. Still no luck although it's a little better. One thing I noticed is the fuel pressure warning light does not appear to work since its never on even when I first turn the key. If anyone has a direction you can point me in i'm all ears. This whole car is new to me as you can see by my Carb comments above. Thanks for the patience during my large learning curve.
Hi again.
Does the car idle poorly after it warms up? Or always? I am going to ask just to get it out of the way, but are all the fuel filters new? What items have you "replaced" on the Spica unit already and why? Does the car run fine after idle? Good power, quick acceleration etc?
Was just up in Randolph today..... Off High street!

Peter L. Carver, MA
Spiders, spiders everywhere...
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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-12-2009, 06:00 PM
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Man this sure looks like the K&N configuration on my '79. Mine is most definitely Spica. I've thought about ripping out the K&N setup and replacing it with the air box out of the '73. You really think it will add a bit of power?

Drew
There is no question that the OEM air box has a better design, and in controlled tests it has been proven to produce more power...

Best regards,

Enrique
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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-13-2009, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hi Peter,
The car does idle poorly after its warm. It actually continually idles and accelerates poorly. I guess a little history on the car may help. I purchased this car about a month ago prior to me buying it it sat for approximately five years according to the PO but I have a feeling it was longer than that from what ive found since. Mechanically i've removed the tank and drained the old gas which was half shellac! As you can imagine the in tank pump was toast from sitting in that so I replaced that prior to reinstalling the tank. I ran new fuel lines and also replaced both fuel filters. I removed the main pump and cleaned it with gas and was able to get it going again as it was frozen from sitting so long. It now kicks on and seems to be putting out plenty of pressure. As for the pump itself I havent actually changed anything on it. Mostly since I believed the problem was ignition/timing related until recently. I replaced all the wires, plugs rotor cap as well as the feed line and pickup to the distributor. The car starts right up but seems to me like its running rich. The plugs get fouled up pretty quick. It may also be worth noting the fuel pressure light never comes on even on start up which I need to investigate some more. When I hit the gas it runs as if its missing almost or choking out with hesitation and rough idle. I confirmed I have spark on all cylinders so now i'm in uncharted mechanical fuel pump territory and am a little over my head I feel.

Thats funny that you were in Randolph. Small world! It's good to know that there are other alpha owners so close by. If I ever get this thing sorted maybe i'll see you on the road one of these days. Thanks for the help!
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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-13-2009, 06:57 PM
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O.K. there are a couple of things that you need to do. First go to Wes Ingram's web site http://www.wesingram.com/ and order his booklet. It is well worth the money. Read it several times so that you understand the inerworkings of the Spica system. It is an incredable system that once tuned properly will prove to be very reliable. Follow all of the steps in order though to tune your Spica.

The other thing is you will need a properly working Thermostatic Actuator (T/A). It is an automatic choke. Remove it and test it to see if it is functioning properly. Be careful of the studs that secure it to the block. They can be fragile and are a pain to replace if you snap them. Don't ask me why I know this. I believe that Wes has the instructions for testing the T/A on his site. If you find that yours is bad they come up on the Buy & Sell board from time to time or Wes sells rebuilt ones on his site. A properly functioning T/A is crucial here. It controls your mixture.

Good luck. The rush is great when you get the Spica working properly. Post your questions here as you go through the process. We're here to help.

Drew
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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-13-2009, 07:42 PM
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You will want to replace the SPICA pump oil filter ASAP. The oil supplied to the pump does not pass through the engine oil filter and instead is filtered in the pump itself. The pump can be (will be?) damaged if the pump's oil filter is neglected. Wes has these filters as does other suppliers (Centerline etc). You might as well purchase a new gasket for the oil filter cover when ordering.

Personally, SPICA is very desireable. If you can find your way past this bump, you should enjoy its driveability, reliability, and economy as well.
Good luck.

'73 GTV - '78 Alfetta Sprint Veloce - '88 Milano Verde
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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-13-2009, 08:04 PM
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O.K. there are a couple of things that you need to do. First
... spell it with an F ...



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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 04:08 PM
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Just to take the thread back for a minute, we got the car running today. Both fuel pumps were frozen, but Gumout and patience got both of them running again. We replaced all the filters, flushed out the fuel system, and started it up. It runs just fine, although the induction system is a little noisy. Maybe someday look for an original air box. The paint is terrible, but for now it seems to be a solid, if concours challenged, cruiser.

