S3 heater fan R/R & drain holes - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 10:29 AM
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Hmm, well I sure as heck don't have a fingers width of room, so that is some very good info you provided, thank you !!

If yours was tight with a fingers width of room, I doubt I could do mine with zero clearance

I'm just thinking out loud here, I obviously would look into this carefully before starting, but...

From the pictures I've seen it appears that the blower fan is what would prevent the bottom of the assembly from sliding out. In other words, if it weren't for the fan, the bottom would side horizontal w/o having to tilt it. in that event only a 1/16 th of an inch would be needed. So... what if one were to cut the plastic housing to allow clearance for the fan, then glue the piece back in after reassembly...

Like I said, just thinking here....

1988 Spider Graduate - "Black Beauty"
"When I see an Alfa Romeo go by, I tip my hat. " - Henry Ford 1939
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Have you heard the acronym DPO? ([email protected] Previous Owner)

Is the carpeting & under-carpet insulation still in place? Removing that might gain you a 1/2".

- - Eric
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- -~ 1981 GTV-6 ~
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 10:51 AM
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HA !!

I became the DPO the day I wired up a $2.50 toggle switch to bypass the column stalk for my headlights...



Your point is very well taken.

Yes, the carpet is present. I'll look more before I do anything drastic.

1988 Spider Graduate - "Black Beauty"
"When I see an Alfa Romeo go by, I tip my hat. " - Henry Ford 1939
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 11:10 AM
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I had less than a finger's width until I removed the carpet.

Kim - 1987 Spider Quadrifoglio (~170K original owner miles)
Huntsville, AL
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 11:14 AM
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I have removed the entire dash on both an '84 and '89 Spider. Both had A/C, but I only put the A/C back in on the '89. Not reinstalling the A/C in the '84 made it easy. Overall it is not a bad job to do. The biggest fear is breaking things, so take your time and have space to layout all the removed parts in an orderly manner. I only had a few left over screws when I was done.

My fan is on and off now, so I am in no big rush to replace it. I was hoping to dedicate time and money this winter to the suspension, but it may go into remove the dash again to replace the fan with a new one.

Larry M.
'89 Spider Veloce
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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 11:44 AM
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Steve what I would try is put 12v straight from battery to the blue wire connector (I think that is the fast speed connector?) on the housing [make sure ign. is off] then twiggle the fan with your finger thru the flap....it might just start up! Mine did!...............I got mine started this way....then stopped the motor and injected loads of WD40 thru the flap between housing and the fan so it collects at the base of the housing where the motor sits, and let it run again for 20 minutes, just from the battery.....so far still running strong!

Of course the ground wire tucked up under the passenger footwell has to be good too

Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by spiderserie4 View Post
Steve what I would try is put 12v straight from battery to the blue wire connector (I think that is the fast speed connector?) on the housing [make sure ign. is off] then twiggle the fan with your finger thru the flap....it might just start up! Mine did!...............I got mine started this way....then stopped the motor and injected loads of WD40 thru the flap between housing and the fan so it collects at the base of the housing where the motor sits, and let it run again for 20 minutes, just from the battery.....so far still running strong!

Of course the ground wire tucked up under the passenger footwell has to be good too
Thanks spiderserie4, I tried this with no luck. I would have been very happy if the fan started and pinched my finger, but alas, no luck.

First I confirmed that there was 12 volts at the motor connection with the ignition on and the fan switch on. That test returned "true". I also tested the ground connection (which is tough to get to). Then I turned off the ignition and supplied 12 volts directly to the blower motor wires, again no joy. I even tried banging on the housing hoping that maybe I would free up a stuck brush, but again no luck.

My fan turns very freely, so I've got to assume that the brushes or brush springs are the problem.

Thanks for the suggestion !!

