I had a small oil seep at the base of the dipstick tube. Rather than clamp it down tighter, I ditched it. It gives me an excuse to once again use one of my many used NASCAR titanium valves I have in stock. Remember how I used one as an accelerator stop?
I started by knurling the stem so the oil would cling, maybe making it easier to read.
Then I machined an aluminum cap to fit on the stem, with a nice little recess to seal against the end of the short rubber tube carried over from the original setup that comes off the upper pan's nipple. Press-fit on the stem, and sealed with JB-Weld. That cap's barrel is measured for an interference fit on the rubber tube. That tube is now hose-clamped in place instead of using the original medieval-looking shackle. I hope that fit is tight enough.
I could have threaded the aluminum nipple on the upper pan for a screw-on dipstick, and might do that in the future, but this was easier. I didn't want to deal with Al shavings falling in the sump. If this setup still seeps, I'll be angry, not too surprised, and reaching for another hose clamp.
Weight? Measure for good measure. Then I drilled holes at the perimeter for the retention spring. So the dipstick is actually .4 grams lighter than what's shown on the scale. But I forgot to include the stainless hose clamp that's securing the rubber tube onto the nipple.
I could have cut the valve head down smaller, but I wanted the full glory of Ti down there, and it serves as a heat-sink. The black coating on the valve is DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon). It's of no use in this application beyond bragging rights. Like this: How many titanium dipsticks have that DLC coating? None. There are no other DLC-coated titanium dipsticks in this solar system.