Pics of a Duetto racer buildup - Page 34 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #496 of 764 (permalink) Old 09-10-2014, 06:15 PM
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Please don't be so testy. You do such lovely work we're all jealous.

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post #497 of 764 (permalink) Old 10-31-2014, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry about my recent comments. I know that sometimes I lack a social filter, and may be overly sensitive. I need to view this car less like a family member and more like a thing. I shouldn't have lashed out at Pete like that, and I'm apologizing to him separately in a private message. It's not my place to banish anyone from a public thread, and everyone is welcome to comment. I'd like to keep this thread light, positive, and maybe sometimes entertaining.

69 Spider, 2L, street; pursuit of happiness
69 Spider, 1.8L, race; happiness of pursuit
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post #498 of 764 (permalink) Old 10-31-2014, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Happy Halloween. As I have reviewed this entire thread from the beginning, it appears that I usually post a project update on Halloween, so I'll keep the trend going.

Lately, I've been working on the oil lines that go to the remote filter and standalone oil cooler. When I initially built this up, I went the budget route with the house brands of hose, AN fittings, and cooler from Summit Racing. I've had chronic oil seeping and misting from the interconnects and cooler, so I decided to upgrade everything. I am now using genuine Aeroquip for the connectors, and a larger Swedish-made Setrab oil cooler. They are the oil cooler suppliers to most high-end and exotic cars. The improved quality of these parts is palpable. You could hand these pieces to your grandmother, and even she would know that they are good things.

The old oil cooler was made in Canada, and the new one is made in Sweden. It's funny how these cold weather countries are the experts and oil cooling. I would've expected these products to come out of Arizona, Egypt, or some other such place that is hotter than hell.
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post #499 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nader View Post
The old oil cooler was made in Canada, and the new one is made in Sweden.
Lol, and weird!
Pete

'71 1750 Series 2 GTV:
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post #500 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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I have to finish up the oil lines, and I want to refinish my headers (recoat them in ceramic), but I'm already thinking about the next major project. I've even been collecting some of the raw materials. I have some 7075 and 6061 alumin(i)um, a rod of grade 5 titanium, and a nice big hunk of Delrin. Big fat rod ends, too. There is more that's not pictured. Standby for a homemade sliding block!
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post #501 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 05:03 AM
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Awesome thread! A machinist myself, I loved flicking through the thread to see what you built and how you went about it.
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post #502 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Jazzy! I'm not a machinist, just a hobbyist/dilettante. The first metal chips I ever made on my machines were documented on this thread some pages back. Still learning as I go.

In the pic above, you see the rectangular tube of quarter inch walled 6061-T6. That's going to serve a couple of purposes in this project when cut down to size. For one, it's forming the mounting bracket for one end of the future titanium trailing arm. I could have used a 16mm steel bolt, but that would have been too easy. So I made a 16mm titanium pin, held in place with a circlip. Spacers center the rod end in the bracket. I'm going to bolt this bracket to a beam that will cross the chassis in place of the old t-arm.
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post #503 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-06-2014, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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I've been spending an inordinate amount of time machining the titanium bar (duh! that goes without saying) for the trailing arm. Got one side finished and threaded. I have to pause before proceeding with the other side, because I'm not exactly sure how long to make this bar.

I need to fit that beam which will be replacing the trunnion arm in order to get an accurate measurement. Alternatively, I thought about mounting the trailing arm directly to the underside's sheet metal, but haven't had a good look under the car to see how that would work.
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post #504 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-06-2014, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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This was hard, it's only half done, and it's supposed to be the easy part of this project!
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post #505 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-06-2014, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Got this in the mail today. Who's that nutty guy lurking back there behind the Porsches?

Clawing my way up past the Triumphs, trying to get a whiff of the Porsche tailpipes. If the sliding block buys me a couple of seconds per lap, I might just catch them. Especially if I was running the right tires. Look at my them, they're only 185 profile. I need me some 205s.
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post #506 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-06-2014, 11:37 PM
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Hi mate great thread and as for the racing your not last.

Current cars 1975 spyder under resto, 1973 Berlina Resto 1976 Berlina parts car 1972 GTjunior fully restored, 1 complete rolling shell spyder.exit 1989 75 T/S sold
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post #507 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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There's been a new development in my efforts to build a sliding block. So that project will be on hold. In the meantime, I lightened up the alternator tensioner/turnbuckle thing. Swiss-cheesed it real good.
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post #508 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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I resumed work on replacing the steel-braided oil lines, but then quickly remembered what a pain it is. I documented that struggle in this thread a few years and many pages ago. So I stopped after one small section. It's a project that needs to be taken in bites. So what else to do on a Seattle rainy day?...

As I alluded to, the sliding block project is on temporary hold until I get some new parts and take accurate measurements of where things should go. Nonetheless, I returned my attention to the trailing arm to finish threading the other side despite not knowing how long it should be. It's what happens when the Seattle rain keeps me indoors (in a tiny work shed) trapped with my own impatience/impulsiveness.

I figured the threads needed to be started regardless of the length, and I could just extend the threads along the body and cut it down to size if this arm turns out to be too long. I made the arm as long as my lathe would allow, so if it needs to be longer, I'm SOL without some extra-creative bracketry. The picture below shows the beginnings of thread-cutting on the Ti bar. It takes many, many light passes to eventually cut a deep enough groove that a hand-die can finish.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again; thank goodness for carbide cutting bits. Watching the shavings peel off the work piece is really satisfying. Check out that grocery bag full of Ti shavings. I have two more bags like that. I'm not sure why I'm keeping them. I love Ti. Maybe I'll use them as packing in the world's most awesome muffler.
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post #509 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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I wanted a rod end that would fit over the stock mounting pin located on the differential. It's an odd size, so I got the next biggest rod end and fabricated a sleeve fit over the pin and eliminate play. But that larger size (25mm) means that its threads need to be m25 as well. Which the Ti trailing rod arm isn't. So I made a threaded insert to reduce the rod end's hole. Really digging this whole threading-on-a-lathe operation.
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post #510 of 764 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Photo 1: Bada bing
Photo 2: Bada boom
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