1988 Spider Graduate - "Black Beauty"
"When I see an Alfa Romeo go by, I tip my hat. " - Henry Ford 1939
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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 04:29 PM
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Thanks for the useful info. Yesterday, I removed the whole heater unit from RHD 1975 GT Junior. Splitting the bottom section off helped me get it out without removing the glove box or centre console, but it was a battle. I will probably remove the console to make it easier to refit the fully assembled unit once I get the broken bits replaced. The motor was toasted, heater matrix a pile of rust and control valve leaky - which is why the previous owner had bypassed the whole thing. Thanks for the tip about drilling a couple of drain holes.
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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 12:28 PM
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Thanks to this thread I was able to replace my 1976 Spider's blower motor - without a dash-board-ectomy... And yes, I did drill weep holes in the bottom of the blower chamber!!
Cutting the sound insulation/carpet padding on the top of the transmission hump was necessary in order to get the new fan assembly in...

50 years from now - how are we going to restore a "classic" microprocessor based modern car?? Alfas - 1980 Spider, 1987 Milano, 1976 Spider
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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 11:35 AM
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More (!) thanks to this thread. I read this prior to tackling the (inoperative) cabin blower motor replacement job. I used my Power Probe to check the ground (good), then power the blue wire (still no fan). I stuck my finger in there and gave the fan a push (it pushed easily) and BINGO. It works now! I'm going to hot wire it ON for awhile, see how she does. VERY HAPPY ALFA OWNER RIGHT NOW.
Now on to the next project. Fix the broken, driver-seat, RF attaching pedestal, for the seat track. The weld broke at the floor. Looks like it needs to be welded from the top.

ALFA ANDY
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 01:40 PM
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Spent whole afternoon today trying to remove the heater as it was leaking.
No success so far.

First I removed the air hoses, then a one screw from the bottom part from passenger side. I failed at removing the ones at the back (near the firewall). I can't get there
I also failed to remove the front screw from driver's side - nut moves together with the screw.

I then tried to remove the whole unit. I removed top screws from passenger side, disconnected valve from the driver's and stuck there.

I need to remove copper tube from passenger side and top screw of the whole unit on the driver's side.

It's like going through hell. What's worse, I can't drive right now with disconnected tubes and I'm not sure if and when I'll reassembly everything.

Spider 2.0 - 1985
159 1.9 JTDM - 2009
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 02:18 PM
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I feel your pain. My left front nut was seized to the screw. Had to cut the screw in half with an oscillating tool in-situ.

Tom

1963 Giulia Spider (1750 engine)
1974 GTV
1991 Spider
Former: 1987 Milano Gold
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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 02:18 PM
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What about the 4 (or 5) spring clips that hold the top part of the heater box to the middle section. The 2 at the back are up against the bulkhead, getting to those is easier if the whole heater box is loose/unattached on the bulkhead - 4 nuts and large diameter washers on studs hold the top part to the bulkhead

The 2 (or 3) spring clips at the front are easier, but that depends on your console

With the clips removed I found it possible to first slide out the bottom+middle section and then remove the top section. Sliding out the bottom+middle section is easier if the top section is firmly attached to the bulkhead.

On my RHD coupe with standing pedals, I slid it out towards the passenger side footwell. I understand spiders are generally more difficult.

Good luck

1975 GT Junior with 2 litre lump
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX
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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 02:45 PM
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Yes, this job sucks. Cars with AC, suck more. Later spiders with the one piece knee bolster, suck more x2.
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ALFA ANDY
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbartosiak View Post
What's worse, I can't drive right now with disconnected tubes and I'm not sure if and when I'll reassembly everything.
you should be able to bypass the heater by joining a length of hose from the small waterpump outlet to the heater hose connection on top of the plenum. (tie the original WP hose out of the way, safe)

thats what I did when my heater dumped hot coolant on my feet whilst out on a drive
I carry a 4 ft length of heater hose now in the trunk!
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Dom - Alfa Spider 1990 S4 - formerly: Alfa 101 Sprint, 2600 Sprint, Montreal - family classics: Jensen Interceptor II, '58 Hooper RR Silver Cloud I, Shadow II, '60 Corvette.
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