1959 Giulietta Spider 750 (gone, but not forgotten), 1959 Giulietta Spider 750 (race car), 1959 Giulietta Spider 101
1967 Duetto
1971 Spider, 1978 Spider Veloce (gone), 1981 Spider Veloce
1986 Graduate, 1986 Spider Veloce (parts car)
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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1980alfa View Post
Hi Peter,
The car does idle poorly after its warm. It actually continually idles and accelerates poorly. I guess a little history on the car may help. I purchased this car about a month ago prior to me buying it it sat for approximately five years according to the PO but I have a feeling it was longer than that from what ive found since. Mechanically i've removed the tank and drained the old gas which was half shellac! As you can imagine the in tank pump was toast from sitting in that so I replaced that prior to reinstalling the tank. I ran new fuel lines and also replaced both fuel filters. I removed the main pump and cleaned it with gas and was able to get it going again as it was frozen from sitting so long. It now kicks on and seems to be putting out plenty of pressure. As for the pump itself I havent actually changed anything on it. Mostly since I believed the problem was ignition/timing related until recently. I replaced all the wires, plugs rotor cap as well as the feed line and pickup to the distributor. The car starts right up but seems to me like its running rich. The plugs get fouled up pretty quick. It may also be worth noting the fuel pressure light never comes on even on start up which I need to investigate some more. When I hit the gas it runs as if its missing almost or choking out with hesitation and rough idle. I confirmed I have spark on all cylinders so now i'm in uncharted mechanical fuel pump territory and am a little over my head I feel.

Thats funny that you were in Randolph. Small world! It's good to know that there are other alpha owners so close by. If I ever get this thing sorted maybe i'll see you on the road one of these days. Thanks for the help!
I agree to look into the Spica tuning guide that Wes Ingram has on his site. Very helpful, and written so that most people can understand it. If you do go to the guide for assistance, FOLLOW IT IN ORDER, as it is important. The first thing I would look at is to see if the Thermostatic Actuator (TA for short) is working. The SPica main pump, when warm, should show a very small gap between the stop and the moving pivot. This is on the rear of the pump where the throttle linkage attaches. The gap when warm should be quite small, but if the TA has/ had failed the previous owner or his mechanic might have tweaked the mixture to get the car started in the cold... THis however will foul your plugs fairly quickly. I assume the plugs are pretty black and sooty when you say they foul quick. Not just wet with fuel which could be a weak spark. As previously suggested, if you can get the car back to a baseline it will help in your diagnostics immensely. If you even fit the car with a dummy TA (do a quick search) it will bypass a lot of diagnostics.....
Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask any questions, as I had a 79 with EVERYTHING wrong that could be... and I got her running! She has a broken compensator link spring, a bad TA a bad ignition switch, an bad in-tank pump a clogged return line, a bad distributor and a poor owner.... She runs, and she behaves finally....

Peter L. Carver, MA
Spiders, spiders everywhere...
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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 06:03 PM
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We replaced all the filters, flushed out the fuel system, and started it up.
Who is this 'we' of whom you speak? I heard he has great name but doesn't sort out his wrenches by inches & metrics...

Quote:
The paint is terrible, but for now it seems to be a solid, if concours challenged, cruiser.
Pictures? We have a rule about pictures, you know. (We're in favor of them...)

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- -~ 1981 GTV-6 ~
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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for all the advice everyone. I plan on purchasing the Wes Ingrams guide as suggested. I just visited his site and downloaded a few of the free manuals he offers for diagnostic of the SPICA system .I hope to get to the car this weekend and try using a dummy TA and see what happens. Also when I stated the plugs were fouled I did mean that they were black and sooty. Spark seems good.

Once I get this sorted I hope to order a caliper rebuild kit as it seems that the sitting for many years has frozen all four calipers. I removed the calipers and had the rotors turned down but I believe they all need refreshning since once compressed and air was pushed though them individually they barely moved. Have any of you rebuilt the calipers on your cars? If so are there any tips or trick to getting a stuck piston out besides compressed air? I cant seem to get a few of them to move now that I compressed them completely.
I'll let you all know how it turn as out this weekend. Thanks again for the help and ideas this is a great resource for a new alfa owner!
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